Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Muddy water SE OH: poor clarity, is bloom healthy plankton?

I would like your input about the appearance and health of my pond.

Please excuse my clumsiness and repeat posts. I am trying to learn how and where to post threads, and I am still trying to learn how to post photos.

My 22 year old SE Ohio clay bottom pond still appears muddy with poor clarity after removing fish to reduce the potential for clay disturbance, adding aeration and bacteria, administering 1600 lbs ag. Lime, 24 gal aluminum sulfate and hydrated lime (details below).

The clarity improved from 5" to 12-15" per secchi disk readings.

5/29/23 615 PM
Secchi 12", pH 7.6, Total Alkalinity 60-70 ppm, Calcium Hardness 60 ppm, TDS 89, EC 178, T 70.5 f, and No phosphate, nitrate, ammonia per titration.
Two gallon sample jars: one placed in in-direct light, one covered with dark towel.

5/30/23 815 AM
Secchi 12", pH 7.4, Total Alkalinity 70, TDS 83, EC 166, T 66.3

The LMB, BG and other wildlife appear healthy. The increased light appears to have triggered a brown phytoplankton bloom with zooplankton moving around in the water. There is no unpleasant aroma.

Here is a brief review:
The pond was built in 2001 on a ridge top in SE Ohio with heavy clay soil and a perched water table. It is seep/spring fed and a small forested watershed, mostly oaks. The edges of the pond are well covered with native plants.

It is 0.75 acre ft with 488,000 gal (11 ft center depth, avg 4 ft depth). It can also be said that it is 0.202 surface acre or about 1/5th acre.

The pond developed poor clarity a few years ago; sometimes a deep coffee with cream color, Secchi 5".

I invested in various water testing gear and kept records; nothing stood out as being out of the normal levels.

Numerous Jar tests: Very little clay / sediment / other settled out in in-direct light and/or darkness during >24 hour periods.

Experiments with alum, gypsum, lime, epsom salts revealed colloidal clay issues.
Alum was most effective so we continued our testing to determine minimal needed dose, along with h. lime to keep pH in safe zone.

I removed possible causes of mechanical clay disturbance. It did not improve the clarity, reduce the turbidity but I wanted to reduce the potential for anything to kick up floc after an Alum treatment.

June 2019 Bowfishers removed a very large grass carp: 4 ft long, 53 lbs.

June 2022 aeration added for the first time when the off-grid solar electricity system was enlarged: linear diaphragm pump with a diffuser membrane.
(I chose this type of pump due to my limited supply of off-grid electricity. It is positioned upright on crates approx 7 ft from the bottom to reduce back pressure and extend the life of the pump. I know that it is less than ideal but it appears to be de-stratifying the pond based upon even temperature readings. I have not seen any adverse effects, unintended consequences.)

July 2022 I added “go clear” and “muck stopper” aerobic bacteria.

Aug. 2022 I removed two large channel catfish. (There is still one in the pond as of May 2023.)

Sept. 2022 I added 800 lb agricultural Lime (calcium carbonate).
April 2023 I added another 800 lb ag lime.

May, 2023 I sprayed 12 gallons of liquid aluminum sulfate onto the surface of the pond, with increased amounts in the deeper areas. The alum was applied in sections with close monitoring of the pH and the hydrated dolomitic lime (calcium magnesium hydroxide) was distributed in swaths to keep the pH close to neutral, and provide fish, etc., escape paths.

The chemistry remained good and the secchi disk measurements improved with clarity going from 5" to 12-15" but the goal was 18" clarity.

I was told to add another alum/h. lime treatment if the first did not work. I administered another 12 gallons of alum and hydrated lime without improvement.

But, I was later told that the aluminum sulfate / hydrated lime treatment needs to be administered in one full dose, approximately 200 lb / acre foot.

So, I am back at the drawing board.

Thank you.

[img]https://share.icloud.com/photos/044e2NAO1veWh7zBHrmr647Ew[/img]

[img]https://share.icloud.com/photos/044e2NAO1veWh7zBHrmr647Ew[/img]

Still trying how to share photos here.

another photo test...
I give up.
Let me know if you can see the photos, want to see the photos and/or have any tips.

