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My pond perimeter is covered in FA from the pond bottom to the water surface. The algae is as deep as 6 feet and covering my man-made SMB spawning beds. I successfully treated the floating FA earlier in the season with Cutrine Plus, and the algae quickly turned brown and disappeared. Now when I spray the surface mats, they just turn brown and stay there. I assume that the FA is still alive and anchored to the bottom and thus not going anywhere. I did an extensive killing of cattail and rice cutgrass this summer, so I wonder if this has encouraged even more algae growth. I am using Black Dyemond for shading, yet the visibility is 7 feet with a Secchi disk. On the upside, there are thousands of minnows swimming around in the FA. I stocked 3" YP in June, and plan to stock SMB this fall. Suggestions? I can try to hit the submerged algae with Cutrine Plus with the sprayer wand or try Cutrine Plus granular. Next year I will look into Tilapia. https://imgur.com/a/8GiIvLl(Looks like imgur changed their image hosting for the worse. There is no longer the easy option to embed the image inline with BBCode. Grrrr.) Edit: The BBCode is back. Not sure what happened when I posted yesterday.
Last edited by Knobber; 08/26/24 11:20 AM.
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Just a reminder - the floating FA is already dead/dying. Next year I will look into Tilapia. Start looking now for next year - legality in MI, sources, number of pounds you are going to want.
"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever." -S. M. Stirling
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Just killing the algae, letting it sink and decay does nothing for the stimulus that made FA grow - NUTRIENTS aka forms of Fertilizer in the pond basin. Dissolved nutrients NOT being used by any other type of plant allows FA to flourish. FA lives on the available unused excess nutrients.
When you go to a local lake/s you rarely ever see big growths of FA like in your pond. This is because lots of rooted vegetation / plants or various types of algae in the lake are using the dissolved available nutrients. When dissolved nutrients are not being used by submerged /emergent plants and or phytoplankton then FA grows really well like in your current pond situation. Your water appears quite clear which means lower numbers of phytoplankton because FA absorbed the nutrients away from the phytoplankton. Removing as much of the FA as possible removes the bound-up nutrients in the FA, thus lowering the nutrient load in the pond. Removing FA harvests nutrients out of the pond, just as farm crops remove nutrients from the field when the crop is harvested, thus the field needs to be fertilized for the next crop.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 08/26/24 10:42 AM.
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Just killing the algae, letting it sink and decay does nothing for the stimulus that made FA grow - NUTRIENTS aka forms of Fertilizer in the pond basin. Dissolved nutrients NOT being used by any other type of plant allows FA to flourish. FA lives on the available unused excess nutrients.
When you go to a local lake/s you rarely ever see big growths of FA like in your pond. This is because lots of rooted vegetation / plants or various types of algae in the lake are using the dissolved available nutrients. When dissolved nutrients are not being used by submerged /emergent plants and or phytoplankton then FA grows really well like in your current pond situation. Your water appears quite clear which means lower numbers of phytoplankton because FA absorbed the nutrients away from the phytoplankton. Removing as much of the FA as possible removes the bound-up nutrients in the FA, thus lowering the nutrient load in the pond. Removing FA harvests nutrients out of the pond, just as farm crops remove nutrients from the field when the crop is harvested, thus the field needs to be fertilized for the next crop. Thanks for that info, Bill. Yes, I think the pond bottom is very fertile, since it was excavated from a swamp/peat bog. Here's the soil report, if that gives any clues. https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=556652So, it sounds like you are suggesting removing the algae, rather than letting it decay. This would mean raking (ugh) or Tilapia, correct? Better yet, is there a way to shift the nutrient consumption to more desirable plants? How about applying a phosphorous binder this fall or early next spring?
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So, it sounds like you are suggesting removing the algae, rather than letting it decay. This would mean raking (ugh) or Tilapia, correct? Yes, raking the FA is definitely an (ugh) job. You can't even just rake it onto the shore rocks or the surrounding bank. If you only do that, the subsequent rains will just wash the nutrients from the decaying FA back into the pond. You can definitely make improvements by adding beneficial plants. They should be easy to establish in your pond bottom material. What plants do you like in your area ponds and lakes? Maybe identify those, and then post on the forum to see if they are invasive, or if usually considered beneficial. Do you have crayfish, turtles, carp, etc. in your pond. They all love to eat newly established plants. If you have those critters, then you probably need to read some of the threads on protecting your plants. I don't know about the phosphorous binder. I believe there are also a few good threads on that. I think(?) the efficacy of that treatment is dependent upon some of the other water chemistry conditions in your pond? Never hurts to get a few baseline water quality measurements in your "pond notes" anyway. Good luck on your pond improvements!
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Knobber, sorry to see your FA problem. They are thorny issues for sure.
