I am looking at a 4 ft x 20 ft T-shape dock kit from Tommy Docks. In their instructional video, they simply set the edge of the dock on some pavers on shore. No posts, no pouring concrete, no brackets. That certainly would make installation easy, but I am a little worried about the end of the dock being unconstrained. Does anybody see a problem with this approach?
Just my experience, but don't add the deck pad exactly like they showed. You do want the pad feet, but I always tighten it just under the deck, and drive the post down with a t post driver. Make sure the deck pipe is in the corner bracket and that will help keep the pipe vertical. If the pipe footer hits the ground, then raise it again, and drive it down some more. I try to hit clay, and that may be a foot or 2 foot down, and that's plenty. I've got one 2 tier Tommy Dock deck that's held on a near 45 degree angle for years. You may need to use a block or screw a 2X4 to the dock to keep it level while you set the posts.
I may not be an expert on Ponds, but I am a builder and have built a few docks. The Tommy dock systems are definitely easy and seem to hold up, but definitely do not just set the first panel on blocks like that. That will add additional strain on your first set of posts, and essentially put all the horizontal strain from the first panel onto those. I would add additional posts at the shore line, This will prohibit any horizontal sway in the event of a storm/ flooding, and only allow the dock to float up and down as intended. You definitely want to drive the posts as deep as possible, and the feet are a good idea to support any strain from the sides. Id leave them loose till you drive the posts then tighten at ground level. If water is too deep to do so just use the auger style, and still the deeper the better. Also like FireIsHot said make sure they are as level as physically possible! If they don’t go down strait the distances between them will increase or decrease and that I’ll prohibit proper dock movement. For those docks to hold up you need to make sure that every panel is supported on 4 sides from horizontal movement and only allow the dock to float up and down, not left and right, set post as deep as physically possible, and as level as possible. If done correctly it will last a long time! Also YouTube post setting leveling jigs and there a bunch of ways to DIY a simple jig with some 2x4s to assure you drive them level.
I see, different design, and idk if I’d recommend that. Unless your water level remains constant, and even then I would drive 6x6s down and attach frame to that. The ones I’ve done were floating with the frames having built in floatation devices along with the decking itself being buoyant. Then how does it account for water level changes? Posts get attached to the actual dock with a larger diameter sleeve (or “U” type bracket) to allow for up and down movement with water height changes. Otherwise your dock platform would need to be set above your max flood water height, and if it wasn’t the up pressure from the dock trying to float would destroy it and cause the posts to pull up. The first few storms your dock would be under water and eventually would tear apart and float away. In that video they set it right at shore ground level. Maybe your body of water is controlled and doesn’t allow for water level fluctuations? If not make sure you set yours heigh enough, and then build a ramp from the shore to dock height.
It could be an entirely different system than I’ve used in the past, but as long as you follow manufacturer guidelines then any damage or design flaws that potentially could happen should be covered by them. Just read the fine print for specific requirements! I know those systems aren’t cheep!!
Yes, I have a spillway pipe, so the max water level is known. I think the rule of thumb is to have the deck surface 18" above the maximum waterline.
I am mainly concerned about the first dock section just sitting unconstrained on some paving stones. So, I called Tommy Docks and asked them. They left it open-ended, saying it all depends on the situation.
I am mainly concerned about the first dock section just sitting unconstrained on some paving stones.
Are you concerned because you want some movement, or you want zero movement?
You could dig a post hole near the end of the dock and fill it with concrete and set an eyebolt. Run a cable to an eyebolt in your last piece of deck wood and put a turnbuckle under the dock connecting the cable. You could then tension your "hold down" to whatever you desired, and easily change the tension at a later date if you decide your prior tautness was not optimal.
Are you concerned because you want some movement, or you want zero movement?
Since it is a stationary dock, I figured zero movement everywhere would be best.
In that case, I would design some easy way to anchor that end that fit your situation, get all of the rest of the dock level, and then anchor the heck out of that end. Certainly easier to work on dry ground, compared to slopes or underwater.
