Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Property Projects & Construction Flow Through Well-Fed Trout Setup ?!?

I've come up with the concept of doing a "flow through" system where I pump water from my well into a 16ft diameter, 3ft deep concrete 4000 gal "pond." This is already built, though not setup yet. The water tests fine for ph / potability etc. Will spray the water in via a central geyser to help aerate it, and then also do additional bottom aeration.

The general thought is to bring enough water in to not have to actually filter it. I'm thinking if I bring in about 5gpm of well water on a 1/2 hp pump, which will cycle the water more than daily. Then thinking to do 2 bottom drains that flow from the pressure to release the water a slightly slower then its coming into the system. Perhaps on a 3" pipe with ball valve to be able to tune the flow rate out of the pond? Seems like this could be a potential issue (clogable) despite the high water turnover. Then hook in a skimmer to this line, and at a higher level, an overflow valve that would have its own free flow pipe to the stream, to control the top water level.

Thinking the 52 degree well water will be ideal for trout if I can keep it properly aerated, and able to keep me warm enough through a Kentucky winter at this flow rate.

Overflow will go to a stream and series of pools that I'll be creating to flow off of this that connect into an existing creek system.

So I guess I don't have anyone to run this setup by as far as the overall system feasibility, in addition to the trout raising side of things... and would love any feedback. I'm not looking to setup a "farm" - just 40 or so trout at various stages, to be able to smoke / grill from time to time.

What do you think? Would love input on sizing pumps / system in general as well.

1/2 hp well pump
1/2 hp aeration pump?
Would I need a separate circulation pump (and thus filters) to simulate a stream by spinning the water around?
If I added lights for a couple hours at night, would that mess with the fish? (I don't think it'd be too bad)

Anyways, would love any feedback, or tips in general.... Big thanks!

Very cool project Ted and welcome to the forums! I'm certainly no tank expert and know very little about trout. I do like to discuss such DIY ventures and will offer the following...

Check your well water for DO levels. Most (most all) are low low low. You know this, but the important thing is your comfort level that you can bring it up as it's being pumped in. It won't have much time in the tank to absorb the O2 at the surface. I would think it would need DO going in. I have seen fisheries holding tanks (natural spring water supplied) like this and they had pipes running the length of the tank (long and skinny tanks) with nozzles spraying water streams down into the tank about every 2 feet. These tanks were for golden shiners and fat head minnows mind you and the water flow was much much more than 5 gpm. More like 50 gpm (or more). There is a thread somewhere on PB where a member was cascading water through buckets with holes and rocks in the buckets, from bucket to bucket (IIRC) to boost DO levels. You may need something like this. Be cautious not to heat the water up in the process during the summer. To much exposure to hot air may certainly improve DO, but will also raise the temp.

The long and skinny tanks along with the higher flow also help the fish waste flow to the end and out. A round tank will not have that luxury. I would consider pumping your water into the round tank in a whirlpool fashion which will help collect the waste at the bottom in the center. This is where your outlet pipe/drain should be. I would wonder what affects the slight whirl pool motion would have on the fish? I had a round 500 gallon pool once and had a 1/4 hp filter on it and I would set the discharge hose to make the whirl pool effect and would end up with debris nicely collected at the bottom center for easy vacuuming. The whirlpool motion was minimal, but it would make me dizzy of I was a fish and had to live in it...lol. You might need a bigger pump to create this advantage.

I did not follow your drain explanation very well (especially about the skimmer), I am very visual. I can try to explain the way I would consider doing the drain...

One, 3 inch pipe coming off the bottom center (it should have a grate covering the opening in the tank). This pipe would come out from underneath the tank and elbow upwards at the side (or wherever you wish). I would stop this pipe where you want the water level to be in the tank. Initially at start-up, any water you pump in will try to raise the level, but the drain pipe that terminates at you desired water level will bleed out about the same amount of water being pumped in. Once the water level rises just a bit over the top of the raised drain pipe (or riser)...the drain pipe will keep up with the in-flow. The trick here is to NOT use too small of a drain pipe. 3" would be plenty for 5 gpm, probably a lot more IMO. And it would be big enough to not clog easily. One advantage is that you have no valves to adjust to balance the flow. It is all controlled by the amount of water you put in. You could do the same thing with the riser coming up in the middle of the tank, but you would lose the debris collection aspect.

It sounds like a hoot. I would expect some trial and error moments getting where you want it with respect to DO levels, temps, flows, and self-filtration.

Oh man - solid, well thought out response and insights.

Love your bottom drain system with exhaust riser extending up to the water line concept. That may be common around these parts, but that was new on me, and makes more sense than my concept. I'm guessing I'd just add the skimmer to the same 3" pipe circuit and call it a day.

And yes, I may have underestimated the DO needs with an aerating geyser and bottom aeriation pump. (I guess it depends on the aeriation pump sizing)... but you spurred another thought. What if the well water was aerated on the way up. You could pump air down to the bottom into the column "straw" if you will, then as the water / air solution is pulled up (with the air doing some of the water lifting for you) bringing the water up passing through a few screens on the way to remix the water / air.

You'd obviously lose some net energy, by pumping air down / screening, but would be introducing air to the water a lot earlier, and saving another process after it made it to surface level. And could always turn it off and / or supplement with more aeriation if needed...

Open to any and all additional feedback before I start setting this thing up...

Just $0.02 here.

1) Make sure your overflow/outflow drain cannot be plugged by a dead fish when you aren't watching it.

2) The aeration pump bringing water up is called a lift pump system. That would reduce the amount of Electricity used, and you could get by with 1/4 hp low pressure compressor.

Get an O2 meter to check levels of oxygen. Also get a pocket meter to check ammonia levels.

If the O2 isn't high enough, look into getting a LOX tank, pressure regulator and a flow regulator. Use O2 to bring up the water instead of ambient air.

Great insight Esshup. Any direction on the Lift Pump System for wells? My research is getting me stuck on two extremes - either moving industrial sludge, or smaller applications...

Will gladly take your advice on the other items!

I have nothing.... I guess it would depend on the size of the well casing. Try dropping an air stone down the casing using a 1/2" ID self sinking air line.