Pond Boss Magazine
https://www.pondboss.com/images/userfiles/image/20130301193901_6_150by50orangewhyshouldsubscribejpeg.jpg
Advertisment
Newest Members
Shotgun01, Dan H, Stipker, LunkerHunt23, Jeanjules
18,451 Registered Users
Forum Statistics
Forums36
Topics40,902
Posts557,119
Members18,452
Most Online3,612
Jan 10th, 2023
Top Posters
esshup 28,420
ewest 21,475
Cecil Baird1 20,043
Bill Cody 15,112
Who's Online Now
4 members (Fishingadventure, RogersTailgate, jpsdad, anthropic), 831 guests, and 192 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 3 of 4 1 2 3 4
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Matt,
Won't the squirrel have no problem climbing the channel posts you use to support the boxes?

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 134
Likes: 5
W
Junior Member
Offline
Junior Member
W
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 134
Likes: 5
I'm a new member as of today, what a great site! I just wanted to comment on the Wooduck house information as I have "been there and done that". If you place your houses on trees you will learn the hard way that its a mistake. By "hard way" let me share what I mean. Nothing gets you from the top of a ladder to the bottom faster then opening a wooduck house with a coon in it! "been there done that" saved ware and tear on the ladder steps as I didn't use them goin down! \:D That tree had one of my "sure fire" coon stoppers on it which was to wrap the tree with sheet aluminum. Closer observation revealed the muddy paw prints some how going up! What I have now for all my houses is a 10 foot 2" dia. galvinized pipe pounded in the mud over water. Then I put a 4 foot piece of a 2 1/2" pvc pipe over that under the house. The pvc rest on another small piece of pvc that gets bolted to the pipe. This way the pvc spins on the pipe so its hard to climb. I mount a floor flange to the bottom of the box and just screw it on top the pole! I have never found any sign of any preditor getting to one since. I do find the owls every year, in one house or another, seems they like a new veiw. Last spring the owls hatched a pair of little guys in one! Lastly, 3" high x 4" wide hole is best and I have had ducks in several size houses I like the size posted here best. Its not cheap or easy but its worth it when you see them fuzz balls following mom.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Woodster,
Welcome, my friend. Excellent first post. Thanks for bringing your expertise and sharing it. I look forward to more "been there, done that" advice, particularly on the wetland and waterfowl propagation side of Pond Boss.

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 844
B
bz Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
B
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 844
Woodster, I do about the same thing with my wood duck houses. But guess what, the flying squirrels still get in. I've found nests and I've seen the little guys sail from the nearest tree, some times 100 feet, and land right on the side of the house. Can't win.


Gotta get back to fishin!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Alrighty, as promised...one bat house.
I buzzed the www to narrow the design options to something that was consistently used and easy to make at the workbench. I had some leftover 3/8" exterior plywood siding and pine 1-by stock, so the final design and size pretty much got dictated by existing inventory. The out-to-out dimensions: 19" wide, 34" hi, 4.250" deep. It is a essentially a big box with 2 slide-in panels that create 3 separate 7/8" deep chambers. All surfaces are potential for roosting and have been scored about 1/16" deep with a radial arm saw so the critters can crawl and hang on.
-
-
This is the 2 slide-in panels. The bottoms have been painted to provide some weather resistance as the tenants wipe off their bat feet. The balance of the unpainted panel will be slid up and tucked inside the weatherproof box.

-
The small blocks attached to the panels are milled to a dimension and shape that allow them to not only slide along the adjacent panel during installation, but they will maintain the 7/8" gap between panels if there is any warping.
-
-
The panels are slipped into their respective tracks routed into the inside face of the side panels of the box. In this pic, they are slid about 1/2 way in.

-
The SS screws will be buzzed in when the panels are completely inserted. They will pass thru the side panel, the center-line of the routed panel groove, and miss the panels just below them. These screws will provide support so the panels don't slide out AND a quick and easy way to remove the panels should the box or panels ever need maintanance.
-
-
The finished product

-
The permanent back panel of the house extends about 6" lower to provide a landing pad. The entire interior surface of the back panel and the front panel are also lightly grooved for bat-traction. In essence, there are a total 6 grooved panel surfaces creating 3 separate 7/8" compartments, providing a dry and cozy bat mosh-pit. The entire exterior is primed and finish coated with flat black latex. The 1/2" slot across the front panel is recommended to provide some heat control for this, the sun-facing compartment. I was concerned for blowing rain that might eventually compromise the unpainted interior, so I caulked and screwed on a drip cap over the vent crack.

