Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Muddy water Dummy's DIY guide to clearing water

I would not focus on obtaining clear water in your new pond until:
1. all the grass is well established. A fully dense grassed water shed is almost a necessity for obtaining clear minimal suspended clay water. Mud exposed shorelines also contribute significantly to wave silt-clay induced turbidity. See item 3.
2. the pond is at full pool. More than normal areas of exposed dirt embankments promote turbidity.
3. IMO stop aerating until the water becomes clear close to 2ft+ visibility. Daily aeration keeps ultra small silt-clay particles moving in the water column. How can they settle if the water mass is moved, circulated and turned over daily? At this point in the pond's condition and life span aeration is defeating the purpose of clear water. When the pond clears to your satisfaction then consider starting the aerator. New sportfish - recreation ponds generally do not really need to be aerated and circulated for the purpose of preventing fish kills because new ponds normally have a low BOD (biochemical oxygen demand). Special situations do exist. High BOD water causes oxygen shortage fish kills.
4. As long as 1 & 2 apply, alum and lime are not appropriate and cost effective. If you use alum now, conditions of 1 & 2 will reintroduce the turbidity.
To get the clearest water the quickest in a new pond, the shoreline embankments down to 3 ft deep should be lined with some sort of stone. At a minimum the down wind shoreline should have protected shorelines.

From your picture the pond looks like it still needs 14"-2ft of water to achieve full pool status.