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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 17
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There were 2 possible pond locations on our 30 acres. The 1st location and most prefered did'nt pan out. We dug a 7 foot deep hole in hopes of finding ground water (catails in the area), but the hole was bone dry. The conclusion was the catails survived on water that is held by a shallow clay layer in this low laying depression. Anyway, on to plan B. We have a small stream that flows on the other side of the property. The watershed running into this stream is to great to locate a pond directly on. The neighbor excavation contractor placed a 3/4 acre pond directly on the stream and spring rains and snow melts were slowly silting the pond in (even with a small retension pond above it). His solution was to drain and remove the silt from the pond and then reroute the stream around the pond. He built a valved inlet into the pond to control the flow during the spring runoff. My thought is to replicate his layout on our property (1/4 mile downstream of his pond). can anyone give advice on this type of layout and pit falls to avoid? My thought is to use his experience on or pond (he is doing the digging as well). For turn over the pond will have a piped inlet and piped outlet. Should we include a pond drain? Does a pond flow control valve exist? (one that would automatically close during heavy rains and open as the water velocity slowed).

Thanks, Chris

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 Quote:
We dug a 7 foot deep hole in hopes of finding ground water (catails in the area), but the hole was bone dry.
What would prevent you from using the preferred location and relying on run-off as your water supply? Do you have the watershed in that location? Is the soil suitable for water retention? If the answers to those two questions are YES, then why bother with the second location? Sounds expensive, time consuming and more of a hassle to go with Plan B.

Consider yourself lucky though if Plan B is your only option. You've got a neighbor who has already done it. Learn from him.


0.6 acre pond / 13' max depth / Bonham, TX
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Thanks for your reply. There is a possibility that plan A still may work, but I'm not willing to take the risk. As you mentioned, the watershed is not adequate to fill the pond and this location would rely on some ground water influence. There is a chance that we would uncover a ground water source during the excavation, but the fact that we dug the deephole in the center of the cattails and it did not produce made us leary. The plan B location is a low lying area along the creek. After the trees are plucked with the trackhoe, the contractor is going to dig a deep trench and re route the stream in it. This is in an effort to drain off the saturated low lying area. After a few weeks the excavation of the pond will begin. I will be able to give more details on the the layout after the trees are gone and we are able to survey the site. Right now I'm envisioning a dike that is abour 2/3 the size of the pond. Mainly I'm looking for ideas of folks that have designed a similiar pond. Suggestions on flow (both in and out). Seems like we could go with a natural spill way vs. a piped set up if we are able to control the flow. One of my initial thought was 2 ponds. The main pond being just downstream of a "silt pond". But I think the costs will be to high compared tot he layout the neighbor has. And yes, I do feel lucky that we have a site at all. I've heard plenty of horror stories to appreciate our pond site.
Thanks, Chris

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Lavarock64,
You asked for suggestions and one comes to mind.
Build the pond adjacent to the stream, perhaps in the low lying area you mentioned.
Run a single pipe to the stream on a flat grade, about 1 foot below where you want water level.
In the stream find a natural pool, or build a coffer dam that creates a small pool at the same elevation you want your water level in the pond. The inlet for your pipe goes into this pool a foot under water level.
The single pipe will fill and maintain the level in the pond. During periods of high flow in the stream the water level in the pond will rise, but all that water won't be circulated through the pond, avoiding siltation.
If the pool in the stream has a tendency to go dry perhaps an anti-backflow valve could be added to the pipe. The piping may be cheaper than a conventional pond.


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zh Kent-
Nice idea, an anti backflow valve would come in handy with that set-up. What is a coffer damn? With your described layout, I'm not sure if the silty water during a peak run-off event is enough to worry about. Ideally, no silt is the way to go, wich is why I was wondering if an automatic flow valve existed. The stream some times dries up during the summer, but I've seen the same stream over flow the road and a 2 foot culvert pipe. Duringing that event the contractor that has the pond said the stream spilled over the inlet to the pond as well as flowed over the dike (piped outlet).
Thanks, Chris

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An easy coffer dam that someone on the forum has used was to stack several bags of concrete (just leave it in the bag) across the stream to create a pool. The water flows over the top of this type deal.
The top of the coffer dam will be the level of your pond pool. The water it holds in the stream will equalize to the same level in your pond through the pipe.
I suggested putting the pipe a foot under water level thinking that might be deep enough to avoid freezing.
Fix it so the stream can't get into the pond during flooding (except for the pipe).
With no water flowing through the pond there will be practically no siltation.


Make it look easy,
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