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#540065 09/26/21 03:36 PM
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Can anyone tell from picture if this is chara or some type of niaid? Doesn’t have strong smell people talk about with chara. I’ve tried cutrine/diquat mixture early in season and it may slow it a little but not real effective. I’ve tried hydrothol granular same limited effectiveness. Seems to gradually increase along shallow banks. Thinking about trying fluridone which I’ve never used to see how it works as I also have some persistent curly leaf pondweed I’d like to kill. Obviously if this is chara the fluridone won’t touch it as it doesn’t work against algae only plants.
I can’t get the picture to load here but it’s over in the gallery section was able to load picture there.

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I cannot very well see the needed structures for identification of Chara nor Niaid. From a far distance it looks more like Chara than Niaid. Try to get some close up pictures of 2 to 4 stems of it laying in 1/2" of water in a shallow disk or pan. If you used the correct concentration of Diquat it should have killed most all the Niaid. Using Cutrine/Diquat too early in the season's low water temp could have minimized the effectiveness. Water temp should have been in high 60s - 70F.


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You have your Chara-Niaid dilemma posts scattered in several places. This scatters your answers. From your Sep 27 picture the plant still looks like Chara to me. I am still not getting a close enough look at the leaves and the short branching. It is hard to be 100% positive if I don't have it in my hand. Chara and Najas they both at times can look very similar. Look closely at the leaves if they are flat it is Najas. If leaves are roundish it is Chara. Another feature of Najas is the leave tips often curve downward. Often with some Najas species the toothed edges of the leaves are easy to see.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 09/27/21 08:36 PM.

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I added a better picture in the gallery. I’ve always thought it was probably chara but wanted to ask the experts. I treated it today with a whole gallon of diquat and two gallons of cutrine in 10 gallons of water applied with tank sprayer behind my mower. Previously used a gallon of cutrine with about 15 oz of diquat. We’ll see how that works. I also have some American pondweed that’s getting more widespread than I’d like. I kill it with diquat but comes back fast. I was reading about fall applications of fluridone. Considering it to kill the pondweed to the root so hopefully less comes back next year. Never used fluridone as I want some weeds for fish habitat but not so much that it’s an eyesore. I also use phoslock last 2 years which really helped prevent filamentous algae I used to have a problem with. I’ll add phoslock again this fall when everything dies from the fluridone. That’s my plan anyway. I guess if the bushy pondweed disappears from the fluridone I’ll know it wasn’t chara. Any thoughts on my plan?

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Just saw your previous reply I’ll take a look at it tomorrow thanks a lot!

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I think you are wasting your money on diquat if it is Chara. You did not tell us how big the pond is. The diquat and Cutrine needs to be at the correct final pond concentration for a good kill. If I was wanting to spot kill just partial areas of submerged weeds I would be using a granular compound such as hydrothol or even granular 2-4D at the correct effectiveness for the labeled weeds. Granular Cutrine-Plus for Chara. Floridone will kill all your submerged plants including all the long leaf (American) pondweed. When I have Chara I use grass carp and/or especially tilapia who really like Chara when enough numbers are added. Tilapia denude my pond of Chara each summer. BEAWARE THAT WHEN AND IF YOU KILL ALL THOSE CURRENT POND PLANTS THAT ARE CONSUMING LOTS OF DISSOLVED NUTRIENTS MOST IF NOT ALL THOSE KILLED PLANTS WILL BE REPLACED IN BIOMASS OF FILAMENTOUS ALGAE(FA). Nature demands something use the available nutrients. Currently it is your submerged leafy plants keeping lots and lots of FA reduced.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 09/27/21 08:55 PM.

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And since you are in Illinois, you cannot legally stock Tilapia.

It's best to read the label on the herbicides and follow the labeled directions. More is not better, you can shock the plant when the herbicide first contacts it so it shuts down and doesn't uptake ANY herbicide, then you've just wasted your $$$.

You cannot spot treat with liquid Fluridone - you have to do the whole pond. You *might* be able to treat a certain area with Fluridone granules, but if you do you most likely have bleed over because the fluridone has to be in contact with the plant for 30-45 days.

I know a lady that treated the water in front of their lake house with the Fluridone pellets. She applied about $2,000.00 worth of pellets in an area that was 50' x 150' That kept the weeds at bay for 3 years. Today's prices that would probably equate to more than $3,000.00.

I am going to go and delete the other duplicate threads to clean up the forum, I will leave the images in the photo gallery. This is the most appropriate place for this particular question, so this one will stay.

You may want to use a mix of cutrine plus and Endothall. (Aquathol K or Aquathol Super K) Late in the season the algae that might be present on the plant will stop the herbicide from getting to the plant. Hydrothol 191 can be toxic to fish so you have to be careful how you apply it.


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I was able to look again looks like it is chara. The diquat/ cutrine I sprayed does seem to be killing the chara in the shallow area where I really hammered it. The rest of the shoreline that has chara just about a foot out it seems like it just killed the top of it but the rest underneath is still alive. That’s ok seems like some chara is good for my water quality just gets to be an eyesore in the shallow end of my pond. Pond is .75 acres well aerated. Mostly open aside from the American pondweed along one shore that goes about 5 feet out from shore for the length of the pond. I think I’ll try the grass carp like you sugggested next spring and just spot treat the pondweed for now. Thanks for the advice.

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Two or three grass carp in 0.7ac for starters should after 2 years get most of the Chara out of the shallow area. If not, in the 3rd year add the 4th grass carp. You always want some chara to help use nutrients so you have plant competition and don't have as much FA.


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This is excellent advice and everything I’ve experienced managing chara with GC supports this 100%. But of course it does, I learned it from Bill originally! grin


Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau

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