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BLUF: I located a local water environmental test lab, they charge by the 'test' - I have no idea what to ask them to test?

Background:
I have a 70 y/o 1.75 SA strip mine pond located in East Central Ohio that had great fish in it. It drained, I fixed it, in so doing I 'opened' up about 75% of the strip mine spoil, shales clays etc. that was covered by decades of muck. That spoil is now exposed to direct contact with the pond water.

[Linked Image]


Prior to any stocking in the 'new' pond I want to ensure safe for vertebrates and if possible dialed in and the stocking will thrive.

There maybe a post somewhere on PB but my searches didn't uncover any.

The Lab charges by the "test" I.e., Alkalinity = $10, Phosphorous = $10, Heavy Metals $17.50 etc etc

What list of "water" tests would you/should I get?

What are acceptable bounds in those tests?

What remediation practices are available for the test -
Quote
Alkalinity -> Ag Lime
not the amounts just what can be done if anything?

Thanks in advance for any guidance. A link to somewhere that details this would be fine or discussion.
Stressless

Last edited by Stressless; 03/09/22 10:22 AM.

8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Stressless, I'll send you a PM in a minute.


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Unfortunately as expected Crescent Pond came back fairly hot - 5.1pH. Getting more tests done in the coming week or so.

Like to know if there are better Liming products for aquatic applications. I want to get it in the low 6's 6.3 6.4.

11'x60'x1100'. 95% confidence level on that volume.

Is there a good calculator for Cubic feet of water or gallons, Crescent Pond is 733800cf or 5,430,000 gallons to move pH like in AG applications?

Thanks in advance -

Stressless.


8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Stressless,

Here is a link for a study on strip pit ponds in Oklahoma. They calculated acceptable ranges for a huge number of water quality variables.

Even if it doesn't help you on the first step of raising your pH, it might provide you some useful information in the future.

Strip Pit Ponds - Oklahoma

Good luck on creating waters for happy fish!

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Ok... asking the other way dint work.

I've found to raise the pH 1 point in surface water say 5.1 to 6.1, one should add 1 ton of AgLime per 1SA of water. -- Does anyone know any different?

Is there an opinion on calcite or dolomite lime?

Last edited by Stressless; 04/18/22 02:27 PM.

8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Originally Posted by Stressless
Ok... asking the other way dint work.

I've found to raise the pH 1 point in surface water say 5.1 to 6.1, one should add 1 ton of AgLime per 1SA of water. -- Does anyone know any different?

Is there an opinion on calcite or dolomite lime?

Some light reading for you. http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/SRAC-Publication-No.-4100-Liming-Ponds-for-Aquaculture.pdf

grin


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Alright - Esshup.

Thanks for that - I've been food plotting for 5-6 years so the discussion isn't foreign to me. so it appears that a SA is equivalent to a 'reg' acre and treat it as you would "soil". to get from 5.1 pH to 6.8 pH my desired goal, I'ld add roughly 2T / acre. So I guess it's just that easy?

Note that to get it dialed in right the article you posted gives the formula to use once you know the NV and or the NE (which are different for each lime formulation)

Quote
If the liming requirement, neutralizing value (NV)
and neutralizing efficiency (NE) are known, it is possible
to calculate the precise amount of lime needed. Divide the
amount of liming material recommended (tons per acre)
by the product of the neutralizing value and the neutral-
izing efficiency (NV × NE).


8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Correct. SA = Surface Acre which is the same as an acre of dirt. In agriculture ponds, they typically aren't as deep as the recreational ponds, so more lime might be needed but it's a lot easier to add more than to take some out.


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Okay - so for soil tests on the spoil they have come back 4.7-5.0 at best, the water tested at 5.0 pH and I'm shooting for 7.0 pH. The COA's I took into consideration are the PITA issues to evenly spread crushed AgLime - cheapest by far but a huge labor (factor) to shovel it from container to something to get to the boat, shovel out/off and maybe get it on a plywood thing for a rowboat...

Next cheapest is Pelletized Lime - very easy to spread - plan to use both my and my neighbors quads with their 15gal Moultrie spreaders and

Next is a the powered lime Hydrated Lime which has a 1.27 to 1 pound used ENV and will dissolve/react overnight.

Plan:
Pond is 390 yards of shoreline on on side. We should be able to cover about 140 yrds edge to edge of the pond with the reach of the spreaders and then the rest of 250 yrds we'll get about 1/2 -1/3 covered with the spreaders.

Every 7 yards back the quad to pond edge and spread 2 bags or 80# of pelletized lime. 56 spreading points, that should burn 112 bags, leaving 70 to spread from the boat in areas that can't be reached from land.

We'll then take the hydrated lime (caustic) out on the boat and stop every 40 yards or so and mix 2 bags into the water.

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]


8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Be VERY careful with the hydrated lime. Change the pH too fast or too much and it will kill fish that can't escape it. Anything on the boat that it touches (especially aluminum) will get chewed up pretty quickly and over time unless you can neutralize the lime residue that is left.

Can you contact the local farm fertilizer place and have them back the lime spreader truck to the pond and let 'er fly?


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The lime is inthe water and i wish I hadn't gotten the high cal Hydrated lime. Tried to getrdone mixing prior to entering the water via 5 gallon buckets in the old rowboat.

That lasted 150# - horrible stuff to work with. I had a 3m respirator and it was required. Wound up spreading the last 850# by spreading on the water and rowing it in - very little wind so it pretty much just dissolved. I was in MOPP after trying to jut do the respirator and light clothing.

