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Augie #540342 10/04/21 11:03 PM
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^^^^ I believe that most ponds are limited in carrying capacity by chemical constraints (nitrification process) or by O2 levels, food usually isn't an issue in ponds that have enough nutrients in them, or ponds where artificial food is used. O2 levels can crash summer or winter.


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
jpsdad #540349 10/05/21 08:47 AM
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We don't typically experience extended periods of ice here. 2-3 weeks in a bad winter. My pond has a high volume for its size thanks to the depth,
but I do intend to set a diffuser up shallow this winter, and run it 24/7 when air temps are below freezing, just to be on the safe side.

The bluegill wars will continue this fall, until the water cools to the point that I can no longer catch/trap/net them.
The HSB are so stinking expensive that I can't bring myself to start harvest of them until they size up a bit.
I want one more spawn out of the YP before I begin to harvest them.

esshup #540350 10/05/21 08:58 AM
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Is there a particular field test kit/device that you could recommend for checking ammonia/nitrate levels, or is that something that
can only be done with a lab test? Either way, I should send a bottle of water to the TAMU lab asap so I know current state.

DO meter is already on the Christmas list.

Augie #540359 10/05/21 11:27 AM
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Augie, a standard test kit for an aquarium will be fine.


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Augie #540361 10/05/21 12:15 PM
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The API Pond Master Test Kit is pretty handy to have, affordable, and should last a few years even with extraordinary frequent pond water testing. I use it and it tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and phosphate.


Fish on!,
Noel
Augie #540362 10/05/21 01:39 PM
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Outstanding! I appreciate all of the advice on this one.

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