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bob_esper12 #557962 05/01/23 09:25 AM
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This link may help. The run to the pond you have several options and diameters to consider depending on slope and length of run. You DON'T want water settling in low spots in your transmission line if possible. Then you will want proper weighted line in the pond itself.

https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=557954#Post557954

Last edited by canyoncreek; 05/01/23 09:26 AM.
bob_esper12 #557963 05/01/23 09:28 AM
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That seems to solve the question of the lines. How about the pump itself? I'd imagine that'd be the expensive part? I've no clue how to size it.

bob_esper12 #557965 05/01/23 09:53 AM
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I'm not an expert on aeration but there are many threads where the basics are laid out. Using google search you may come up with several pondboss threads that help. The bottom line is you want to turn over (lift and move to the surface) roughly the entire water mass every 24 hours or so.

Most aeration companies will have specs on their pumps for lift or gallons per hour lift. You calculate how many gallons are in your pond by estimating a term called acre feet (google) To estimate acre feet you also need to know a bit about what the slope of your bottom is so you can guesstimate how much water is in your pond. A lot depends on surface area and then how gradual you go to depth and then how much of the depth is at the deep part.

I have a pond that probably is about half of yours. I"m about 0.25 acres at maximum fill and most of the time sits at about 0.22 acres surface area. My max depth is about 8' and my banks are typical about 2.5 to 3' run to every 1 foot drop in depth.

I chose the Vertex 1/4hp pump with a 2 membrane diffuser choosing a package that included the cabinet and weighted hose. I paid more for the package but also got help with sizing from their sales team and also help for years after the sale. I had to rebuild my vertex pump once due to known factory issues with the teflon wear parts. The rebuild kit was inexpensive and the new parts are improved with much longer expected life expectancy. I"m in MI and most northern pond owners only need to run their pump from say mid May to early Sept as we have plenty of cool air temps and wind action to aerate our pond without need for supplemental aeration. I don't put that many hours on and my cabinet stays cool and the filters really stay pretty clean from year to year.

If you get us an idea of gallons of water we can help size it. Since I have one base station, one output weighted hose and 2 diffuser heads my setup is fairly simple. It turns over the water at least once in 24 hours which is the right sizing for me. Once you know your water volume and layout of the pond you can decide if you want 2 separate base stations (some want one near a deep zone and one in a shallow zone to avoid having to move the deep one to shallow in the winter) Winter aeration is only needed if you feel conditions are right for winterkill. I never aerate in winter and have never had a recognized winter kill.

Last edited by canyoncreek; 05/01/23 12:10 PM.
bob_esper12 #557966 05/01/23 10:45 AM
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Looks like I may be able to aerate for around 1k. Once it's finished being dug i'll "dig deeper" into the numbers and see what's actually required. If that's the case i will probably pursue that this spring. I like the idea of getting the most Biomass possible in this smaller of a pond.

bob_esper12 #557970 05/01/23 11:46 AM
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I read my last post and there was an unintentional pun that the aeration experts probably are rolling their eyes about.

I said this... The 'bottom line' is that.....

Yes, keeping the line on the bottom is critical!!

The compressor, its air supply and its housing or protection to keep it cool is the part that is worth spending money on to get a good one. After that you can source your own tubing, design a manifold if you want 2 or 3 separate air lines although probably not needed in your scenario. You can buy the diffuser membranes and use standard PVC plumbing to attach to a base. Several threads show examples of ways to support the diffuser heads so they don't tip over and so that the plume is raised sufficiently off the bottom to not stir up mud.

bob_esper12 #557972 05/01/23 12:44 PM
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I'm planning on keeping the pump inside my shop and just running the line out to the pond (~500') away.

bob_esper12 #557977 05/01/23 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bob_esper12
I'm planning on keeping the pump inside my shop and just running the line out to the pond (~500') away.

The cleaner air in the shop should serve to increase your pump life.

Is the shop well vented? Heat build-up is the enemy of compressor pumps.

bob_esper12 #558016 05/03/23 10:38 AM
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Looking like the pond will be finished this week. We have several days of rain on the way so I'm expecting I'll have a decent amount of water in it a week from now. How long do I need to wait before adding FHM and BG? Do I need to do a PH check on it before dumping fish in it? Fertilizer?

bob_esper12 #558020 05/03/23 04:43 PM
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PH and alkilinity. At first, it will be muddy. Hold off on fish until it clears and you can check water quality. Watch it for awhile to assure that it is holding water.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
bob_esper12 #558033 05/04/23 07:31 AM
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Just use some pool test strips? Or is there something specific i need?

bob_esper12 #558035 05/04/23 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bob_esper12
Just use some pool test strips? Or is there something specific i need?


