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#5887 09/24/06 02:36 PM
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I know I have not been here in a while, but I need some SERIOUS Help here.
As you may or may not know, I built about a 9.5 acre lake about 2 and a half year ago. Ok also, I have had a BUNCH of trouble getting it to fill up to the top with water. The lake is abouyt 30 feet deep in the deepest part. Recently, about 4 months back I deverted anothe stream to this pond to try to help fill it up. There has been water flowing in it for about a month now and this is very littel change in the water height.

Today I did a little bit more investigation and I have notice about 50 or so feet behind the dam in the original creek channel there is a good stream of water through there. I have come to the STRONG conclusion that I have a major LEAK!!! There is no way that there should be that amount of water flowing through there!! I am CERTAIN this is the reason why the lake will not fill up.

Now I have spent 3 years on this thing along with alot of time and effort to get my lake done.
What do I do about this leak? How do I go about fixing it?
If I have to drain the lake, thats no big deal at all. Should I try to fix this from the front or the back? Like I said draining it and loosing the fish is NOTHING at this point. If draining it at this point fixes my problem I will be glad to do it.
I was with the contractor two years ago when he cut the core and it seemed to me that he went deep enough. But for some reason the lake is not holding water. In fact it has NEVER filled to the top.

PLEASE HELP!!!! \:\(

#5888 09/24/06 06:42 PM
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Big Pond :

Get the contractor to come and look to see what he says. Take some pics and post them here. You need to be sure what the problem is and its extent before you take action.
















#5889 09/24/06 06:54 PM
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Yeah I know... I have already thrown Thousands at this problem already. Actually to devert the stream I had to build yet another 2 acre pond on about 140 acres of water shed, and have it run into the big pond that is not filling up. The only thing I know to do if I can't do anything is to yet come away and sale this tract of land for the 3rd time in my career at this....I mean this is REALLY dis heartning here, I mean DEPRESSING!!! \:\(

#5890 09/24/06 08:03 PM
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Guys!! I really need yall on this one!! \:\(
Greg are you out there?? Give me a call man when you get a chance..

#5891 09/24/06 09:09 PM
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bp, Did you give Greg a PM?


Holding a redear sunfish is like running with scissors.
#5892 09/24/06 09:50 PM
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 Quote:
Originally posted by Bruce Condello:
bp, Did you give Greg a PM?
No, I did not, at least not yet...

#5893 09/25/06 07:35 AM
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If we hear from Greg every couple of weeks in the warm months (busy season) we're lucky.


"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever."
-S. M. Stirling
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#5894 09/25/06 07:52 AM
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big_pond,

Sorry to read about the leak. It has to be frustrating. The first thing I would do is get the original contractor out to look over the situation and make a recommendation. Depending on what he says would determine the next step.

It's only a guess but from your description, proper construction, core dam, I would first suspect the leak to be in the pond bottom itself. What is the bottom like, especially in the near vicinity of the old creek bed? It is very common around here for old creeks to go underground for portions at a time.

To fix a leak like that properly will require draining and repairing. Do you have good clay available at the site? If so, draining, packing a couple of feet over the leaking area(s) should put you back in the game.

#5895 09/25/06 12:29 PM
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Well I thought and I "DO EMPHISISE THOUGHT" the creek bottom was made of clay, but I could have been wrong. I thought the whole bottom was clay. I had the soil maps on the place and it calls the dirt to be Ceicel clay, what ever that is.

I talked with the NRCS and they were talking that some people tend to recore the back of the dam area where the will dig about 1/3 of the back of the dam and re-core it back there. Has anyone heard of this before??

#5896 09/25/06 01:39 PM
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BigPond, hello old friend. I see you have finally made the discovery of why your pond is not filling up. I hate to hear it, for sure, and assumed by your prior posts, that there was so much clay you wouldn't have to worry about it.

The good news, is just that, you do have lots of clay to work with. If you can not determine where the water is going through, and the only way I can think of, if it is not just obvious, is by witching the void, then you will need to treat the entire floor above the water line with a clay blanket, to be sure, or lesser measures of disking and compacting and or hogs sealing your clay.

Good luck, and though I'm not around as much these days, I have noted your absence.

One last thought, be sure to look at all of your photos during lake construction. A problem I have personally had, is from stump holes that I had forgotten about creating, upon removal of various trees.


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#5897 09/25/06 01:41 PM
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One last thought, you don't mention the gallons per minute of your diverted stream. It takes an unbelievable amount of water to make a dent in a 9.5 acre pond. Are you sure you have the volume of water?

Lack of volume would still not explain the lack water getting back in the stream.

Goodness. Sheesh. Tough one.


Upon further reading, it appears that she's going right under the dam, or possibly around it. Sounds like the core wasn't deep enough. However, who knows how deep is deep enough? You may have run into major costs, had it been taken deeper, and tons and tons of ponds are never keyed and work fine, especially in areas of good dirt. A clay liner of the whole pond may seal it, keeping it from ever going below.


