Originally Posted By: wbuffetjr

Is the diffuser sitting on the bottom in 3' of water or suspended 3' below the surface over deeper water?

Suspended in approximately 10 feet of water, depending on the pond water level.

Originally Posted By: wbuffetjr
Can you get out on the ice and take some measurements to see how far that water is moving?

If we ever get ice thick enough to safely walk on I will take temp/DO readings on the opposite side of the pond and report. I'll note how far away from the diffuser plume the readings were taken and at what depth.

Originally Posted By: wbuffetjr

It would be interesting to see if you could make yours dome up. Run the aeration for a few hours and turn it off. Repeat the next day.

Nope, can't make a dome. I can let the ice form for a few days to a week, turn the system on and within an hour to 2 hours the hole is open.

This year unless something changes, it will be difficult to test. While we had sub zero temps in November, the whole pond opened up again in early Dec. We had single digit temps starting early Sat. am, warming up to the teens in the afternoon and the same temps again yesterday, but by the upcoming wekend and continuing until Feb we are supposed to have highs in the upper 30's and lows in the upper 20's, so I don't know how much ice will form. I'll go get a picture in a little bit of the hole that is open from running the system continually for the past 36 hours. The system was started when there was a couple of inches of ice on the pond and a few inches of snow, and the temps have been in the 10-20 degree range for the past 36 hours.

If the problem with your pond is the dome forming overnight because of only having juice available during the day have you thought about a battery bank to run it at night? I really think moving the diffusers shallower will help eliminate any doming issues. You will see what I mean with my picture.


3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).