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#552287 09/21/22 10:31 AM
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Hello All!

My Dad and I had a pond built this summer and was completed a few weeks ago. Looking like we are going to have a 3.5 acre pond, with 14-16 ft max depth down by the dam. We've been busy placing structure - rock stacks, pallet structures, wood structures, logs, and plastic structures. Already starting to fill up from a few rounds of rain (still a long way to go). My dad has declared that I am the "pond manager", so I've joined this forum seeking info and guidance from all you experts!! I love to crappie/bluegill/redear fish, so hoping to someday have a nice little honey hole!

The amount of information on this forum is mind boggling! I would like to thank all who participate in providing this info for all to learn.

Sincerely,
Ty

Ty Smith #552289 09/21/22 11:33 AM
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Welcome to Pond Boss, Ty!!

If you can figure out how to post some pictures, please do so.


Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:"
"She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."

Sunil #552293 09/21/22 01:31 PM
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Attempting some pics.

Ty Smith #552294 09/21/22 01:41 PM
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A few pics.

Attached Images
18818.png (513.88 KB, 61 downloads)
18822.png (1.03 MB, 47 downloads)
18828.png (702.21 KB, 49 downloads)
18830.png (451.37 KB, 45 downloads)
18832.png (1009.97 KB, 54 downloads)
Ty Smith #552296 09/21/22 02:33 PM
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You've got some nice structure and contour going on!!!

I would add more structure if possible.


Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:"
"She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."

Sunil #552299 09/21/22 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Sunil
You've got some nice structure and contour going on!!!

I would add more structure if possible.

A LOT more. Place it in what will be 3'-6' of water AND in the deepest water too. When I say a lot more, I mean a lot. You will want to have roughly roughly 7/8 of an acre of cover in the pond for the fish. Get it in now before it fills up and it will be a lot easier. There is a good cover thread in the archives section of the forum.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Ty Smith #552303 09/21/22 06:36 PM
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Essup and Sunil, Absolutely! just getting started with the structure. If i remember correctly from info on this site, we need roughly 20% of acerage of the pond to be structure? Trying to work from deep to shallow to keep up with the filling up. We put 4 logs in, raised up on stone a couple feet off the bottom...big rain storm came in and we didnt get finished securing the logs...3 weeks later (this past weekend) i had to go wading to get them back in place and secured! We've got lots more materials for sturcture. I'm trying to get a nice balance of plastic and wood for the remaining structure. Most of the rock/concrete is in place now...hopefully! We need to work on seeding the back side of the dam as well as around the pond water edge. We plan on putting in a small boat ramp as well. Lots to do! Thanks for any and all input!

Ty

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Last edited by Bill Cody; 09/21/22 07:01 PM.

aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine -
America's Journal of Pond Management
Ty Smith #552306 09/21/22 07:04 PM
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Fish love piles of rocks and brush/woody cover. If you want to make it even more attractive to them put wood near rock piles, the perch/bluegills seem to be drawn to that more than just rocks or wood/brush alone.


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Ty Smith #552311 09/21/22 08:09 PM
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The original 20% suggestion for cover habitat usually applied mainly for the amount of vegetation for best production of pond fisheries. For artificial habitat I suggest 10% - 20% of the total shoreline length have cover materials other than or in combination with plants to provide resting areas, shade, and escape cover for fishes. These materials also serve as fish attractors.
Suitable materials include:
• Brush piles constructed with green cedar trees
• Other trees or brush if cedars are not available
• Clean rubble, cement blocks, and clay tiles or pipe.
All woody material should be weighted individually with rocks and sunk, or several branches or trees may be anchored together with concrete blocks.

Possibly the best attractor is comprised of a combination of several materials which provide both loosely packed and dense cover.
PLACEMENT
The location of the attractor is very important, but water depth is the single most important factor.
Potential Sites:
• Points of land which extend out into the water and then drop off rapidly into deeper water are good sites.
• Coves or other areas sheltered from the wind are also excellent sites.
• In small ponds, the area of deep water near the dam is an excellent spot for fish attractors.
• If your pond has a submerged creek channel a structure placed on the edge of it will usually produce good results.
Attractors should be placed in water so that the top is not more than four to six feet under water. See Fish IDing link below for best depths. The grouping of attractors is important; groups of three arranged in a triangular design seem to attract more fish than three scattered single units.


https://mdc.mo.gov/sites/default/files/2022-02/fish_attractors_Jan2022_1.pdf

Good article from PB Magazine about cover and placement.
https://www.solitudelakemanagement.com/blog/helpful-tips-when-installing-artificial-habitat/

Ideas from Indiana DNR.
https://www.in.gov/dnr/fish-and-wildlife/files/fw-providing_structure_for_fish.pdf
For panfish utilize:
Pennsylvania Post Clusters Structure
Open Pallet Structures in groups
Hoosier Cubes

Submerged Trees and Brush Piles
Other options for natural structures include brush piles, submerged trees, or other natural debris. Turning these commonly found materials into structures are a great way to utilize otherwise useless scraps. You will want to place trees and brush piles in vertical positions rather than horizontal and at a depth of less than 15 feet (figure 3). This will allow fish to be able to use the structure year-round. When structures are placed too deep, the fish are unable to access them due to the lack of dissolved oxygen. It is often helpful to anchor trees, either with rocks or concrete blocks. It is also more effective to group trees to make a larger brush pile than having individual trees spread out. Submerged trees can provide excellent habitat, although not for an extended period. For example, Christmas trees are often used in ponds and lakes as a habitat option but decompose relatively quickly.

Good lengthy lesson of fish habitat
https://www.fishiding.com/recent-fi...tractors-which-do-the-fish-need-and-why/

The idea is to create as thick and complex a jungle as possible. The final result will resemble a thick mass of long branches extending from the dense pack inside the habitat unit/s. The branches should reach from every depth of every unit in every direction and at every possible angle. If your finished habitat unit looks even vaguely tidy, it needs more work.

Underwater diving studies have shown that artificial habitat of which the fish prefer most, stands a minimum of 1/2 the water depth, with 2/3 or more being much better. Objects standing from bottom to surface were utilized most by the largest number of fish, bugs and creatures.


aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine -
America's Journal of Pond Management
Ty Smith #552314 09/22/22 07:04 AM
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Thanks Bill & Esshup for the info. I'll study up and work on incorporating these ideas into the pond.

Ty Smith #552317 09/22/22 09:32 AM
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Always keep in mind there is IMO a BIG difference between structure - habitat refuge versus fish attractors. Main difference I think is quantity and placement.


aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine -
America's Journal of Pond Management
1 member likes this: Ty Smith
Ty Smith #552323 09/22/22 10:40 AM
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10-4 Bill!

Ty Smith #552328 09/22/22 02:55 PM
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Welcome Ty. Leave the bluegills alone. They are the number one forage fish.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
Ty Smith #552476 09/29/22 07:05 AM
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Hello everyone, how are you doing?

Last edited by linetta4; 09/29/22 07:06 AM.
linetta4 #552480 09/29/22 09:22 AM
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Welcome to the forum! We have some simple forum rules, here's a link to what they are:

https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=92424#Post92424

Also there is this:

https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=318186#Post318186

I just threw these up in case you didn't see them previously.

Cody Note: Linetta - are you here to sell something? Do you have a pond???

Last edited by Bill Cody; 09/29/22 07:06 PM.

www.hoosierpondpros.com


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).

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