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Made a holder for the spreader that did a good job once I figured out the weight balance sequence- had a few hairy almost catastrophic issues but got the 2 Tons out in the pond spread (the others got spread from the edge but the throw was only about 14'-16'

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

I put 320#, eight 40# bags of pelletized in this lil' rowboat and me... plus the spreader and battery.... and it worked like a champ. Did that 320# 11 times... nice easy row and then a lil' excitement as I loaded 2 bags into the spreader and got back sitting down.

scrubbed it down afterward and washed it off with much fresh water.

Last edited by Stressless; 04/26/22 01:18 PM.

8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Dang! That was a load of arduous work you performed for your pond.

You might have to retire "Stressless" as your profile name for a week or so until you recover! grin

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Dang, that was a LOT of work.


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Gonna have the water checked proper in late May. Will go from there and no fish being added until after I check in May.


8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Ag or pelleted lime is much easier than hydrated lime and a lot less risky.

Have the soil tested as water always reflects the dirt composition.
















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Okay one month has passed - the water reached the overflow and the obvious turbidity (if I am using that term right) has increased with the rise in pH.

I had a member contact me and I'll be pulling a water sample to send off next week and post the results up.

Here's the before and after.

Applying the pelletized from where could reach the shore.
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

One month later.
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Last edited by Stressless; 05/26/22 09:25 AM.

8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Been 'away' back at the farm and just tested the pond.

pH spot on at 7.0
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Alkalinity I think is low at 21ppm.

Question - What is the "Desired" alkalinity ppm? I have powered gypsum to raise it and add calcium.

From - [url=https://wkrec.ca.uky.edu/files/alkhardness.pdf][/url]

Most aquatic organisms can live in a broad range of alkalinity concentrations. The desired total alkalinity level for most aquaculture species lies between 50-150 mg/L CaCO3 , but no less than 20 mg/L.

Last edited by Stressless; 10/31/22 11:12 AM.

8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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1ppm = 1 mg/l. 40 ppm/mg/l is minimum, I'd recommend anything over 50, but the higher the better. 100 would be nice! Our ponds in this area are naturally around 150+.

Think of the alkalinity in a pond like pH in soil. Too low and the organisms can't utilize the nutrients that are in the water. So if the alkalinity is low, don't fertilize - raise the alkalinity instead. If you fertilize THEN raise the alkalinity, you might have too much of a bloom.

Last edited by esshup; 10/31/22 11:14 AM.

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Dang Okay, thank you very much.... that's another ass craker chore...

So 50's the min ...

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Last edited by Stressless; 10/31/22 11:38 AM.

8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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The reason why I say 50 is because the minimum is 40. So you apply enough to reach the 40 mark. Then a few weeks later you test and find that it's in the mid 30's. So you have to get all the stuff together to apply it again. PITA right?? While it might be more work to apply enough to hit the 50 mark, (or higher) it's less work in the long run, especially if you have a flow thru condition.

A battery and an electric trolling motor would save a lot of work..........


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Ya -- I'm actually gonna shoot for something like 75-80 for just that reason. May reapply in '23 to try for 100 after a couple months and see where is settles out.

Just went and hand tossed 200# of Ultra fine I had in the barn. PITA. I 'm gonna noodle how to make a slurry pan with the the 4.5GPM pump I have to try pulverized gypsom... hang a intake off the rowboat, pump me and battery with 6-7 bags and a stern board to dump out a 50# bag and wash it in with the pump spray.


8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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Well - enve a blind pig finds an acorn once in awhile...

Got back to the farm and broke out the test kit.

2022 Apr pH 5.1
2022 Oct pH 7.0
2023 Apr pH 7.25
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Now I got a question for you chem guys out there - the test kit I have says use the tritrator until it goes from Blue/Green to Pink.
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

This is the Blue-Green at 0ppm added
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

@ 20ppm
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

@30 ppm
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

@40ppm
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

@50ppm
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

@75ppm
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

@110ppm
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

@140ppm
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

@150ppm
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Please put below what PPM you judge to be "Pink" I know where I did.

In Oct 2022 I test and think I had about the same color but it turned much "pinker" much quicker. I did the alkalinity and pH twice each and got the same results.


2022 Oct Alkalinity I guessed but I think I was low but it was >=50ppm
2023 Apr Alkalinity (I may do the mean of guesses lol or what I think it came out but interested in opinion - why they don't have this in a gradianet slide - I don;t know.

It's got a good color, looks live with lots of organic going on. I think it akin to "soil Health in that get the chemistry right, trying to nudge nature to make her thing happen, coat the bottom with inches of organic matter to help insulate the water from the reactive elements I turned up fixing the issue.
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Last edited by Stressless; 04/16/23 04:48 PM.

8 Ponds in Mid-East Ohio, three streams that merge to 1.

Fishbowl Pond - 1.5 acre, family swimming hole, 22'
Figure 8 Pond - 1.25 acre, 12'
Crescent Pond - 2 acre 11'
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My guess from results from my experience (different type of test kit) is when it goes from blue/green to full light red. Looks like 30-40 ppm. But that is from pics and as we all know color is based on available light.

Last edited by ewest; 04/18/23 10:51 AM.















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To take the variables out we just send the water sample out to be tested.


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Originally Posted by esshup
To take the variables out we just send the water sample out to be tested.

If that is what "pond pros" do, then it is almost certainly good advice for amateurs.

What are the components you most commonly get analyzed? What is the ball park cost for that level of testing?

If an amateur does have a pond that is going to require a lot of testing, then I think it would be an excellent idea to confirm that your personal tests closely match with the lab results.

There is an old engineering saying that applies. "The only thing worse than no data, is bad data!"

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