Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Property Projects & Construction Finalizing Plans for Floating Dock and Ramp

Hello all, been researching this since last fall - and finally gathering parts to prep for build here in a few weeks. Wanted to go over the plan and ask a few questions I still havent decided on.

Main question: I believe 12 barrels will be ample flotation = estimating weight of finished dock around 700-800 lbs certainly under 1000. 12 barrels half submerged should support 2700 lbs. I read a few posts here that recommended filling the barrels 1/3rd full as ballast to stabilize the dock from movement when walking on it. Im just trying to figure out how that affects the buoyancy and if its possible to calculate that. I dont want too much ballast and the dock is sinking too far down? Would it be easier to just sink a few 5 gallon buckets of concrete at the corners connected to chain?

Main Floating Dock = 12' by 8'. 2x10 or 2x12 (debating going 2x12 for added weight stability) for the main framework and joists and blocking.
have 3 rows of 4 barrels planned for 12 total.

Ramp/Walkway = 3' by 12'. 2x10. 2 barrels in water - connected with dock hinge hardware. Connected on shore with 2 4x4" posts set in concrete. Connecton of walkway to the 4x4s had a few options: The water does rise over winter and spring due to melt, so it needs to be able to adjust. saw some use a pipe as a swivel, i think i will use some 3/4" Square U Bolts around the 4x4's so it can float up and down ok?

Trex Decking - ill install after i get it on the water

Going to silicon the bung holes on the barrels a few days before hand, have some water sealer for the cut ends of pressure treated lumber.

Connnecting Barrels to the dock itself. I know gravity should hold in place - but i dont want to mess with it later so looking at retention ideas and there are alot floating around. I thought a nifty idea was to cut up a barrel on a table saw into 2-3" strips and use that to attach the barrels. Have plenty of barrels so that should be fine.

ordered galvanized corners and plates, joist corners and plates, hinge plates for the walkway, and square U bolts. Then Carriage bolts and lock washers, nuts. Prob need some deck screws for blocking and barrel straps. Anything else im missing?



Think thats it.

Main thing im looking for feedback on it:
Do i fill the barrels for ballast? Dont really love that idea, i dont know why, guess i need some experienced advice on the matter.
Or am i worrying about that too much and the size and weight of the deck should make it pretty stable?

Weight is not the only factor in making the dock "stable". The sway is also a significant issue that is not much offset much by weight (inertia).

Most of the stable docks I have seen have some type of posts at the deep end. For example, steel posts that are able to slide up and down inside a steel collar affixed to the dock frame.

That will make the dock much more stable side-to-side. It will also help when gusty winds are blowing perpendicular to your walkway and putting a lot of pressure on that connection. (Ice break up pressures might be even worse.)

I have helped buddies repair floating docks, but have never messed with the floatation barrels, so no clue about your ballast questions.

I highly encourage you to use a rectangular dock float. We looked at the feasibility of using barrels and decided it was not worth the hassle of trying to mount them to the dock and walkaway.

Here's a link to what we did: https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=269335

We did pull it back up and replace the floor with Trex and changed the outer railing. I will have to search if I have pictures of those.

Great looking dock project, jludwig!

I am also impressed that you got your dog to assist during the construction phase!

I made a floating dock on my personal pond from blue 55 gallon barrels and will NEVER make another floating dock from barrels. NEVER. I will use the floats from Dockbuilders Supply in Florida.

Too many issues with the barrels. 1) they leak and take on water, even though I put silicone sealer on the threads of the bungs as they were installed. 2) If you don't use blue barrels, the white ones crack in sunlight - no UV protection. 3) You cannot use trex or other composite wood with them, the joists have to be too far apart unless you somehow put the joists on top of the barrels and don't have the barrels nestled between the joists.

That's just the start of the list.........

Oh, if you want it to last more than 10 years you have to use treated lumber for ground/water contact. I didn't and it's literally rotting away even though the wood was never "in" the water. Also, if you use deck screws, they have to be stainless. My "coated" deck screws on the back porch rusted though after 12 years. The piers that I've made with stainless screws don't have any fastener failures.

Look at https://www.dockbuilders.com/shop-by-category/floating-docks.html

Their hinges, corner braces etc are top notch and they don't rust away. I used regular galvanized joist hangers. I got the stainless steel screws from Home Depot or McFeeley. Square drive screws.

I agree 100% with esshup about not using 55 gallon barrels for dock floatation. It might seem to be a cheaper alternative and a good idea. However in the long run the barrels are a poor choice for the long term benefits.

Bill, that was exactly what I was thinking. When I rebuild it next year I will use the floats from Dockbuilders Supply. Maybe Fireishot will weigh in, we used those floats for his floating dock, and hardware from Tommy Dock for his fixed dock on the forage pond.

Dogs love just hanging around us.

Thanks for the kind words FishinRod!