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#549597 06/23/22 09:54 AM
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A few weeks ago my pond reached levels that it has never been before and my Gast 0523 was submerged for an extended period of time. How do I get it back up and running and what is the process for figuring out what pieces to replace. OR, am I just absolutely screwed and need to replace it?

My emergency overflow on the pond wasn't low/wide enough to handle the extra rain so I had a damn breach for the first time. Once summer kicks in and the level drops a bit I am going to have it fixed.

Thanks for the help in advance!

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Full submersion of motor in water could easily ruin the start switch. It is best to do this before rust forms in the rotor cavity. ASAP Take off the 2 front end plates. Then with an allen wrench remove the rotor ring. Now your task is to sand or buff ALL the visible rust. If the rotor is seized use bearing solvent to help loosen it so it turns. Test run the pump to see if electronics are okay.. If the rotor has extensive rust the vanes will likely need to be broken to get them out of the slots. If any vanes are broken get a rebuild kit with new vanes, Orings and filters. Reassemble.


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Thank you sir! I appreciate it! I'll give it a shot asap.

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Welp, everything is rusted and and in really bad shape so I am going to replace it. The model is a 0523-126Q-G588NDX. My question is what is difference between other 0523 models and this one? This one was doing well, but since I have to buy another one I figured it'd be smart to look around. The wife is already expecting it to be around $500, so I need to stay close to that.

Thanks

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The difference in model numbers within the 0523 series has to do with the following variables...

Voltage,
Frequency,
Thermal Protection - Yes/No,
Regulatory Approvals, &
Accessories like, gages & filters.

I don't see your model number on their website. You may have typo'd it OR It may have been replaced. I bought the Gast 0523-101Q-G588NDX which is a plain-no-frills model and have been very happy with it. This one should be very, very similar to yours given you are using 110 or 220 voltage and 60 Hz. Keep in mind that they come wired for one voltage and may need to be rewired to fit your needs. It is easy to do and the diagram is on the name plate...you just need to make sure it's wired properly before you plug it in.


Fish on!,
Noel
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Most any 0523 will work for your needs. All new models 0523 are 1/4hp. If you want verification of the compressor model you are considering just link the info here and we can verify if it is okay for your pond aerator.


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I ended up just getting this one from septic solutions since it seems like they will all work.

https://www.septicsolutions.com/sep...523-rotary-vane-pond-aeration-compressor

Since it has been off for a month and we are in the dead of summer I am assuming that the startup procedure will be like normal? 15 minutes the first day, then double it until I reach 8-10 hours? The last two years I only ran it from dusk to dawn to try and avoid over heating the pond. Sound right?


Thanks again.

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I would consider swapping the "air filter" shown in your link to a round paper style filter like you see on old compressors. That one looks like it would clog up pretty quick...just my 2¢. Otherwise, the pump should be just fine and you found a good price on it!

15 minutes to start and double daily is the rule of thumb UNLESS you smell "the stink" and then most will hold that day and try again the next to keep advancing.

As far as running at night...this may just be my odd pond, but I have found that I get the best DO levels running 24/7 until my water heats up to the low to mid 80s...then I cut back to running at nights until the daily high temps back off. This does drop the DO levels during the night-time-only periods, but I believe it's better than cooking the fish. My pond seems to have low DO levels to begin with so, I try to maximize that rather than keep lower more comfortable temps.


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That is a good standard rotary vane compressor. Quarter acre is correct, that filter on the SS pump should have the felt filter pads changed annually. Find a better larger filter. Or wrap a fine mesh cloth bag or cloth layers around the filter and wash the bag each year. Compressor needs a good amount of free flow air to work optimally.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 07/01/22 06:50 PM.

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Here is the filter I used, for example,...

#4369K31 Corrosion-Resistant Air-Intake Filter, 1/4 NPT Male, 10 scfm @ 100 PSI Maximum Flow Rate

https://www.mcmaster.com/4369k31/

It comes with the filter element, but I also bought a spare...

#4369K38 2-1/4" High Paper Element for Corrosion-Resistant Air-Intake Filter

https://www.mcmaster.com/4369K38/

That was 4 years ago and the spare is still on the shelf. I take the filter out every year and blow it out (blowing from the inside outward). I check the condition of the filter by running the pump without it, note the pressure gage reading, then compare that to the pump running with it. When it was new, the pressure reading difference was barely noticeable on the gage. I will replace the filter when it shows a 1/2 psi or more.

Side Note, along with everything else...the filter assemblies have gone from $16 to $20 while the replacement filter has jumped from $2.50 to $3.13 (in the last 4 years). There are cheaper places to get your filters besides McMaster Carr. Their prices are typically higher than others since they cater to convenience.

A DIY prefilter that Bill mentioned is a nice addition. The pressure difference method to check the filters ability to pass air can be applied to the DIY system too whether it's for designing the prefilter or checking for a clogged filter.


Fish on!,
Noel

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