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dchance Offline OP
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Had a new 5 acre pond constructed last summer. It is now about 1 to 1.5 ft from being full. As expected it is brown colored with sediment. Question is, how long before it starts to clear up? Can I start adding gypsum now or will it not be effective since is isn't full yet?
Thanks.


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Do you have vegetation established all around the pond to prevent more dirt from being washed into the pond during a hard rain?


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No there is no real established vegetation yet.
It is my neighbors pond and she is wanting to dump a bunch of sheetrock in it and I am not thinking that is a great idea. Wanted to get advice here first.


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Originally Posted by dchance
No there is no real established vegetation yet.
It is my neighbors pond and she is wanting to dump a bunch of sheetrock in it and I am not thinking that is a great idea. Wanted to get advice here first.


No on the sheetrock. While it seems like a good idea, there isn't enough surface area exposed to the water to help much. It's better if it is ground up and pulverized.


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dchance Offline OP
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Posted this in the Soil forum above but thought it may get more answers here.

Had a new 5 acre pond constructed last summer. It is now about 1 to 1.5 ft from being full. As expected it is brown colored with sediment. Question is, how long before it starts to clear up? Can I start adding gypsum, alum or lime now or will it not be effective since is isn't full yet?
Thanks.


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Have you had your water checked to see what it needs?

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No sir. Is it too early to establish that yet if it isn't quite full?
Is there a grace period I should wait before I determine it needs help?


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Where are you with vegetation/erosion measures??

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To add to esshups comments, yer getting the cart ahead of the horse here.. Get the source of dirt flowing into the water fixed FIRST or this will be an on-going issue that will affect the pond for a LONG time to come.

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To add another angle to Derek's question, the new lite-weight sheetrock that they use these days, is there any actual gypsum in it anymore? does anyone know, or has researched it? not being a smartass, was just curious about that. I'm not sure there is any, or very much, used in the manufacturing of sheetrock anymore..


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dchance Offline OP
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Bretty bare around the lake from the dirt work. Guess I need to start there.


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Bullseye.. get a cover crop/grass started and water if ya can to get it up quick n thick.

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I'll go move that other thread over here, no need to get 2 answers to the same question,and it'll help clean up the forum.


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dchance I am in the same boat as you are with a new pond about a year ago. As the others have said to you, first is solve the sediment run off in the pond. I posted the same questions in the past and everyone's advice to me was spot on. I planted some rye grass around the pond to get some vegetation. After the first rain, all the seed washed into the pond. I then threw out more seed and covered it with erosion material and in a matter of a week I had rye grass sprouting up everywhere. Since i did that a few months ago, my pond is just now starting to clear to about 10" visibility. I was going to put some alum in to speed up the process but one of the most important things I have learned on this is "patience". And that my friend is the hardest thing for me to do but I am now beginning to see the fruits of my labor. Good luck with the pond.

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Well said Kevin.

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How about some pics? Half full, almost full? I had major work done on a 2 acre pond last Aug and it was hot (low pH) and was kinda clear.

1/2 full pH hella off w some sediment but clear with little or no microbe growth.
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]


Pond full, pH getting there and lots of microbe growth limiting the visibility. I believe I have suspended sediment as well and with help here I found out about Ag Gypsum as an amendment that I will apply to add Ca, attach to suspended sediment and drop to the bottom, it will also amend the pH a little. That info's down in pond water chemistry thread.
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

What's causing your visibility occlusion is the key.

Last edited by Stressless; 06/22/22 06:00 AM.

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I have a pond that is about an acre. It is solid clay and there is no vegetation on the sides or dam. It is probably about 3-4 feet deep now and when full will be about 15 feet deep. It is completely muddy. Is there anything I should do now to help it clear up or should I just wait. I am having much of my property hydroseeded. Should I have them do the banks of the pond and, if so, which seed should I use?

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Originally Posted by bonefish
I have a pond that is about an acre. It is solid clay and there is no vegetation on the sides or dam. It is probably about 3-4 feet deep now and when full will be about 15 feet deep. It is completely muddy. Is there anything I should do now to help it clear up or should I just wait. I am having much of my property hydroseeded. Should I have them do the banks of the pond and, if so, which seed should I use?

The sooner you can get plants growing around the pond the faster it should clear up if the turbidity is coming from rain washing clay into the pond.


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esshup has good information. Rain water rinsing down the the banks erodes or gathers surface sediment and clay into the drainage water. These fine colloidal particles due to extremely small sizes tend to settle very slowly. Certain clay soil has particles that have electrical charges the do not settle or settle very very slowly.
There are remedies for that special problem.
If you want to determine how fast your turbid pond water with suspended particulates will naturally settle,,,, collect some of the turbid water in a clear glass or plastic jar. The bigger the jar, the better the visual end results will be. 2qt jar is okay and 1 gallon+ size is better. Allow the water to sit undisturbed for 5-10 days. After several days to 2 weeks and lots of sediment is on the bottom and water is tap water clear, the pond water will naturally settle and clear up when undisturbed and shoreline is vegetated and or rock lined to minimize later full pond wind wave action and erosion. Some fish and invertebrate (animal) species can disturb bottoms sediments and create turbidity.


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In addition to clearing your water, getting your plants established on the banks and the dam are very important to stopping erosion BEFORE it gets a good start.

Once erosion cuts your finished topsoil profile, the water will selectively be diverted into the areas with the worst erosion and accelerate the problem.

The choice of grass seed (or any cover seed) depends on your preference and the setting of the pond. There are people on the forum that walk out of their back door and are then on the bank of their pond. Other people have forest ponds many miles from their home in the city. Do you want a manicured, mowed look, or do you want minimal maintenance?

If you post a picture of your pond and its setting, along with your goals, then I suspect the Texas posters can give you some good advice on grass options.

Good luck on your new pond project!

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I am going to hydwouldseed some cleared area. Should I hydroseed around the waters edge and, if so, would foxtail millet mixed with bermuda be a good blend to stop erosion?

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Best is to use no or low phosphorus in the hydroseeded areas. Phosphorus rinsed into the pond will cause lot of algae problems.


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Originally Posted by bonefish
I am going to hydwouldseed some cleared area. Should I hydroseed around the waters edge and, if so, would foxtail millet mixed with bermuda be a good blend to stop erosion?

Guys in Texas seem to like to use Bermuda around the ponds. Maybe some of the Texas pond owners can chime in.


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bonefish,

Have you ever introduced yourself to the conservationist at your county NRCS office?

It might be a good idea. They should know what grows best in the county for pond edges and erosion control.

There is even a chance they could have some grass seed leftover from their 2022 programs that they could give you, or sell you at a reduced rate!

Always worth a shot, and that is usually a good person to know anyway for future questions or problems.


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