I had a constant raking plan going but it sent me to the physical therapist more than once. I paid neighbor kids to rake and they soon found that I didn't pay them enough (apparently) for the work expected as soon there was no more neighbor boys willing to rake.
But I knew that if I hauled out 3-4 trailer loads of heavy algae mats that this was 500 or more pounds of nutrients that would never be back in the water column or on the bottom of the pond. It seemed like i could take out 500 pounds a year easily...
Then one year in the fall I got a small plastic boat and a 6hp 2 stroke outboard and I had my son run the outboard and I stood in the shallows in front of the boat. He would gun the motor and swing the tiller from side to side while the boat tried to push me over. This way we could sweep a very powerful water jet back and forth and really peel off a bunch of the muck that was in the shallows. We created billows of muck all the way around. This isn't ideal as it pushes the nutrients into the deep which ideally I would like it out of the pond. But it did help clean up the shallows.
That winter we had FA on the UNDERSIDE of the ice. Come spring there was algae growing in the shallows all over even in cold water. That season we had an explosion of FA which I believe was simply due to dredging tons of nutrients out of the bottom and suspending them back up in the water.
We raked and raked and raked some more and after that year we have had 2-3 years of very little FA at all.
You may have to play through this bumper crop of nutrients and find a mechanical removal tool. Some on the forum have rigged a long pole and a crude rake like drag on a front end loader to allow them to drive out and pull the algae back in. Others have dragged a mattress or some other type of drag through the shallows to pull it out.
Tilapia can help but in your size pond you would need a lot as in our short growing season only the larger stocked Tilapia will eat the algae and you will not have time for TP to have babies and for the babies to grow up large enough to help eat the algage.
But yes, even with lots of chemicals killing the algae you have hundreds and hundreds of pounds of organic material that still is best moved out of the pond.
Last edited by canyoncreek; 08/27/24 11:29 AM.
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So, it sounds like you are suggesting removing the algae, rather than letting it decay. This would mean raking (ugh) or Tilapia, correct? Yes, raking the FA is definitely an (ugh) job. You can't even just rake it onto the shore rocks or the surrounding bank. If you only do that, the subsequent rains will just wash the nutrients from the decaying FA back into the pond. You can definitely make improvements by adding beneficial plants. They should be easy to establish in your pond bottom material. What plants do you like in your area ponds and lakes? Maybe identify those, and then post on the forum to see if they are invasive, or if usually considered beneficial. Do you have crayfish, turtles, carp, etc. in your pond. They all love to eat newly established plants. If you have those critters, then you probably need to read some of the threads on protecting your plants. I don't know about the phosphorous binder. I believe there are also a few good threads on that. I think(?) the efficacy of that treatment is dependent upon some of the other water chemistry conditions in your pond? Never hurts to get a few baseline water quality measurements in your "pond notes" anyway. Good luck on your pond improvements! Thanks, 'Rod. Just turtles at the moment. I like pickerelweed (already planted some last year), bullrush, arrowhead, and blueflag iris. All are native and beneficial for fish/ponds, I believe. If it is simply a matter of planting, then that is an easy approach, but will take some time to see the benefits.
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Knobber, sorry to see your FA problem. They are thorny issues for sure.
I had a constant raking plan going but it sent me to the physical therapist more than once. I paid neighbor kids to rake and they soon found that I didn't pay them enough (apparently) for the work expected as soon there was no more neighbor boys willing to rake.
But I knew that if I hauled out 3-4 trailer loads of heavy algae mats that this was 500 or more pounds of nutrients that would never be back in the water column or on the bottom of the pond. It seemed like i could take out 500 pounds a year easily...
Then one year in the fall I got a small plastic boat and a 6hp 2 stroke outboard and I had my son run the outboard and I stood in the shallows in front of the boat. He would gun the motor and swing the tiller from side to side while the boat tried to push me over. This way we could sweep a very powerful water jet back and forth and really peel off a bunch of the muck that was in the shallows. We created billows of muck all the way around. This isn't ideal as it pushes the nutrients into the deep which ideally I would like it out of the pond. But it did help clean up the shallows.
That winter we had FA on the UNDERSIDE of the ice. Come spring there was algae growing in the shallows all over even in cold water. That season we had an explosion of FA which I believe was simply due to dredging tons of nutrients out of the bottom and suspending them back up in the water.
We raked and raked and raked some more and after that year we have had 2-3 years of very little FA at all.
You may have to play through this bumper crop of nutrients and find a mechanical removal tool. Some on the forum have rigged a long pole and a crude rake like drag on a front end loader to allow them to drive out and pull the algae back in. Others have dragged a mattress or some other type of drag through the shallows to pull it out.
Tilapia can help but in your size pond you would need a lot as in our shorting growing season only the larger stocked Tilapia will eat the algae and you will not have time for TP to have babies and for the babies to grow up large enough to help eat the algage.
