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Most Online3,612 Jan 10th, 2023
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 19
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OP
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 19 |
Thanks so much, truly appreciate info regarding what you experienced this year. You all have put my mind at ease a bit, really hope we get some decent rains. It really is stressful seeing so much of the bank exposed, start thinking the worst.
Thanks for your help
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 19
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OP
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 19 |
Excellent points and advice Aggie. Tons of wisdom on this forum.
Thank you all so much!
Thanks for your help
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 18
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 18 |
I'm guessing that in future years your trees will be taking more and more water from the pond as the trees get bigger and bigger. Their impact on the water level may not be all that noticeable in a wet year, but in a dry year they will be trying to get the water they need from the nearest available source. Tree roots naturally grow towards their water source; that's why they have a tendency to plug sewer lines.
What about cutting down only some of the trees? That would leave some shade, cut down on the amount of leaves, and cut down on the amount of water they are stealing from the pond, especially if the trees you kept were the ones that were further back from the pond.
As for burning the leaves while they are on the trees, it's likely that the heat from the burning leaves would damage the end buds for next year's growth. You might end up with trees that looked like they were "topped", with new branches coming out everywhere. Even if this didn't happen the heat would cause some damage to the buds and limbs, weakening the tree so that over several years of burning the tree would gradually die.
On the other hand, if you are going to cut them down anyway, it would be a neat experiment!
Last edited by HaBi Farm; 09/29/20 10:00 AM. Reason: spelling/syntax
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,898 Likes: 146
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,898 Likes: 146 |
I have hoped that someone would come up with an ingenious solution to the need to scoop leaves out quickly and easily before they sink. Managing floating ropes that have some type of capturing device near the surface works, but is mostly a 2 person operation and if you get too long of a rope you would need a tractor to pull the loaded rope with wet heavy leaves in. A mesh cover over the whole pond would not be good for me as I like the surface open for aeration, for my turtles, and for my minnows to feed off the surface.
To me it would be easiest if I had a powered solution. An old jet ski that floats well enough that the operator doesn't get wet but can push a skimmer basket on the front to push the leaves up on the shore. A way to tip/dump the basket once beached on the shore would be idea. Just 'mow lanes' across the surface whenever leaves are starting to float. If the skimmer rides about 6" under the surface you would get them all.
A manual process could be done with 2 people. You could make a similar wide and shallow basket that rides bout 6" under the water but also has a portion above the water with floats to help suspend the leaves as they are netted. It could be pulled back and forth across the pond. One person could attach it to the middle of a very long rope, pull it across the pond, empty it out, turn it around, leave it ready for the return trip, then walk around the pond, grab the long other end of the rope and pull it back across, etc.
I'm thinking a PVC rectangle frame, 3/4" pvc, maybe 8'-10' long, 24-30" wide. Make 2 identical frames and mount them one on top of the other with maybe 10" vertical PVC posts in the 4 corners. You could use any mesh that is strong enough to handle sticks and leaves dragging in it, maybe reuse an old seine net section. Cover the bottom, the two short sides and the back side, keeping the top open and the front entrance open between the frames. Let the bottom frame sink in the water as the floor of the 'skimmer' and wrap the top frame with pool noodles to keep it floating.
Probably best to scale it down and do a smaller test model first?
The same setup, but this time weighted by drilling holes in the pvc frame and filling the tubes with pea gravel might work well to drag muck off the bottom if pulled across with a garden tractor. You probably could use the same setup for both, you just would have to add pea gravel and take off floats during spring and summer season and empty gravel and add floats during fall season.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,537 Likes: 842
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,537 Likes: 842 |
Google parachute skimmer.....
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Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 1
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Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 1 |
I am looking to cleanup my 40 year old 3acre lake, it has a bunch of muck in it, the bio-3 says it takes 125lbs per surface acres for a treatment! i'd go broke doing that, the muckaway TL is $699 and says it treats 3 acres, and advertises it is "delayed release" pellets. Have you used both? or would reccomend anything else?
thanks
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,537 Likes: 842
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,537 Likes: 842 |
Talk to both companies and see how many inches of muck per year they estimate that it will remove. If your pond is more than 8 feet deep, you will need aeration for it to have a chance of working.
There is no silver bullet for removing muck shy of draining and mechanically removing it. That's the only way I know of guaranteeing that it will work. (the muck removal)
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