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#5898 09/25/06 01:49 PM
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Keep your head up, and look at the bright side. You have a two acre pond and a 5 acre pond. I know it is not what you want, but many of us here would be jealous.

I recall ML saying one time that good things come to those who persist. It is true. Take your time, and fix it. You can key the front of the pond floor. What suprises me, is that the weight of the 5 acre pond didn't seal it. The water must be going around the dam at the level it now holds.


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#5899 09/25/06 02:05 PM
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It all seem sort of strang to me as well. I talked with the NRCS guy and he thinks its just springs near and around the back of the dam. I am not sure I just think it should be filling up more than it is. Of course we have had a drought this summer as well. He said let this new 2 acre pond with the over flow going in this big lake take effect first and see if it make a difference.
The flow into the big lake is around 20 gallons per minute.

Where it seem it's leaking is near the back of the dam in and around the the creek channel. I can go dwon streem about 20 feet from the bottom of the dam and see water flowing. This what leads me to believe there is a leak. I was told by hime that I could try to RE core the whole back area of the dam. Have any of you herd of this?

#5900 09/25/06 02:12 PM
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20 GPM won't do squat, but keep her capped off.

It may be springs, but spings below the proposed water level ain't good.

Wait and see is not bad, but not fun either.

A feller I know re keyed the back of his one time if I recall. He worked on the front too. Both together worked OK, but nothing like 40 full grown black baldie cows trampling the floor of the pond and dam.


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#5901 09/25/06 03:14 PM
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 Quote:
Originally posted by Robinson:
20 GPM won't do squat, but keep her capped off.

It may be springs, but spings below the proposed water level ain't good.

Wait and see is not bad, but not fun either.

A feller I know re keyed the back of his one time if I recall. He worked on the front too. Both together worked OK, but nothing like 40 full grown black baldie cows trampling the floor of the pond and dam.
Do you think 20 GPM will at least keep it full?
Iw onder if I can get a bunch of cows like that from. I am thinking I would HATE to drain the pond to try to fix this problem.

If I felt like the pond would stay full once it was filled up then there would be no issue. My fear is that if it EVER filled up it would sooner or later drain back out again.


I thought about drilling a well and letting the well fill up the pond and seeing what happens from there...

#5902 09/25/06 04:03 PM
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BigPond,

We need a little more information on your current situation.

1. What is the approximate volume of your leak? In gallons per minute what would you estimate the outflow to be?
2. Is the water leaving the backside of your structure muddy or clear? Muddy water is a good indicator that your structure is loosing earth fill and probably compromised.
3. How deep did you dig the core trench? What was the material like at the bottom of the core. Sand, silt, clay, rock, tree roots, etc.
4. How deep is the current pool (water level) above natural ground? The probability of a dam leaking goes up exponentially with the dam height. Even tightly compacted clay leaks to some degree; (.04 inches per hour for example). Small “clear leaks” are generally not of much concern on tall structures. Example – Big Mac in Nebraska leaks, they call the resulting leak, Lake Ogalala.
5. I agree with others in that 20 gpm is probably not enough volume in a 9 acre lake to cover evaporation and seepage. In my neck of the woods I like to use 30 gpm as purely pond maintenance. (no net gain or loss).
6. What type of equipment was used to compact the structures fill? Example – Dozer, Dozer scraper combo, scraper, sheepsfoot compactor, etc.
7. Was the earth fill material of proper moisture content? Dry soils regardless of their texture (sand, silt, clay) compact poorly.

Post a few pictures if possible.

Sorry to hear about your pond and I hope we can be of some help.

Good luck,

Ed

#5903 09/25/06 04:26 PM
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Ed, I think this may be another of your classics.

#5904 09/25/06 05:29 PM
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BP,

Sorry to hear about your situation. I know you've spent alot of time on this project to get to this point and now to have a leak is awful.

Following Ed's item #2, is there any way to inject a dye into the lake where you think the leak originates? Just trying to help you determine if the leak is from subsurface flow or lake discharge.

#5905 09/25/06 07:43 PM
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 Quote:
Originally posted by Edward P. Eitel:
BigPond,

We need a little more information on your current situation.

1. What is the approximate volume of your leak? In gallons per minute what would you estimate the outflow to be?
2. Is the water leaving the backside of your structure muddy or clear? Muddy water is a good indicator that your structure is loosing earth fill and probably compromised.
3. How deep did you dig the core trench? What was the material like at the bottom of the core. Sand, silt, clay, rock, tree roots, etc.
4. How deep is the current pool (water level) above natural ground? The probability of a dam leaking goes up exponentially with the dam height. Even tightly compacted clay leaks to some degree; (.04 inches per hour for example). Small “clear leaks” are generally not of much concern on tall structures. Example – Big Mac in Nebraska leaks, they call the resulting leak, Lake Ogalala.
5. I agree with others in that 20 gpm is probably not enough volume in a 9 acre lake to cover evaporation and seepage. In my neck of the woods I like to use 30 gpm as purely pond maintenance. (no net gain or loss).
6. What type of equipment was used to compact the structures fill? Example – Dozer, Dozer scraper combo, scraper, sheepsfoot compactor, etc.
7. Was the earth fill material of proper moisture content? Dry soils regardless of their texture (sand, silt, clay) compact poorly.

