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I have had good luck with Howse shredder on my MX5100 Kubota. I beam outer frame, tough . Box blade is an Armstrong..... have bent the scarafers trying to root up youpon roots.... better to use FEL

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First time I’ve ever heard of an LS tractor. That sent me to Google.


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The ones RAH mentioned are good. I broke down and bought an expensive JD mower for my new 4044. It does have a deeper deck and larger blade carrier (thus shorter blades) which will do a better job in tall grass/weeds. I figured I would own it till I died so over the years the extra cost amortized out would not be much extra.

Having said that, on my JD2620 which is about the physical size of your tractor I bought a cheap 4' rotary mower at a farm store that was selling out and quitting so I got it really cheap. That mower did everything I ask it to and never complained. When you are talking about a 4' mower they usually use the same gearbox as the 5' and sometimes the cheaper 6' mowers. With your horsepower you would never need to worry about the durability of the gearbox or blades. On a 5 or 6' with a higher horsepower tractor that can become an issue. Another thing is the bigger mowers can be had with either a shear pin or slip clutch. As long as your talking about tractors about 35 horsepower or lower I don't see the need for a slip clutch. You just pull the engine down if you run it in the dirt or hit a stump. Not the case if you are running a 50 hp tractor or up. If you have a 80 hp tractor with a shear pin protection cutting in some rough stuff, the shear pin can become an issue of losing your religion. With your horsepower there is no issue. You don't have a big enough tractor to shear it. I have never sheared a pin on either my 2620 (4' cheapie) or 3038E (had a Frontier 5' mower on it). My new 4044 (44hp) and JD6' mower (model HX6) has a slip clutch on the mower because that is the way it was equipped on the dealer lot. But a shear pin would have been fine also. Had I bought the 4066 (66 hp) a shear pin protection mower could have become a problem in some conditions. The shear pin or slip clutch is mainly to protect the mower drive line although does also provide some protection to the gearbox if the tractor is a higher horsepower than the mower gearbox is rated for. In the larger mowers that can become an issue in rough cutting (tractor tearing up the gearbox), but again with your tractor any 4' mower you would buy would have a gearbox that far exceeds your tractor capacity to tear it up. So no worries.

Probably more than you wanted to know. I owned a shear pin 6' mower many years ago and used it on a 60 hp tractor. It was a pain. Always carried a half dozen shear bolts with me at all times.

For those that have higher horsepower tractors and want a slip clutch protection, the problem with them (especially if they are stored outside) is the clutch disks can freeze up with rust then you have zero protection because they will not slip at designed torque. The main indication is a twisted drive line. Most manuals say to loosen the torque setting bolts, slip the clutch, then re-tighten the adjusting bolt/bolts. Trouble is it is a pain and most people never do it. Should do it at the beginning of each season. On a 25' or above flex wing mower there are usually 3 of them. We have replaced wing drive lines before when the clutch was frozen up.

Last edited by snrub; 11/29/20 09:51 AM.

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What version of the 4044 do you have? I am envious of the cab!

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Thanks for all the great info guys!


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Originally Posted by RAH
What version of the 4044 do you have? I am envious of the cab!

I believe it is a 4044R with hydrostatic transmission. Has cab and air of course along with radio. I did trick it out pretty good with rear weights, quick hitch (after market), dual rear auxiliary hydraulics, third hydraulic loader outlet with electric button on the joystick for the grapple and 4N1 bucket, rear tires filled with washer fluid for additional ballast, economy PTO (dealer installed option), horn, rear lights, outside rear view mirrors. Bought a 3pt receiver hitch off Ebay to move my wood splitter and trailers around with and bolted four 100# rear tractor weights to the bottom of it for additional ballast for the loader (as well as a stand for when the hitch is off the tractor). 72" regular bucket that came with the loader. I already have a 7' finish mower for the rear of it (but I do most of my mowing with a Bad Boy ZT), a fork lift attachment, a skid steer adapter attachment plate, and a grapple attachment that fits the loader quick tatch (as well as my 5083E tractor).

Last edited by snrub; 11/29/20 12:32 PM.

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John, that is a sweet set up!


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Bobbss,

I have used rentals of the brush mowers, box blades, and rotary tillers. Obviously, I have not run them enough to comment about their longevity. However, I believe they were all Land Pride brand at two separate rental places.

I assume the rental people are pretty scientific at determining the "bang for the buck" on their attachments.

**Caveat: I live in Kansas, and the Land Pride manufacturing facility is located right in the middle of the state. That could also be the reason for their choices.

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Woods makes good mowers too.

One caveat about the brush hog and the slip clutch. Make sure you loosen and slip it the beginning of every season, even if stored inside. I forgot, hit a stump and broke the output shaft. 72" brushog, IIRC 66 hp tractor. Cost me around $1K for parts I did the work myself.