Post the photos to Imgur, then you can link to them here and they will show up.

Thx - will try again later

Hey, Hey ... looks like I finally figured out how to get photos uploaded here.

Thanks for your guidance and patience.

5/31/23 1030 AM The Secchi reading was still 12" clarity, pH 7.4, Total Alkalinity 60 ppm, Total Dissolved Solids 89 ppm, Electrical conductivity 178 um, and temperature from surface down to 10 ft is running 69-70 F.


5/29/23 6 pm
The Secchi Disk clarity was 5" before the ag lime, then alum/h. lime treatments. The clarity went to 15" but then decreased to 11-12" with this bloom.

I was shooting for at least 18" Secchi Disk clarity; should I treat with more alum and hydrated lime?

Is this a Phytoplankton / Zooplankton Bloom due to increased light?

The Nutrient levels always read "0" with the API phosphate, nitrate, ammonia titration tests.

It seems to be a healthy situation, except for the poor clarity and a less than desirable swimming situation.

The LMB and BG appear healthy and come up to feed on floating fish food and dried mealworms.
(I'm glad they are still in there. I couldn't see them when the pond was more muddy with less clarity.)


5/29/23 6 pm 2 gallon Jar samples collected


5/29/23 630 pm One jar - indirect light; one jar covered with a dark towel; left undisturbed.


5/31/23 1030 AM approximately 40.5 hours later; small amount of sediment settled on bottom of both jars but not much difference between jars except there are more moving critters in the sample on the left, the indirect light sample.


5/31/23 The appearance of the pond from the upper deck of the house. There is an aeration diffuser in the middle, positioned approximately 8 ft from the bottom at the central 11 ft depth. It is elevated to keep the back pressure on the linear diaphragm pump at ~3-3.5 psi.

( I have a linear diaphragm pump (not ideal) because of my limited off-grid solar electricity supply. It runs 24/7/365 and doesn't appear to be causing problems. The temperature is now running a consistent 69-70 F down to the bottom. There is also a DIY aeration soaker hose wrapped around a tire rim close to the shore to bleed off some of the air pressure.


5/30/23 This is a view from across the pond, the off-grid passive solar cabin and the solar modules. It was an undeveloped, forested site when I moved here 23 years ago. It has been quite the adventure and I love having the pond out front.


5/30/23 The view from the dock, across the pond toward the West. I live with gratitude and thanksgiving.


March 2023 prior to the administration of the 2nd 800 lbs of agricultural lime. The Secchi Disk clarity was down to 5" at this point.

The pond has been easy to maintain for most of its life. It became muddy with poor clarity a few years ago and I have been rather obsessed with slow and careful pond management processes for a long time.

I finally got to the point of adding 1600 lbs of agricultural lime, then later the 24 gallons liquid alum with hydrated dolomitic lime in two doses and I was hoping to be done with it for awhile.

I'm not surprised or concerned about the brown slime bloom, but I sense it probably still needs a full dose of alum with h. lime.

What do you think?

I appreciate all of the input that I have already received and look forward to reading your input as well.

Thank you.

Kathy in SE Ohio

I would try Gypsum. Here Gypsum is about $160 per ton and that should be more than enough to clear up a pond that size. Gypsum doesn't work as well as Alum, but Alum here is $50 per 50lb bag. Plus with Gypsum, you don't have to monitor PH levels. To apply gypsum, I just throw a handful at a time into the prop wash of my electric 5 hp motor, it dissolves instantly.

Thank you!

I included gypsum in my initial jar tests.
Thanks for the reminder; I will add it to the list of possibilities.
Kathy

What is the longest time that you let your pond water set in a gallon jug to watch for settling of solids?

Hi!

We left the two original gallon jars sit for 1.5 weeks at the beginning of this adventure; very little settling of solids, water still discolored and murky.

I can probably find the photos from that time. Those original jar tests prompted us to begin our coagulant jar tests.


The photo below is of the most recent jar test: 4 days of settling time (the jar on the right had a towel covering it for 40.5 hrs, then sitting with indirect light for an additional 2 days).



Thank you!
Kathy

Hi Bill,

Thank you for your response.

I have enjoyed reading the linked articles below and am currently looking for info about the potential silicate content in the perched groundwater here (SE Ohio).