Post a few pictures if possible.

Sorry to hear about your pond and I hope we can be of some help.

Good luck,

Ed
WOW!!! GOOD QUESTIONS!!!
Man this was good STUFF right here.

Ok for number:
1. Man it is tough to say. I look at the "total leakeage about 20 to 30 feet or so from the base of the dam in the creek chanel..Just a quick look, it appears to be maybe 15 gpm give or tak a couple. Like I said I look at it colectivly in the creek channel, and it apears to be this much.

2. is the water in the back muddy or clear
Well it is sort of on the rusty side. I can say that it is NOT muddy. If I may add I have two pipes across the back of my dam about 1/3 of the way up and about 10 feet into the dam. The NRCS called these two drains. They are incased in gravel with a bunch of wholes on the pipe. One goes down the right length of the dam while the other goes down the left and they meet in the center where the water is discharged out.
Now there is some trickle of water coming out of both of these, and it is rust color BUT NOT MUDDY.

Also about 5 feet from the dam just to the right there is a bolder with clear water running over the top of it as well.

But to answer you question, The water apears to be rusty but not muddy.

3.
The core was about 15 to 20 feet deep and was at least as wide as the track hoe bucket. At the bottom it appeared to be a gray silt, a HARD silt, and some of the times we would hit rock. He actually lifted a few bolders out. The core was wide enough in a few places to drive the dozer in it. While he was cutting the core, a dump truck would drop a load right behind where he dug.

4.
At the preasent the pool stands at about 23 to 25 feet deep in the deepest parts and has a surface acrage of about 4 acres right now due to the drought we have had.

The machinery used was a 2 trac hoe's, Dozer, and three dump trucks.

Well I hope this helps...I right now don't know what to do....maybe its not a leak...who knows...I sort of HOPE its not. The only way to REALY know (I guess) is to drain the pond and note the change in the water flow conditions in the back area. But I am starting to not like the idea of draining the pond now, I don't know maybe my heart will change about it later.


I tell you we were VERY cautious when we cut this core, I can't see how I could possibly have a leak!

please HELP!!! \:\(

#5906 09/25/06 07:47 PM
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 Quote:
Originally posted by Russ:
BP,

Sorry to hear about your situation. I know you've spent alot of time on this project to get to this point and now to have a leak is awful.

Following Ed's item #2, is there any way to inject a dye into the lake where you think the leak originates? Just trying to help you determine if the leak is from subsurface flow or lake discharge.
Man I thought about useing a dye or something, but man that would be TOUGH!! I mean that is a BIG dam and a Big lake and deep too.


I was reading some where that someone wanted to do a sample of both the lake water, and the "Seepage water" to see if they could be the same thing. Has anyone ever done this?

#5907 09/25/06 07:51 PM
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 Quote:
If I may add I have two pipes across the back of my dam about 1/3 of the way up and about 10 feet into the dam. The NRCS called these two drains. They are incased in gravel with a bunch of wholes on the pipe. One goes down the right length of the dam while the other goes down the left and they meet in the center where the water is discharged out.
Now there is some trickle of water coming out of both of these, and it is rust color BUT
....hmmmm. Do we have a reason to focus for a moment on these pipes? I guess I'm too green to understand...but...I don't understand. Are these your principal spillways? The gravel and perforations are really throwin' me off.

#5908 09/25/06 07:59 PM
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BP,

When you say rusty water, my thoughts turn to ground water with iron. The rusty color is a result of the iron oxidizing when it reacts with oxygen. Do a search on iron bacteria.

#5909 09/25/06 08:26 PM
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Like Russ, the rusty color makes me suspicious (doubtful) of a dam leak. However, you could have a bottom or side leak that is leaching through a rocky area and exiting behind the dam.

Try catching some of it in a jar and see what settles out. That might tell you whether the "leak" is going through a rocky area.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
#5910 09/25/06 09:04 PM
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The drain pipes are put in (under) a dam where there are or could be springs to safely remove that water.
Lessens the prospect that a spring under the dam would hurt the structure through erosion or saturation.
I would doupt it is the structure or core leaking.


Make it look easy,
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#5911 09/25/06 09:38 PM
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The NRCS called these pipes Toe drains. They go about a 1/3 of the way back up the dam then across the entire back of the dam. It is 6 in pipe with a bunch of little 1/8 inch holes in it. One pipe goes to the right one goes to the left. then they are discharged toward the main drain pipe. They are covered in gravel. I would say about a foot or so square in gravel down the entire length.

They are there just incase there is a spring under the dam, the water has a place to go.

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