BUT, there is a thing called evaporation cooling. So, depending on the humidity reading in the ambient air, wouldn't aerating also possibly cool the pond as the air that is pushed to the bottom of the pond absorbs moisture from the pond on it's way to the surface?
Not that I have done any testing on the subject, but my gut tells me that any cooling from evaporation is over taken considerably by the radiant heat from the sun and the convection heat from the ambient air at the water-to-air interface. Evaporative cooling works best in very low humidity areas and the surface of a pond would not be considered low humidity especially not in my neck of the woods.
QA, have you tried the jar test to see if the clay turbidity is due to electrical inbalance or mechanical means? If you had a denser phytoplankton bloom (18" -24" visibility and none of that due to clay turbidity) I think your O2 levels would be higher in the daytime and therefore when you ran the aerator at night you would have higher O2 levels overall than what you have now.
It's been a while since I performed a Jar test. This was from last year with a clarity of 18"...
![[Linked Image]](http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=14790&filename=Jar%20Test%20Comparisons.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=14791&filename=Jar%20Sed%20Comparisons.jpg)
If it is suspended clay...it's may just have to "be what it be". I will not be treating my pond with alum (etc). I get too much water throughput to spend the time and money on chemicals. One good rain and I have just treated the creek. I would like to hear more about electrical imbalances however. That sounds interesting! I am having a hard time understanding how a BOW that is SO connected to the earth could have an electrical imbalance...seems like a pond would be about as grounded as anything could be.
I would be interested to see what the O2 levels (and temp levels) would be if you ran the system 24/7 for a week. If you felt the water was getting too warm you could shut the system off and the water at the bottom of the pond would start cooling off pretty quickly due to the cooler soil temps surrounding the pond.
I have not done this, but have wondered the same thing. Maybe I will try this later in late summer early fall. I do recall trying to run the air 24/7 early on and found the water temps to climb above 85 and had to back off the runtimes.