Correct. Just make sure they aren't out of date. You might want to check them against a known water supply if you have one, like water in the house.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
bob_esper12 #558040 05/04/23 10:28 AM
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I've got some strips for our hot tub, so that should be easy to do. I've wanted to put a pond on this property since we bought it a few years ago. It's super nice to see it finally coming together.

bob_esper12 #558132 05/08/23 11:42 AM
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What should i do for the deep water? i'll have about 40'x40' are thats a good 15' deep. Should i throw some stumps down in it?

bob_esper12 #558134 05/08/23 12:39 PM
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There is a current thread on that exact topic.

Open Water Cover

Hope that helps!

bob_esper12 #558137 05/08/23 12:52 PM
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I have a customer that doesn't want cover in his ponds. There are a few stumps and that's about it. He constantly struggles with low fish population and thin fish. The fish are swimming all the time and not loafing, so they are like marathon runners burning up calories.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

That's a 14" SMB that was 13 ounces.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
esshup #558138 05/08/23 01:18 PM
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I'm planning on putting tons of cover in the areas less than 8'. Just curious if something 12-15' below the surface would get much use.

bob_esper12 #558804 05/30/23 10:34 AM
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Still digging away. Some of the deeper holes will be right around 15-17’ deep with total surface acreage right over 1/2 acre.

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bob_esper12 #558807 05/30/23 11:28 AM
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Don't you average over 50" of rain/year around your place?

I think 17' should be deep enough, unless you are going to have lots of incoming sediment and/or organic matter.

The carrying capacity of a pond is more strongly dependent on surface acres, rather than depth.

Either way - congrats on your pond build project getting closer to fruition!

bob_esper12 #558810 05/30/23 12:16 PM
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We do, however it’s not costing me any extra so I’m just letting him dig away lol. If aerated I’d imagine that’d give me some cooler water year round?

bob_esper12 #558817 05/30/23 03:13 PM
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More water depth for free? I think EVERYONE on Pond Boss would take that deal!

Is he still digging in good clay? You might check in the deepest couple of spots and confirm that you have not reached a sand or gravel layer.

There is some debate on Pond Boss, but I think aerating in summer from the deepest part of the pond results in a higher average pond temperature. Maybe aerate from 12' deep? Or the depth of your deepest structure? That way, your pond stays cooler, but the fish located on or near the deepest structure will be in the column of aerated water.

bob_esper12 #559186 06/16/23 02:38 PM
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We are finally wrapping this project up. The dozer is finishing up the contouring today and Monday. Supposed to get several rains next week to add to the 2' thats already in the pond from the only real rain we've gotten since the initial hole was dug. . Unfortunately we've been really dry so i'm not sure how much run off will actually make it to the pond. My stocking plan now is to wait a couple weeks and test the water and then dump in some 3-5" BG with FHM and pellet feed all summer and let them make as many babies as possible. Thoughts?

bob_esper12 #559187 06/16/23 04:30 PM
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May be optimistic. Your first rain(s) will disappear into the new dirt. Wait until you get a water level that is being sustained.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
bob_esper12 #559189 06/16/23 09:07 PM
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"Thoughts?"

Seed, seed, seed!

Any area of bare dirt that is done being run over by equipment should be seeded for erosion protection ASAP!

You want the first bit of fill up that makes it to the pond to be clean water, NOT silt-laden mud.

Congrats on your almost finished pond!

bob_esper12 #559245 06/20/23 07:25 AM
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Well, the pond level has been set. Spill way is in and dirt work is almost completely finished. They just have one corner they have to dig out a little bit once it dries up enough to get trucks backed in to load them. Looking like we will be right at 1/3 acre, not the 1/2 I was hopeful for. He was concerned we wouldn't have enough water to fill up a much larger pond. Probably got 2-3 acre watershed right now. If in a year or two we have a full pond that stays full then It'll be easy enough to add 2' to the dam height.As it is the dam is only maybe 2-3' tall at most. That would get us right to 1/2 acre. We went ahead and dropped in the stumps we were saving. We've got 10-12 large stumps in 4-8' of water. Ready for this week of rain to hit and start hopefully putting some more water in the thing.

Last edited by bob_esper12; 06/20/23 07:53 AM.
bob_esper12 #559251 06/20/23 10:29 AM
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Yay on completing the pond!

10-12 stumps is what the bass call a "good start". Read the old structure threads and see if there are some good ideas that might work for your pond.

Structure - Pond Boss Archives


It is way easier to add structure now, compared to when the pond is full!

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