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I bought a drill doctor a couple of years ago, sharpened all my bits, but the ones I sharpened don't seem to cut well. Maybe I did it wrong.

sprkplug #476958 07/25/17 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted By: sprkplug
I have a drill doctor, but I can freehand them quicker by using my belt grinder.
Why am I not surprised?

It's funny how aware I've become of temps since I started paying more attention to all things metal related. I've been using cutting oil with drill bits and the chop saw, but now I'm also more careful of heat when sharpening my ZT blades.

Thanks again guys!


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John, I set my drill dr to 118 degrees on the bevel...where you actually do the grinding, then I set the chuck, the part with the notches one notch down from 118. You will see 118 in the center of it, then + and - signs, try one notch down or subtracted from 118, probably closer to 116.

I had the same trouble but I played with it for a long time. Finally come up with this setting and works very well on mild steel. If your bits come out with a different angle it might take more grinding before its right. Look at the grind and make sure the bit is shiny all the way across the flank as in the pic. If not the bit used is of a different angle. Normally the point angle is what is different.

When hand sharpening, my students have the most trouble getting the chisel and the lip angle right. The bit will just sit on top of the metal if those are not right.

There are many different pics of drill bit nomenclature, some call the pieces different things, this one is similar to the one I use in class.



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And it begins.

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Last edited by FireIsHot; 08/01/20 07:23 PM.

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And so what begins? Good lord a submarine for the pond? Nice!

snrub #524231 08/02/20 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by snrub
Everything we have switched over to LED so far no dissapointments.

We have metal halide in our shop, and my understanding is they now have LED replacement bulb assemblies that will fit right into our sockets. As we replace the Halides, my intention is to go to LED.

Noticed this old post and thought I would update. We did replace our shop lights to LED and the difference in the electric bill was enough our office manager noticed the difference in the bill and brought it to our attention.

Last edited by snrub; 08/02/20 07:52 PM.

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Jim, no submarine for sure. In my shallow pond, it would drag the bottom.

John, we're replacing lights with LED's one by one for the same reason. That, and I can finally see what I'm working on.


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Clean, prime, and paint.
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Last edited by FireIsHot; 08/21/20 03:34 PM.

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That your skid to mount tank on ?

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Pat, it is. Flushed and drained the tank several times, then turned it upside down on a purlin base to let the remaining propane flow out what was the top valve. I checked it with my LEL meter, and it was completely void of propane after a couple of days. I feel comfortable cutting it now.


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Al, since when did you switch to Eastern Time? Your post says 8/22/20 12:42 am but it's only 11:31 CST on 8/21/2020 here.....

Now THAT'S weird, look at the time stamp on my post.......

Last edited by esshup; 08/21/20 11:32 PM.

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Originally Posted by FireIsHot
Flushed and drained the tank several times, then turned it upside down on a purlin base to let the remaining propane flow out what was the top valve. I checked it with my LEL meter, and it was completely void of propane after a couple of days. I feel comfortable cutting it now.
I'm sure you've researched how to safely cut into an old large propane tank, but I'll add my 2 cents anyways.

From what I understand, there's a possibility that residue from the propane may be impregnated into the steel walls of an old tank, and the heat from cutting might release the residue and lead to an explosion.

If I had to cut into a big ol' propane tank like the one you have, I'd first fill it completely with water, and as soon as the water began leaking from the cut I'd stop cutting and insert a hose into the tank and purge the growing air space with an inert gas, such as argon or nitrogen... Or better yet, I might just save myself some stress and pay the guy at the local welding shop to cut the initial opening... lol

At first, I was thinking you were gonna build a big ass barbecue smoker, but that nice looking stand you've built looks to be too tall for that, so now I dunno.

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GW, absolutely chime in. I won't be cutting for a few weeks, so anybody with experience with this, jump right in.

Rhetorical question, but if you make your first cut under water, which is what most people do, how does that keep the propane from affecting secondary cuts above the water line? I know people have used Argon for the first cut(as you mentioned), and I'm not opposed to that. After filling the tank with Dawn and letting it sit, I drained and re-flushed with a power washer with TSP, and then flipped the tank to let it drain.

