I have a drill doctor, but I can freehand them quicker by using my belt grinder.
Why am I not surprised?
It's funny how aware I've become of temps since I started paying more attention to all things metal related. I've been using cutting oil with drill bits and the chop saw, but now I'm also more careful of heat when sharpening my ZT blades.
John, I set my drill dr to 118 degrees on the bevel...where you actually do the grinding, then I set the chuck, the part with the notches one notch down from 118. You will see 118 in the center of it, then + and - signs, try one notch down or subtracted from 118, probably closer to 116.
I had the same trouble but I played with it for a long time. Finally come up with this setting and works very well on mild steel. If your bits come out with a different angle it might take more grinding before its right. Look at the grind and make sure the bit is shiny all the way across the flank as in the pic. If not the bit used is of a different angle. Normally the point angle is what is different.
When hand sharpening, my students have the most trouble getting the chisel and the lip angle right. The bit will just sit on top of the metal if those are not right.
There are many different pics of drill bit nomenclature, some call the pieces different things, this one is similar to the one I use in class.
Everything we have switched over to LED so far no dissapointments.
We have metal halide in our shop, and my understanding is they now have LED replacement bulb assemblies that will fit right into our sockets. As we replace the Halides, my intention is to go to LED.
Noticed this old post and thought I would update. We did replace our shop lights to LED and the difference in the electric bill was enough our office manager noticed the difference in the bill and brought it to our attention.