But yes, even with lots of chemicals killing the algae you have hundreds and hundreds of pounds of organic material that still is best moved out of the pond. Thanks, CC. I had to chuckle when you said that raking algae sent you to physical therapy! I can relate with my wonky back. Good point on the Tilapia. I heard that the rule of thumb was 20 lbs per acre, but I don't know what means in terms of the size/quantity of the fish.
Last edited by Knobber; 08/26/24 07:01 PM.
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I like pickerelweed (already planted some last year), bullrush, arrowhead, and blueflag iris. All are native and beneficial for fish/ponds, I believe. If it is simply a matter of planting, I don't think the marginal shoreline plants will remove a significant amount of nutrients from the pond water. Absorption of most of the available pond nutrients are IMO done by submerged vegetation. The alga Chara also absorbs and binds lots of nutrients. When all vegetation dies and sinks in the pond all nutrients are recycled. Canyon Creek noticed a lot less FA growth after a few years of heavy FA removal. Other pond owners have also experienced similar results after removing lots and lots of FA.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 08/26/24 08:19 PM.
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Just my experience , with Tilapia . Wherever roots of land plants extended out of bank , trees , etc , Tilapia as small as 1" , by the hundreds would be sucking up and down these roots removing FA. Anything in the pond that had FA anchored to it , was cleaned promptly by small to medium Tilapia. The growing from Fry to Fingerling , to sexually mature was not wasted for removing FA. May have been the variety of Tilapia, the species of FA or other variable , but 3 years out of 3 , my Tilapia ate FA reliably at all visible ages of Tilapia. 1st year , an all white Tilapia From Moore's , 2nd year , a greenish Tilapia , from Moore.s , 3rd year a beautiful golden Tilapia from Harbins in Okla. All worked great , all delicious when scooped out of shallows the 3rd week of November., Have never had to wait for Tilapia to grow to a certain length or maturity to start feasting on FA .
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My results with Tilapia was not that the young would not eat the FA, but that I didn't stock enough. I think in southern ponds you can get by with stocking less of the larger more expensive ones because in the longer growing season the stockers will thousands of babies, maybe once maybe more than once in a long hot Texas summer? It is the multiplication of thousands that work well to trim back on the FA as Fishingadventure describes above.
In my case due to short warm weather season the stockers did not make babies so it was only the initial stockers vs the algae. The adult TP also eat other things besides FA like bugs and even little fish so not all their diet was towards the FA.
I stocked 3-4" stockers and didn't weight them but was probably close to 10 pounds in a quarter acre puddle so close to 40#/acre. They didn't make a sizable dent in the FA. That means that I probably would have to stock many more. It would be ideal if I could bring a tank inside and see if a few breeding pairs could produce thousands of young TP to go in the pond once weather warms up in the spring but I'm not set up or have the know how to keep a tank of fish alive all winter inside.
Aquaponics is not a big hobby or industry here so we struggle to source the TP as well.
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Tilapia will spawn multiple times over a summer in the south. About every 25 days+-. They have high initial survival rates resulting from mouth brooding. They can reproduce at 2 mths old if well fed.
Last edited by ewest; 08/27/24 12:03 PM.
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[quote] ... after removing lots and lots of FA. OK, so I am in the process of raking. It seems like I pulled out a metric ton of FA already, and it has barely made a dent. What is the best way to dispose of the FA? I tried burning some of it, but that didn't work so well (the thick mats remain wet inside), and it would take forever given the amount. So, my current approach is to load up a tarp or plastic ice fishing sled, drag it into the woods behind the pond with my UTV, and unload. This location is out of the pond watershed. However, unloading the FA is almost as much work as raking it. Is there a better method?
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Use the FA as plant mulch. It helps hold the moisture around the plant.
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Knobber, take a look at this video and see if maybe this might help you? At least it would help you get the shore line cleared and then maybe wind would move more algae to the shore again? If you had a front end loader or dump style trailer of some type you could discharge into the trailer or FEL to let the water drain out and then dump in a pile in the woods. I leave my algae in a pile just far enough away that it can't get nutrients back into the pond. It dries out pretty quickly but not enough to burn unless it is spread thin say around plants in a garden. I have a small tractor with loader so now it is easier for me to move the semi-dry piles. I try to mix some leaves in with the algae and this year I'm dumping large scoops of leaves/algae and compost into my chicken coop. The chickens dig through it for any worms or bugs and in the process of spreading it all out for me and clawing through it they rapidly turn it into regular dirt for me. hm... can't get the inline link of the youtube video to embed into the post using the embed video option in the full screen editor. Maybe someone else can test on their end to see if that is true for me only or for everyone. I'll just put the link here and you'll have to copy/paste it or click the link to open it. DIY algae pump
Last edited by canyoncreek; 09/24/24 08:17 PM.