So a question. If propane is heavier than air, wouldn't having it sit upside down and drain naturally over a couple of weeks in 100-109 degree weather, after the flushings, help remove any potential residual propane? My LEL meter maxed immediately after I rolled it over, only had 2 bars the next day, and has not registered any internal flammables in the last 2 weeks.

Oh, it is going to be a smoker. It's a narrow but long 250 gallon tank, so the legs are a little higher on the sides of the tank than they would be if it was one of the rounder tanks.

There are thousands of propane smokers being used, so I'm open to any experiences with this. For clarity, I always try to go the best and safest route, not the easiest.


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Fumigate it with CO2. Long as there is no oxygen in there it can't go boom. Check with a professional welder before doing it though to make sure it is right.

Last edited by snrub; 08/22/20 12:30 PM.

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What snrub said, if you have an old gas motor like a briggs or similar, hook the exhaust up so that it blows into an opening and let it run for a 15 minutes, even choke it as much as will allow it to run. will remove all the oxygen out of the tank and you can cut on it as you please, safer then water that will just concentrate the gas fumes into a smaller area, not deactivate them, and also pretty much impossible to cut underwater.


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Thanks guys, but the more I think about it, it's probably best that I just pick up this thread after the tank is cut. Cutting old propane tanks has a small tinge of voodoo involved, and there's really not a definitive answer. It all depends on the tank you would be cutting. I'd hate to post something that could potentially hurt somebody that read it, so...

I have spent some time at the American Welding Society Forum, and everything I've done so far is what was recommended by the guys that do tank repairs for a living.


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I think if you purge it you will be fine.... I worked as a Pipefitter/ welder all my working career so I think you got this!

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Al, as much as you thought about this before hand and prepped the tank, and you have the LEL meter, so you can test the levels of the gas inside after you've made a cut or two. If it doesn't move, then I wouldn't be worried about it. As much as you purged it and cleaned it, I would be VERY surprised if the LEL meter moved any.....


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Originally Posted by FireIsHot
Thanks guys, but the more I think about it, it's probably best that I just pick up this thread after the tank is cut. Cutting old propane tanks has a small tinge of voodoo involved, and there's really not a definitive answer. It all depends on the tank you would be cutting. I'd hate to post something that could potentially hurt somebody that read it, so...
I agree. The procedure and safety considerations for cutting vessels (even water and air tanks) can vary, depending on specific applications, condition of the vessel, position of the vessel, the tools used for cutting, how you hold your mouth while making the cut, etc.

You're aware of the dangers and you're doing the research and the critical thinking, so I'm with Pat, I think you got this.

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How to cut a propane tank.

How to cut a propane tank link

This one is pretty funny. Cutting a propane tank with a torch

Last edited by snrub; 08/23/20 08:55 PM.

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Fire box time. The 1/4" plate had a slight bow, so I found two straight edges, and will tack, spread, compress, and clamp my way around it. I'm doing it on a lift because I'm too old to even think about moving it any more than I have to. I haven't cut the tank yet. I had to create an account at my welding shop to rent an inert gas rig, and I just haven't been back to get it.

Pat, I subscribe to a couple of pipefitters YouTube channels. You guys earn, or earned, your money.

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Last edited by FireIsHot; 09/10/20 07:32 PM.

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Originally Posted by FireIsHot
Fire box time. The 1/4" plate had a slight bow, so I found two straight edges, and will tack, spread, compress, and clamp my way around it. I'm doing it on a lift because I'm too old to even think about moving it any more than I have to. I haven't cut the tank yet. I had to create an account at my welding shop to rent an inert gas rig, and I just haven't been back to get it.

Pat, I subscribe to a couple of pipefitters YouTube channels. You guys earn, or earned, your money.

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You got that right and I got scars to back it up along with bunch of ailments that go along with it .its all good

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Well, hows the progress been on the project?


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Laborious to say the least. I was getting porosity on a couple of the fire box corners, and it kept popping up in the exact same places after I ground out the welds, and recleaned the 1'4" plate. I'm pretty sure it's contamination in the plate itself. Most of the metal I get comes from Mexico, so for all I know, there's bumpers from AMC Pacers in there somewhere.


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Or whole Pinto's!


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