Any input, including clues for investigation, will be appreciated.

Best Wishes,

2009 Test Report for Lake Vilbig: Achnanthidium minutissimum

2007: Diatoms from the genus Achnanthidium ...

June 2019: removed the 4 ft, 53 lb Grass Carp to reduce mechanical disturbance and to try to get native submerged and emergent plants growing again.



2021 added aeration and "Go Clear" and "Muck Stop".


FYI from the manufacturer:
“MuckStop all-natural tablets are composed of 6 strains of beneficial bacteria, developed in conjunction with our team of experts from the fields of commercial aquaculture and crop science, to bring the best results to your pond or lake.
At the bottom of the pond, the bacteria contained in the tablets will consume organic matter and release exogenous enzymes that will target accumulated sludge and prevent its formation.
Our proprietary blend includes the following Bacillus strains at a concentration of 3 Billion colony forming units per tablet. These strains, isolated from nature, represent no pathogenic hazard to plants, animals, or humans and are classified as Bio-Safety Level 1 microorganisms:
Bacillus licheniformis
Bacillus pumilus
Bacillus amyloliquefaciens
Bacillus polymyxa
Bacillus subtilis (2 strains)
The bacteria have been selected not only for their environmental performance, but also for their capacity to have an outstanding shelf life and tolerance to tableting conditions. Key benefits of our MuckStop tablets:
· Reduce the muck layer on the pond bottom
· Delay dredging costs
· Create a healthier ecosystem for wildlife”

Sept 2022 Removed 2 large Channel Catfish to help reduce the potential for mechanical sediment/clay disturbance. There may still be one large Channel Catfish in the pond.

I may desire this pond to have more than 12" clarity with a prettier blue-green color but do I need it?
June 2 photo: Noon


I'm thinking the pond may be just fine given the water chemistry results, the apparent health of the fish and the information I am reading about diatoms. The photos of the Diatom blooms on p. 17 of this Field Guide from Kentucky look identical to what I am seeing on my pond.

The information in this Kentucky booklet titled The Good, the Bad & the Managed: How to Identify and Manage Algae Scums in Agricultural and Residential Ponds may also be of interest to others.
"The Good, The Bad & The Managed: How to Identify... "

I will continue to welcome input but am taking a pause in my active management efforts to see what happens with this potential diatom bloom. I am so tempted to unpack my microscope and will return with photos and information if I succumb to the desire.

I would stake my reputation that your pond is not predominated by a diatom bloom. Algae / phytoplankton blooms come and go (wax and wane) due to nutrient variability and fluctuations; yours appear to be a persistent problem. Brown hue algae blooms normally do not have the color of your pond. Your color has a mud -dirt color. I can microscopically look at your water and verify the type of particulates. My guess at this point is detritus, silt, and clay is the main cause. Your current problem is not an algae scum type of problem that is referred to in the Kentucky booklet you reference above. You do not have a scum. You have particulates that are present in the entire water column, top to bottom,

What would be the cause of the history of pond only developing the problem a few years ago? I wouldn't think the soil is much different than before. It might be good to explore this line of thought. Early on, was there a treatment that affected water chemistry? One thought, maybe it lost its earlier alkalinity over the years and the recent liming will help ... given time. Another thought, maybe mechanical disturbance is worse than thought, eg maybe other species that OP isn't aware of? Yet this wouldn't explain two weeks and a jar not settling.

Anyways, good luck and keep us posted about progress.

Thank you very much Bill.

I am therefore leaning toward another full dose of dry alum and hydrated lime as Rex recommends.

I am however interested in getting you a sample to look at under your microscope.

Please send me a pm with more info about such a venture?

"What would be the cause of the history of pond only developing the problem a few years ago?"

I figure the Extremely large grass carp and big channel catfish stirring up the colloidal clay and particles.

"I wouldn't think the soil is much different than before. It might be good to explore this line of thought."

Nope but colloidal clay has a negative charge, bounces off other particles and stays in suspension for a very long time unless something is introduced to cause them to flocculate and drop.

"Early on, was there a treatment that affected water chemistry?"

No, nothing that I am aware of but the pond is fed by a perched water table as well as the surface water.