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Thanks, canyoncreek. That pump is clever, and it looks suitable for occasional cleanup of small, floating, patches of FA. However, I have thick mats on the surface, and boulder-sized mounds of FA below the surface, which would bog down that pump.
I have pricey rake with 11-inch tines that was recommended by another forum member. It works well, but the loads are heavy. I use the pool noodle float to snare just the surface mats and keep the algae off the frame of the rake. I take off the pool noodle float to scrape my SMB spawning beds that are 2-5 ft below the surface.
Yeah, I figured a tractor or skid steer with a bucket would be the way to go.
I am seriously considering tilapia next spring. Also, I am reading up on phosphorous binders. I'll start a new thread on that topic
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Yes it is time for some innovation in the world of clearing ponds of FA. Usually if enough people have the need the good ideas start showing up.
I wonder if somehow an inventor could make use of the fact that the mats of algae tend to want to cling to one another in a way that if you started pulling on a mat that it would keep pulling more and more along with it?
I was thinking about those giant augers that I used to see in a farm setting that I believe were used to lift and move shelled corn from a bin and lift it up aways into a taller bin or silo?
I wonder if you had the end of this auger down in the thick mats down near the bottom if the mats would spin themselves around the auger and grab more and more mats as they move up the auger. Of course they would have to fall off at the other end somehow and you would need some pto driven power to turn it or a stand alone engine driven auger. I don't think there is a ready to go solution like that but just thinking that this might help harvest using a shore mounted position and be able to reach 15 or 20 feet out all the way around.
Otherwise yes if you could harvest with the help of Tilapia or Pekin Ducks or other living solutions it may help too.
once nutrients are out of the water it will help but if you have tons of sequestered nitrogen and phosphorous in the soil under the pond then it could continue to be an issue.
Last edited by canyoncreek; 09/25/24 03:54 PM.
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...I am seriously considering tilapia next spring. Also, I am reading up on phosphorous binders. I'll start a new thread on that topic Just my experience, but stringy plants or algae can clog up at the flap entering the pump housing if too much comes in at once. If so, unconnecting and cleaning out the inlet hose may be needed. You don't want that. Plants like coontail, or in this case some FA, killing the plant before you vac it out can make it much easier to suction, and you're still taking the dead algae out of the pond. I've also floated the end of the pump inlet hose 6"-12" deep in place, got wet, and raked the plants and algae to the hose. It's fair less effort than moving rigid pvc pipe. Check fish, peeps, and livestock restrictions on phosphorous binders before you select one. I'm trying something Friday or Staurday for a neighbor's cow tank that doesn't restrict their immediate access to the tank. I'll post how the numbers move, or if they move at all.
AL
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I look forward to your results. Thanks for posting your experiments Al!
I think mechanical + chemical + tilapia is the best toolbox to use for treating FA. Of course, you may have to exclude some of the tools for certain ponds.
However, it is nice to have a good tutorial on Pond Boss that shows ALL of the available tools!
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Here are my mechanical tools at the moment. It's backbreaking work, so I only do a couple loads each day. Some patches of FA are far away and require chest waders to reach. The drag is the "Yard Glider" that is relentlessly in my FB feed. I pulled the trigger and bought the basic model. Pricey, but heavy duty, and perfect for this application. Good for loading and unloading heavy mats of algae - no lifting and water drains right off.
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Knobber,
Thanks for posting your "how to" kit.
Presumably the trade off for all of your hard work is that you are starting to develop the arms of a lumberjack.
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When I drag the elodea and entangled FA from our pond, I use a heavy 5' rake I've made from 1 1/2" aluminum square tubing with 8" bolts for teeth. I attach a repurposed rock climbing line to the handle, run it through a redirect block hung form a tree on shore, and loop it on the hitch of my tractor or quad. I set the rake from my aluminum boat.
The wad of vegetation that comes in with each drag weighs in excess of several hundred pounds. The most difficult part of the whole job is getting that dragged load onto some sort of conveyance. Some of it is still in the water at shoreline. I lift it with a pitch fork or drag it with the back blade of the tractor. How are you getting it onto the yard glider?
I have piles of weeds the size of my wife's small SUV drying out here and there around the pond.
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I am doing all this by hand, and it is awkward for sure. I use the pool noodle float on the rake to snare just the floating mats on the 11-inch rake tines. A full rake load is about my limit than I can effectively maneuver - maybe 35 lbs?. As the rake nears shore, I try to orient it vertically, to keep algae from falling off the tines. I then carry the rake over the yardglider and rotate so the algae slides off the tines.
Still, some algae strands remain at the shore. I pick them up by hand or just let it be. If there is still a lot of submerged algae, I take off the float from the rake and go deeper. This usually fouls the entire rake frame with algae and weeds, making it harder to slide stuff off.
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