-
The mount is beefed up with a pair of 1" thick treated blocks, glued and screwed horizontally across the back of the house. A 3/8" SS tee-nut is embedded from within the box, thru the back panel; one at the top mount block and one at the bottom mount block. A pair of 3/8" SS hex bolts will crank 'er down to the bat pole.
-
-
The real issue is going to be mounting the unit. It has to be a min of 12' above the ground, or in my case, the water. Like the Wood Duck boxes, it is also kinda heavy (the WD boxes are alot lower, so no issue). I bought a length of 2" square tubing and cut it to length. It is primed and painted and the mounting holes are pre-drilled. I plan to bolt it to one of the unused 4 x 4 treated pole units that is embedded in concrete in about 2' of wetland water at normal pool. I fear, tho, that the box is gonna be like a kite when it gets windy. The stout treated 4 x 4 base may be overtaxed by the tall kite fulcrum; we'll see. Worse comes to worse, we can move it over to the building pad and use the rest of the 2" tubing, embedded in another concrete-filled post hole.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
...my own quote, from pg 3
 Quote:
We have 8 poles totally installed. 4 of them have the completed WD boxes installed. I still have to design and install predator guards; fill ya in when we get there.
We're there.
I keep thinkin' I gotta be nuts. It's 15 degrees, the wind is honkin', and I'm going to spend quality time with my new predator guards. Donna-ski declined my generous offer to join me. Smart girl, me thinks.
So, I pre-fab'd the guards in the basement from panels of galvanized steel. I rolled up a blank into a tube and pop-riveted it together. The result is a ho-made galvanized stove pipe, 12" dia x 4 ft long. I also pre-fab'd the covers for the top. More galvanized sheet stuff. Essentially, a 12" dia blank with eight tabs around the circumference that will be bent downward and sheet metal screwed to the top of the tube. A 3-1/2" square hole is cut into the center of this cap blank to slip over the 4 x 4 treated pole.

-
I removed the top 1/2 of the pole assembly, splitting it at the hinge, and slipped the tube over the bottom pole section and slipped the tube-cap blank up onto the top section.

-
Then I re-assembled the pole and drilled/screwed on the tube-cap on-site. Eight sheet metal screws, one screw per tab on the tube-cap.
-
-
Next, a way to push the tube assembly up to the top of the pipe and keep it there. The 3-1/2" square hole in the tube-cap will keep the top centered and stabilized, but I had to come up with a quick and easy way to stablilize the bottom of the tube (to keep it from banging in the wind...ref: Davidson Blue bird scare mechanism) AND keep the tube up high on the pole.
-
Cake! About 12" up from the bottom of the tube I drilled 2 holes x 1/4" dia. They are 180 degrees apart (opposite each other) and perpendicular to the 4 x 4 support pole underneath. Thru each hole, I slipped in a 1/4" x 5" SS lag screw with a SS washer. I reached up underneath the tube with a pre-cut pc of 1/2" x 4" long PVC pipe spacer, slid the lag screw thru it, and screwed the lag into the 4 x 4. No drill; I just gave the lag screw a solid rap or two with a hammer to force-start them and a wratchet snugs 'em down. I'm hopin' 2 of these Lag-PVC spacer units will do it. It sure seemed stable.
A view looking directly up from inside the tube. The very top looks like daylight, but it is the camera flash reflection off of the interior side of the galvanized tube cap at the top; the sheet metal screws that hold the cap on are visible.


Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 823
M
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
M
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 823
Brettski:

I've not had any coons shinny up either pole yet...however a squirrel managed to (many times, I suppose) jump that 5 foot gap from the hedge tree nearby...I'll have to give those branches a trimming. If he's still willing to jump down 8 feet and try to land on the roof of that box...it's all his.

Those braces are kinda U-shaped...maybe that's why coons have climbed up there, yet. It's also about 7 feet up to the box right now from dry land. It'll be in the water when (if?) the pond ever fills. :rolleyes:


In a lifetime, the average driver will honk 15,250 times. My wife figures I'm due to die any day now...



