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#542497 12/31/21 04:42 PM
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Hi!

I am looking for advice on my DIY pond aeration set up. The two ponds are connected by a culvert when the ponds are full. Big pond is approximately 2.8 acres and small pond is 1/10 of an acre. As for depths, I only have estimates but I will try. Big Pond has a deep section around Diffuser 3 of about 20-30 feet. Small pond is 6-12' deep. Diffuser 2 and 4 will probably be 6 to 12 feet of water.

Here is what I cobbled together and I want your opinion if my idea is sound or completely wrong, lol.

1. Compressor
https://tinyurl.com/46jp73p3

2. Underground Airhose-
1" Pex

3. Diffusers--
I was having a hard time deciding between the kasco diffuser because of its efficiency vs the Vertex diffusers everyone here seems to love. Cast your vote below if you don't mind. I am leaning towards Vertex, but I am
not sure how many heads I should put at each station.

4. Manifold
https://www.amazon.com/Fawn-Lake-Manifold-Stainless-Aluminum/dp/B0893FQYJ5?th=1 I wanted to keep an extra port open in case of expansion

5. Air Hose
I am planning on 1/2" ID self sinking

6. Compressor House
I was just going to build my own, insulate it, and have a fan blowing at the compressor

Length of Airhose Runs

From Compressor to Manifold- 300'

From Tee to diffuser 1---100'

From Manifold to Diffuser 2 ----165'

From Manifold to Diffuser 3---- 325'

From Manifold to Diffuser 4----137'



Also, does anyone have a good recommendation for pond dam repair. There is a seep on one part of the dam.

Thanks for whatever help you can give!

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I would use 1/2"-5/8" ID Self sink line for aeration line in the pond. Why use Pex when the black poly line is even less expensive for running underground? I'd use 1" line underground. The longer the run, the more resistance and less air flow you will have. That's the reason for going with a larger ID line - less resistance.

You can make your own manifold out of PVC pipe and fittings, using either brass ball valves or plastic ones, although I have noticed that the plastic ones are a lot harder to turn.

Talk to teehjaeh57 on here for the seep repair.

Last edited by esshup; 01/01/22 05:36 PM.

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Esshup,

Thanks for replying!
1. Thanks, I will look into the poly. We had a couple hundred feet of pex on hand would be the only reason why we would use it.

2. How long do you think a run needs to be before I should upgrade from 1/2" to 5/8"? 1/2" is significantly cheaper, but I don't want to use a product that wont work.

3. Maybe I will make my own manifold. I was reading somewhere else on this forum that sometimes PVC isn't as easy to make small adjustments on.

4. Would you happen to know how much CFM a diffuser can handle? For example, if there is 3 cfm, is it better to run all through one diffuser or is better to split into 3? Scratch the CFM question, I see that it is on the item description at your store/ Are Vertex diffusers good below 16'? Or do I need to look for a different diffuser below that depth?

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I have a customer that is using Vertex diffusers in 28 feet of water.

I have never done a comparison between 1/2" and 5/8". Only between 3/8" and 1". For us, it's easiest just to run 1". Less inventory we have to worry about keeping track of, and less figuring. For us up here, the difference between 3/8" and 1" is huge when it comes to worrying about it freezing up in the winter with any condensation if there is a dip in the line underground too.

No PVC isn't as easy to adjust. While they aren't cheap I've switched to 2" brass ball valves and gate valves for moving water vs. the PVC valves after breaking some of the handles off on the PVC ones.


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Originally Posted by esshup
While they aren't cheap I've switched to 2" brass ball valves and gate valves for moving water vs. the PVC valves after breaking some of the handles off on the PVC ones.

Hulk esshup smash!

In all seriousness, any decent 2" valve is starting to get a little bit pricey. However, 2" brass is only a little more than 2" pvc.

esshup,

In your experience,

1.) Is the brass better when you get some hard grit (probably silt) in the valves?

2.) Is the brass better (to flex a little and avoid cracking) when a freeze gets to your system when it was still full of water?

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I hope to never test the freezing theory. The PVC will break easily. I had one facing vertical on a 24" vertical 2" stub pipe. Left water running through the 4" pipe below it. It got below freezing one night (I forget how cold it got but it was either in the teens or low 20's). next morning there was a geyser of water shooting up in the air and all over the breaker box. I shut the main power off to kill the pump, then shut off the pump at the breaker box before turning the power back on.

I have the system set up so that if I shut off the pump, I unscrew an end cap and all the water will drain out of the pipes. I open the ball valves anyway, as I had ANOTHER one collect some water on the top side of the ball and crack the valve even though the system was drained of water.

The brass ones seem to have teflon seals to rub on the stainless ball. They sure do open/close a LOT easier than the PVC ones.

My hose bibs are the same way, they are full flow 3/4" ball valves, on 3/4" PVC pipe. I can shoot water 25 feet from the end of the 50' 3/4" dia hose. I shut them off and drain them, cracking open the ball valve to let any excess water drain out. I cracked one that I didn't open and didn't find the crack until I turned everything on again in the Spring.

I'd use the frost proof hose bibs, but they have such a small opening in them there isn't enough water volume going through them for me.


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Thanks esshup.

I don't want to test the freezing theory either! Unfortunately I have seen too many episodes where I left water in a system because I had several more weeks of work to pursue and the meteorologist said "34" for the low and we hit "28"!

I think I will take your advice and go with brass valves for most of my future projects.

(Even though I am south of you, my systems still need to be drained for winter. I was just trying to determine the "marginal" benefit of the brass.)

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Brass/bronze valve bodies will split if they freeze hard.
Heat tape failure on one of my outdoor taps last winter resulted in a big mess when the weather warmed up.

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Yeah they will split. So will brass sharkbite fixtures on pex pipe. It may be easy, but buying the tool to properly crimp is the way to go. We had a pump in a well house completely crack open during last years freeze. It was somewhat fortunate because it drained all the lines in the house.

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Augie,

How's your forage pond doing? Was it a worthwhile endeavor? The 1/10th acre pond started looking like a good candidate for a forage pond after reading yours and snrubs forage pond threads.

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Esshup,

Do y'all sell the 1" weighted line? I was pondering running underground airhose around the pond to make sure enough air gets to the deep diffuser, but 1" weighted would mean a lot less digging.

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Forage pond is doing great. In fact, I like it so much that I'm trying to figure out where I can make another one just to keep a stock of FHM.
I put several hundred in the one, but there's nowhere to hide in that pond. The BG wiped them out in no time.

Getting ready to run lines isn't much work when you can take a five minute walk, make a couple tosses with a cast net, and come
out with enough bait for the whole weekend.

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Originally Posted by TexasTalara
Esshup,

Do y'all sell the 1" weighted line? I was pondering running underground airhose around the pond to make sure enough air gets to the deep diffuser, but 1" weighted would mean a lot less digging.

Yes, but you probably could get away with the standard weighted airline. We have done runs of 800 feet supplying air to an XL5 airstation (5 diffuser disks) and there was plenty of air volume.

How far do you have to run the line?


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The longest run will be a little over 300 feet from the manifold

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Originally Posted by TexasTalara
The longest run will be a little over 300 feet from the manifold


Piece of cake, just use the regular 1/2" - 5/8" ID weighted tubing.


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