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#540080 09/26/21 10:44 PM
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We have placed some cedar trees in our new pond that has not been filled up yet. How much cinder block do we need to weigh down a tree? Aldo how do we tie the wire to the block and trees.

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I used 550 cord, I was worried about the wire rusting away and the trees floating. No idea how many to use per tree, 5-6 Christmas Trees will stay sunk with one 8"x8"x16" cinderblock.


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Cinderblock is good. I'd also recommend digging a hole in the bottom or the shoreline for the trunk & refilling.


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If in a dry lake bottom then stake them down with large wooden stakes and trot line string . When the water gradually covers them they will waterlog and stay in place. Can also do this with standing trees .

Ray Scott method

[Linked Image]


See structure archive for info.

https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=92463#Post92463

Last edited by ewest; 09/27/21 10:05 AM.















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I put a bunch of freshly-cut cedars in my pond before it filled.

Didn't use any ballast. Green cedars won't float, then they waterlog and stay put.

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My experience also. I stake a post (1-2 inch tree delimbed) into pond bottom in about 10 ft of water. Then tie (with trot line string) a few green xmas/cedar trees to it with extra line. After a few weeks I cut the string . Over time I end up with a large mass (pyramid) of water logged trees from bottom to surface.

Lots of options with this approach. Can measure string so that trees hang in water at set depths or in shaped stacks or some horizontal and some vertical.

Last edited by ewest; 09/30/21 10:04 AM.















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When setting limbed trees (like in the Ray Scott drawing) in a pond, how much do you have stick out above the water level at normal pool?

I would like the tree locations to be visible for casting to cover, but don't want to create restaurant seating for cormorants?

Do I need to keep the treetops below the water surface and mark with floats?

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When I placed my green cedars in pond before it started filling, I threw a bucket or two of dirt on them w/ skid steer. Holding in place fine and created a little mound of cover

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Originally Posted by FishinRod
When setting limbed trees (like in the Ray Scott drawing) in a pond, how much do you have stick out above the water level at normal pool?

I would like the tree locations to be visible for casting to cover, but don't want to create restaurant seating for cormorants?

Do I need to keep the treetops below the water surface and mark with floats?

The Osage Orange root wads that I put in my pond were placed with just a few sprig (1 to 2 " thick) above the water level, 4 or 5 years ago. The limbs that extended above the water have since rotted off, but the submerged wood is still very solid. My point is that what is above the water will disappear more quickly than the below.

I am not familiar with the cormorants, luckily, but I would consider keeping the trees well enough below the water and marking the areas with floats. I would drive poles into the pond bottom and leave it a foot from the surface and then tie a cheap duck decoy to it. This way the the short rope can be replaced every few years without having several feet of rotting rope left wondering around the pond. If your tree structure is substantial enough and approaches the surface...just tie to it.


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Noel,

Thanks for the advice. I was planning on using Osage Orange branches. I have lots to prune back for better tractor lanes, etc.

In my experience the branches last forever and the roots are very soft. I have never dealt with root balls - so I don't know where they lie on that spectrum.

I like your idea for "duck decoy" markers. Probably more attractive than a white bleach jug!

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Originally Posted by FishinRod
Noel,

Thanks for the advice. I was planning on using Osage Orange branches. I have lots to prune back for better tractor lanes, etc.

In my experience the branches last forever and the roots are very soft. I have never dealt with root balls - so I don't know where they lie on that spectrum.

I like your idea for "duck decoy" markers. Probably more attractive than a white bleach jug!

Just a FWIW. Duck decoys last 2-3 years before they start taking on water. They love to twist the rope they are tied with, and they never seem to untwist the rope.


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My cheap 10 pack of decoys (from Bass Pro) has done well for 4-5 years now. One of them did get the head chewed up by a snapper, I assume, but still managed to stay afloat. I tie two decoys to each of my diffusers...one tied to the rope and another tethered to the first with a stout piece of steel rod (about 1/10" diameter). This rod keeps them from tangling together. Should one go down, the second acts as a backup. They do twist the rope, but that has not posed a problem in my pond. The pond gets less than normal wind action and only varies about 10 inches in water depth throughout the year. Keep in mind that I am marking my diffusers which get pulled most years for cleaning and rope inspection.

A true buoy would be best, but I'm too cheap for that (​lol) and the granddaughter likes the looks of the ducks.


Fish on!,
Noel

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