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
...and a half dozen Peterson design cedar Bluebird houses.
-

-
Yeah, I broke down and paid for the cedar. No regrets. After putting more time into priming and painting the WD boxes and the Bathouse than it took to build 'em, I decided to experiment with the right wood for the job. Polyurethane glue and galv finish nails outta the Porter Cable nail-gun...cake. Actually, I spent more time altering the construction details to eliminate use of 2 x 4 stock as a frame, building them entirely out of 1 x stock. The original plans are a stock pattern and design with field-tested performance. I swiped my copy from the USGS website .
Next step is installation. I'm thinkin' about using 1" conduit with the same predator guard I used on the WD boxes. We'll see...a little time to think whilst I wait for the thaw.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
...a little pond critter update.
-
-
D-ski and I have been installing bird housing like we have a government grant. I hope the prospective residents show up for the open house.
Last December, we installed the eight 4 x 4 posts for houses and nesting structure. Four of them were used for the wood duck nesting boxes. I originally planned to install the bat house on one post, but I have scrapped that installation plan for fear that the post will not be strong enough to support the structure (it will be installed in the building pad area a little later this spring). This leaves four unused posts in the soon-to-be wetland area.
Have ya ever heard of Mallard factories? I hadn't...'til now. I got the plans and inspiration from the Delta Waterfowl website . Of course, their plan was just too dang crude and simple, so I bumped it a couple of notches. The basic nesting structure, tho, is to spec.
-
-
I cut a pc of old green treated 2 x 6 to 30" long and drilled a 1/2" hole in the center to lag it to the top of the 4 x 4 post in the pond. A couple of 1/4" holes were drilled at each end of this 2 x 6 to secure the 1/4" x 1.500" circular bar stock brackets I fab'd.

-
-
We pre-fab'd the actual nest tube in the garage at home. It is made out of one pc of galvanized hardware cloth, 1/2" squares, 36" wide x 7 feet long. See the website link above for details of construction. We are fortunate to have good friends in Jackie and Rebecca. They operate a fairly substantial farm around the corner and donated the straw and hay required to complete the nesting tubes. The tube is wired to the brackets securely with stainless steel wire.

-
-
Flip up the hinged section and install the stainless bolt pin and tighten 'er up. A few sheet metal screws and a couple of stainless support lags and the predator guard is in place.

-
-
Two Mallard factories later...

-
-
The water level in the above pic has another 2-1/2 feet to go to get to normal pool. It will be just short of the bottom of the predator guards. I have to get back in there with the chain saw before it gets alot higher. There are a couple of scrubby trees that are too close to the nesting structures. HERE IS MY QUESTION: If the water is another 2-1/2 feet deep and runs well back into the woods, what critters do I fear leaping from the trees down to the nesting structures, then swimming back. Most of the trees are a a good 20 - 30 feet back. Do squirrels swim?

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 347
B
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
B
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Most animals can swim if needed be..............



To Dam or not to dam

That isn't even a question
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 264
F
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
F
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 264


Pond Boss subscriber ever since I joined the forum. Thanks Bob!
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,239
R
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
R
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,239
I was weed eating in the back yard about 20 feet from the back door and a Duck flew out of the tall weeds directly in front of my trimmer mower.
Turns out the morher has nested next to my baldcypress in the back yard. I left the tall weeds around the nest. I'm hoping my dogs don't discover it before they hatch. It's amazing what turns up when you live on a pond.



The road goes on forever and the party nevers end...............................................
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
G
GW Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
G
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
We're meeting with the pond builder tomorrow and I'm thinking about something similar to Brettski which I'll call plan C.

Plan A is a 4 acre pond with what I believe to be a fairly traditional contour.

Plan B at full pool would be something like 7 acres. The contractor previously expressed doubts about that choice. I think one reason is that much of the additional area would be fairly shallow, maybe less than 2 feet on average without substantial excavation. If we excavate this area to a deeper level then I believe we get into issues of water supply for this volume of water. Also this would probably be pretty costly.

Plan C, which is at this point only in MY head, is to build the dam at the higher level, but not to excavate the shallow area, and to leave many or all of the trees. Most of the shallows would be in the narrow portion of the pond where the main run-off enters it. It would roughly be a triangle about 150 feet on each bank and about the same distance across the pond.

In a normal weather pattern the shallows would be covered almost all year. With the current drought it would be dry. My understanding is that many types of trees can tolerate some minimal flooding for months at a time if they have alternating dry spells. There are tulip poplars, sweetgums, water oaks, and some pines. Many of these trees are constantly wet already, in absence of drought conditions. Since I can't count on future dry periods (hopefully), I was wondering about installing an alternate spillway for a lower pool level that would leave the shallows dry. That way if the rain was steady again I could open this other spillway and give the trees the dry period they need to survive.

I'm curious what effects raising and lowering the level once or twice a year would have on the banks that have been rimmed. Could this have some benefits? Also would what I've described make a useful habitat for land and pond creatures, one or both?