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I should also mention that I bought the heaviest duty 5' Bush Hog mower for my 40 HP tractor and it took so much more power just to operate its mechanism that I must now mow higher and slower than with the King Kutter mower that I replaced when it was "used up". I would probably been have better off with their medium duty mower, but the heavy duty one that I bought is very rugged and will likely outlast me. It has a slip clutch which has never been adjusted, but I always keep it in the barn. It has tangled with many immovable objects... The diesel tractor bogs, but only the swing blades have been affected. It needs a sharpening this Winter once again. Trail mowing has its hazards.

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Originally Posted by esshup
Woods makes good mowers too.
I have a 72" Woods Brush Bull that I have abused the hell out of. Blades, gearbox, body, and drive shaft have withstood all of that. However, I have frelled up the tail wheel yoke several times by backing into hidden stumps. We now pasture the cows in our woods which makes maintaining the paths there much easier, since they clear out undergrowth and you can actually see where you are mowing. I haven't messed up a tail wheel assembly for 3 years now.


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The tail wheel is definitely at risk, as is denting/twisting the deck. The heavy duty 5' Bush Hog brush mower that I have has withstood what the King Kutter would not. I bent back the wheel assembly on that one more than a couple times. I have used my brush mowers pretty hard including backing over some pretty large multiflora rose clumps and lower it down to take them out (when clearing land). Probably pretty tough on my PTO as well, but my JD 1070 has done pretty well over the last 30 years.

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My tail wheel that came on my Land pride did not last very long because it bent pretty bad and I had to replace it when it was all pretty new. The one purchased was alot stronger and was made for the land pride brush hog. That tells me they knew the tail wheel was a week wheel or they would not have have a tougher setup for the same brush hog. Like i said earlier, i can tear up some equipment. This is one reason I rent heavy equipment when I need it instead of buying it. Whe u look at something like a track hoe you would think they are tuff but i bet i can tear one up just by accident.

Last edited by TGW1; 11/30/20 07:08 AM.

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Thanks to everyone for the great info on brush hogs. Will a box blade help with removing rocks or would a landscape rake or something else be needed for that, after using a box blade.


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I consider a box blade something that does the same job as a dozer, but much slower.

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Originally Posted by RAH
I consider a box blade something that does the same job as a dozer, but much slower.
Thanks, that is kind of what I thought.


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Landscape rake or go rent a Harley Rake.


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Thanks Esshup!


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I also had to replace my swing blades on the land pride brush hog. My son hit a root or stump, something really hard as it really bent the blade. I also learned it takes alot of power to remove the bolt that hangs the swing blade. I used the winch and breaker bar wrench on my side by side to brake the nut from the bolt.

Last edited by TGW1; 12/02/20 07:52 AM.

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My bolts on the swing blades are also really hard to remove (not the nuts but the tapered bolts). Just could not drive them out, even with a 3/4" hammer drill). So much trouble that I rigged things up so that I can sharpen them while still on the mower. A real pain!

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Rah, I bought the 2' breaker bar and the correct socket from Kubota dealer. I then used the winch on my Polaris to pull on the breaker bar. It was my last attempt to loosen the nut. I had no other ideas on how to break the connection. Luckley it worked.

Last edited by TGW1; 12/03/20 06:24 AM.

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A cheater pipe slipped over the handle of your breaker bar typically makes quick work of tight nuts.

With adequate mechanical advantage you may bend/break the breaker bar, and/or break the stud/bolt, or successfully remove the stuck fastener.

Liberal application of PB Blaster/Knock'er Loose or similar penetrating lube along with a bit of heat may improve the odds of success.

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I agree that everything Augie said is "spot on".

If possible, spray on some penetrating lube the day before you are going to knock off the frozen nuts. Give it time to work, and then spray again when you are ready to start working.

I would add - also try turning them the wrong way. You won't be tightening the nut. Usually, the problem is the nut is frozen, rather than too tight. Once you get it moving in either direction, it will be much easier to remove.

Finally, "shock" impact is much more effective than continuous torque. I have seen a crew put two guys on a cheater pipe and not budge the nut on a 2" bolt. They then hit it with a 3# sledge hammer and it comes right off with only one guy on the cheater. (This is the reason an impact driver/drill is so much more effective.) Obviously, you can't hammer harder than the bending strength of your bolt.

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A 1" impact wrench works pretty good, like the ones used on semi wheels.

Lacking that a cutting torch putting some heat on the nut while avoiding the bolt also will break a lot of them loose.

I often touch up blades while on the mower but if they need a lot of grinding take them off.

A good welding shop with a forge can hammer them out also which retains more metal than grinding.

I have never hard surfaced any but my Bad Boy Outlaw XP zero turn mower has hard surfaced blades (hard surface on the bottom side) so I would assume it could be done to bush hog blades also.


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I decided to get myself a 2015 Kubota 5700.

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