" One thought, maybe it lost its earlier alkalinity over the years and the recent liming will help ... given time. "

The alkalinity was running at 50 ppm before I added any additional lime. But, as you mentioned, the 800 lb last fall and the 800 lb ag lime earlier this spring may help given time. The alkalinity is now running up between 60 - 70 ppm, calcium hardness the same. Total dissolved solids and Electrical conductivity is also up.

"Another thought, maybe mechanical disturbance is worse than thought, eg maybe other species that OP isn't aware of? Yet this wouldn't explain two weeks and a jar not settling."

Yep, I just got in touch with my neighbors who like to catfish to see if they will come up and get the one channel cat that remains in the pond. Many don't think it would be causing the muddy water but it is big and my pond is very small.

Also, the clay here is intense and seems like it may have the high potential for colloidal particles so it isn't surprising that it isn't settling, especially since I probably didn't use enough alum, or in a proper full treatment to drop it all out yet.

So, now the plan is to get the remaining big catfish out then go at it again with more alum and hydrated lime.

I'll keep this post up-dated.

thanks for your interest and input!

Kathy

Up-date: Clarity is up to 18-20" and I am currently a happy camper. Many thanks to everyone who has provided input in this adventure. I look forward to continuing to participate in this forum and appreciate all you share about your respective ponds!

Here is an up-date with photos if you're interested:

6/16/23



We received a hard rain, 0.23”, last night. I am not seeing any indications of clay/sediment runoff along the edges.

The aerator has been off for 8 days.

The water is a nice clean olive green with 19-20” Secchi clarity.

AM Taylor pH 7.4-7.5
Meter: TDS 85, EC 172, T 66.5 f.

All Chem running consistent; assuming alkalinity and hardness about 60 -70 ppm based on previous tests.

Jar Tests, photos below:

Jar # 1 collected 17 days ago when pond had brown surface patches

Jar # 2 collected 6 days ago after brown material was gone, pond clearing

Jar # 3 on the right side in the two photos below: clay was collected along the slope of the pond, No super fine particles, settled out immediately. Discarded.





Jar # 4 (below) was clear tap rainwater plus 10 gr clay sediment from perched water table interface.
Shook vigorously and left to settle ~ 2 days ago (45 hrs).
The Water still murky, very little settling so I assume it is an example of the colloidal clay I have on this site.
(I found some very interesting articles about colloidal clay and colloidal humus/organics. Let me know if you are interested and I'll share the links.)




I have ruled out surface runoff as a causative factor behind my turbid pond given our heavy rain last night.

I still don’t know if the perched water table introduces additional colloidal particles via the seeps since the soil is not saturated, ie the perched groundwater isn't fully recharged yet.

The aerator might have kept things stirred up; it has been off for 8 days.

It is currently positioned ~ 8 ft from the bottom to reduce pump back flow pressure. It was producing rather intense surface bubbling with ripples. I am going to lower it for improved aeration, possibly mitigate turbidity issues, even if it shortens the life on the linear diaphragm pump (hi blo 100 LL)

But I’m actually wondering if the application of 1600 lb ag lime, 24 gallons liquid alum and the hydrated lime is finally having an effect.
It is one of the reasons my whole approach to my turbid pond issues has progressed so slowly; sometimes patience is needed for the feedback loops to reveal outcomes after an intervention.

My goal was to achieve at least 18" secchi disk clarity, and not much more so as to avoid an explosion of algal or other growth.
So, I am sitting tight, thankful that I am not experiencing a problematic algal or other bloom; but I also know it could be right around the corner.



I suspect the pond will get muddy again, other issues may arise, but for now… I am going to enjoy the pond without the trouble shooting and rather obsessive measurements, etc.

We shall see.

Thank you very much for your input.
Let me know if you have any other suggestions.


Thank you very much!

Kathy

PS. additional photos for fun:

My neighbors come to fish and play.


I found out that muddy water, poor clarity, can influence the color (pigmentation) of the fish. Very interesting.

I once caught a BGxRES that was very dark on one side and very light, like the bass you showed, on the other. On close examination, it was missing one eye. I hypothesized that visual cues directed the chromataphores coloring the fish.

Very cool!