If this were my pond only I might wait and do more research, but this is Cindy's pond (and money) and she doesn't want to wait. My little pond will be more straight forward. I think.



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Boy, I sure like that "C" plan.
I know that there are varying forum attitudes on the NRCS in Georgia, but maybe this is where alot of the answers lie. To me, as we are going to do, I'm letting it flood and if they die...they die. In fact, I expect that they will. My area, tho, is WAY smaller that 2 acres. You are now toying with creating a wetland, which is where you have to make a conscious decision if you plan on involving the NRCS. The downside is going higher profile with the guvmint; make very sure you know the stakes. The upside is that they should not only be able to help you with your vegetation questions, but creating a 2 ac wetland is what trips their trigger. You might be able to get funding to do it. BUT, you need to research and understand the ramifications of their involvement. I would check into it, doing my best to remain as anonymous and low on the radar as possible.

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
G
GW Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
G
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
Thanks Brettski. I don't think working with the gubmint is in the cards for this one, but I recognize there are advantages. I don't think Cindy will have the patience to jump through all of the hoops though and it's her piece of the property.

Have you heard of anyone who designed two different levels of spillway?

I wish I knew more about fish behavior. Would there be an advantage to have a shallow area to flood for spawns or in certain weather, etc? Wish I had more time to research this too.



Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,025
Likes: 1
B
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
B
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,025
Likes: 1
I have a similar situation that occurs naturally, with the shallow end rising and falling. The sweet gums will eventually take over, or worse, chinese tallow trees will establish. Also willows. They are near impossible to get rid of if established. Just be ready to monitor it closely and do necessary harvesting. I would leave the water level to nature and let establish what will live in the environment. As the silt builds up in later years, much flora will develop.
On second thought, maybe to be able to hold in more water will help keep some species under control.


Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
check out Agridrain . Good folks, good products and service.

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
G
GW Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
G
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
Brettski: Do you think I should copy/paste my posts in a new thread? I didn't mean to hijack your thread.

burger: In this part of Georgia there are normally no really dry periods. The average annual rainfall is almost 60 inches. If we get back to the regular weather pattern the pond level will stay relatively high, keeping the shallows flooded all year (with a properly constructed pond of course!). In that case I wouldn't get the variation in level that you describe. In fact, I'm a little concerned because I believe that normally the little branch that feeds the pond runs constantly. I haven't been here for a full year yet, but I was here to visit a few times before the drought and I think it was always moving.

So far I don't see either willows or chinese tallow. I'm thinking that if I could lower the pond level to expose the shallow area for several months at a time I could easily go in and clear out any undesirable trees. The sweetgums are already very common in the pond site with a few individuals that have 18 inch diameter trunks. The Water oaks are just as big and plentiful.

I'm curious what would happen if the pond was at the highest level and shoreline weeds became too thick. Could I lower the level and dry them out? On the other hand if the pond had been at the low level for several months with a similar weed problem, what would happen if the water level was increased by 2 or 3 feet?

Would it be practical to use two siphon spillways to create the two different levels? Could you just install a valve on the lower siphon and simply close it to raise to the higher level? I think I've read about people here using two siphons on one pond. Would that be typical on a pond this size? Would both siphons function properly if one was 2 feet lower than the other? I guess the higher siphon would have to be larger in case the lower siphon was closed and it had to handle the entire overflow.



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Damn Yankee exercises admirable forum etiquette:
 Quote:
Brettski: Do you think I should copy/paste my posts in a new thread? I didn't mean to hijack your thread.
Very considerate, D-Y...almost funny when one considers all the threads I've crashed. ;\)
In the eyes of a forum purist, so long as the content is pertinent to the subject, it belongs. Most of my better threads (I still have one set of counting fingers available) are being compiled in the "Chasing a Dream" chronology for those that follow. I think your contribution to wetland development discussion absolutely belongs.

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
G
GW Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
G
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
Well thanks Brettski, I try to be a good neighbor...

We just finished meeting with the pond man and the winner is...........

PLAN C!



This contractor actually has experience with building dual level ponds. He's done it for people who wanted to attract duck for hunting purposes. They leave large trees flooded for up to 4 months before draining down to the lower pool level.



Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
G
GW Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
G
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
Okay, I'll wait till I'm fishing to celebrate.



Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
G
GW Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
G
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
For this pond (Cindy's), the contractor ask if he could create some "reefs" with the removed stumps. Any thoughts?



Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 823
M
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
M
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 823
That sounds really great...except, how does he plan on ensuring they don't float around? I've got an entire giant cottonwood that's been floating for more than three years. I've got it tied in place now, but it just doesn't want to sink.

Perhaps the root balls themselves won't float...but I'd still ask. That would be awesome structure. She might get kinda tired of looking at them, until they get submerged...just a heads up, from my wifey's experience.


In a lifetime, the average driver will honk 15,250 times. My wife figures I'm due to die any day now...



Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
G
GW Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
G
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,287
Cindy was at the meeting and was all for it. She already knows that I'm considering tractor tires and maybe palates and she's fine with those.

Overall she's pretty cool for a female.



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
OP Offline
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,934
Likes: 2
Well, finally got a chance to install 6 Peterson design Bluebird houses. I was holding back until all the areas designated for seeding with native grasses and wildflowers was completed; didn't want to get in the way of my farm-pal, his tractor, and the seed drill. Anyway, it's all done.
Bluebird houses are best installed away from timber and away from each other. As it winds up, I only built 6 of them and based on the amount of open space we have within the parcel, 6 is about all I need. 2 went in the 2 ac meadow, 2 at the driveway entrance meadow, and 2 at the pond (one on the dam and one on the bldg site). I'm gonna throw out a couple more boring details for those that may interested in the installation; whoever you are, please wake up. Actually, I want to share the construction of the predator guard baffle. Installation without one is foolish and an invitation to bird-disaster.
-
-
Pounded in a 3/4" dia x 36" rebar. This fits very snug inside the I.D. of the 3/4" EMT electrical conduit we used as the support pole. I took a block of 3/4" thick cedar x 4" square, poked a 7/8" hole in the center, and dropped it over the rebar (just before slipping on the pipe) to keep the conduit pole from slipping downward into the soil, thus shortening the height of the entire structure.

I have been doing my Condello stretching exercises religiously, hence my ability to not only take the photo, but hold up the pipe for reference.
-
The predator guard is an 8" galv stove pipe x 30" long. I had some galv sheet and cut the tops with snips and screwed it on (very similar to the wood duck box guards earlier in this thread). A 1-1/8" hole is drilled thru the center of the galv cap (or big enough to slip over the pole loosely). The pole is 60" long, pre-drilled at home to match up with holes in the cedar bird houses.
-
The predator guard (or baffle) simply slips over the top of the pole and rests on a bracket made out of galv pipe strap.

This strap configuration keeps the baffle supported and allows it to rock as coons try to get a bear hug on it. I am uncertain how the "bumping in the wind" will be received by any prospective tenant.
-
The birdhouse attaches with 2 pc 1/4" x 2-1/2" stainless steel carriage bolts and hardware.

-
Close up the access cover with a screw and turn on the Vacancy sign.

-
(NOTE: 2 hours after they were installed, about a dozen Tree Swallows were taking turns checking them out and fighting over who was going in next)

Page 3 of 4 1 2 3 4

Link Copied to Clipboard
Today's Birthdays
cro, HC1968
Recent Posts
Dewatering bags seeded to form berms?
by RogersTailgate - 03/29/24 05:45 AM
Relative weight charts in Excel ? Calculations?
by jpsdad - 03/29/24 05:43 AM
pond experience needed
by esshup - 03/29/24 12:45 AM
New pond middle TN: establishing food chain?
by Bill Cody - 03/28/24 07:57 PM
Happy Birthday Bob Lusk!!
by FireIsHot - 03/28/24 07:33 PM
Working on a .5acre disaster, I mean pond.
by PRCS - 03/28/24 06:39 PM
Fungus infection on fish
by nvcdl - 03/28/24 06:07 PM
Can anyone ID these minnows?
by Dylanfrely - 03/28/24 05:43 PM
1 year after stocking question
by esshup - 03/28/24 04:48 PM
Yellow Perch Spawn 2024
by H20fwler - 03/28/24 04:29 PM
New 2 acre pond stocking plan
by LANGSTER - 03/28/24 03:49 PM
Newly Uploaded Images
Eagles Over The Pond Yesterday
Eagles Over The Pond Yesterday
by Tbar, December 10
Deer at Theo's 2023
Deer at Theo's 2023
by Theo Gallus, November 13
Minnow identification
Minnow identification
by Mike Troyer, October 6
Sharing the Food
Sharing the Food
by FishinRod, September 9
Nice BGxRES
Nice BGxRES
by Theo Gallus, July 28
Snake Identification
Snake Identification
by Rangersedge, July 12

� 2014 POND BOSS INC. all rights reserved USA and Worldwide

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5