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Water Chemistry Log by QA
#508352 07/01/19 12:53 PM
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I am starting this thread to kick off my efforts in understanding my pond's water chemistry.

This first post is LONG with data charts, links and whatnot...scan to the second post to get to the meat of the conversations.

I will be getting the test kits soon that will allow for the following parameters to be collected...

PH
Ammonia
Nitrite
Phosphate
D.O.
Total Dissolved Solids
Electrical Conductivity
Water Temperature

Before I start using the test kits, I would like to ask for any advise from those who are in the know. Things like...

1.) At what depths do you sample the water from for the different tests? Does it matter?

2.) Do you need to get water samples from multiple depths of the pond for DO even though I have an aeration system that is turning the pond over very well? Let's say I want to know the DO level at the bottom of the pond...without swimming down to the bottom, How do you folks get that sample?

3.) I have read that PH swings during the day so multiple test times are good to perform...any other tests that should be done at particular times?

4.) Am I missing any other common tests?

I hope to have results to share after this holiday weekend. Other than expanding my involvement at the pond, my main concern is improving clarity as it tends to hover around 18" Secchi and I think 30 inches would be a good goal to acheive. I have also collected some water for the jar test that I will post in a few days.

I am going to reference some charts (Thanks Ewest!) and such in this initial thread that were supplied in other PB threads or found on the web for my quick reference. Feel free to add any that I might have missed...









Additonal data from...

http://pondplace.com/chemistryofapond-phammonianitratesetc.aspx

"pH
Ideal: 7.5
Acceptable Range: 6.5 - 8.5
Phosphate
Ideal: 0
Acceptable Range: 0.0 - 0.5
Ammonia
Ideal: 0
Acceptable Range: 0.0 - 0.25
Nitrites
Ideal: 0
Acceptable Range: 0.0 - 0.25
Nitrates
Ideal: 0
Acceptable Range: 0.0 - 0.5
Salt/Salinity
Ideal: 0.1 - 0.25
Acceptable Range: 0.1 - 0.25"

A handy Alkalinity Conversion Calculator (thanks RydforLyf!)

https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/AlkConversion.php

"In short, 1dkh = 17.9 ppm"

Understanding Your Fish Pond Water Analysis Report...

https://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/Understanding-Your-Fish-Pond-Water-Analysis-Report.pdf

Some Crazy stuff about TDS (Thanks again Ewest!)

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=138300

Oxygen Saturation Chart From...

https://www.bassresource.com/fish_biology/oxygen.html



Pond Scum Field Guide link...

https://www.townofchapelhill.org/home/showdocument?id=28866

Everything about Ponds

https://srac.tamu.edu/viewFactSheets

Carbon Dioxide in Fish Ponds

https://appliedecology.cals.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/SRAC-0468.pdf

Missouri Pond Handbook

https://mdc.mo.gov/sites/default/files/downloads/MOPondHandbook.pdf

Last edited by Quarter Acre; 09/27/19 07:03 AM.

Fish on!,
Noel
Water Test Results - Your thoughts
Quarter Acre #508496 07/04/19 11:29 AM
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Performed these tests this morning (8:30am). Aeration ran from 11pm last night to 8am this morning. Water samples taken from 16" below surface...

Secchi Disk Reading - 18"

Water temps - Top to Bottom 82 F.

DO - 4-5 ppm (I think this is low and will check again tomorrow evening to check on DO swing.)

TDS - 51 ppm (101 ms/cm) (my well water is 211 ppm)

pH - 7 (my well water is 7)

Ammonia - 0.25 ppm

Nitrates - 0.25 ppm

Phosphates - 0.25 ppm

I have also done a jar test...





Most of the results look good to my newbie eyes. My initial concern was how to clear the water up a little, and now I think I need to look further into DO and try to determine what is making my water brownish. The water looks "muddy" while just standing at the shore, but it looks like very-very weak tea in a jar. I also need to check into an alkalinity test kit, but tomorrow's DO test may hint one way or another.

Any thoughts to kick off my first run at pond water chemistry?


Attached Files
Jar Test Comparisons.jpg (1.58 MB, 621 downloads)
Jar Sed Comparisons.jpg (1.8 MB, 613 downloads)

Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Test Results - Your thoughts
Quarter Acre #508499 07/04/19 01:48 PM
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I would watch the DO. The rest is ok. 7pH is very good and not indicative of any alkalinity issues. My guess is the water color is mostly plankton and some soil.
















Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508542 07/06/19 12:24 PM
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I checked DO yesterday in the AM and PM I don't know what to think...

It was 4 ppm in the AM and 4 in the PM. The following readings stayed the same for both AM and PM...pH-7, TDS-50 ppm, and clarity-18". I have read that 4 ppm is reason for concern.

With my lack of water chemistry experience, the only things I can think that would cause this is too many pounds of fish in the pond or my DO kit is wrong (Dissolved Oxygen CHEMets Water Test Kit).

I have an estimated 350-400 pounds of fish in my 1/4 acre pond. And, the aeration should be turning the pond over about 4 times a day, running from 11pm to 8am. HSB are around 1-1/2 pounds, HBG are 1/2 pound. There's no submerged plant-life, little to no FA, but the banks are solid in with grasses, some emergent plants along with about 100 sq feet of water hyacinths.

I'm open too everyone's thoughts. Is it time to remove some fish?


Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508557 07/07/19 06:53 AM
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I use Chemets tests on remote springs and they are fairly accurate when compared to my DO meter. However, comparative visual analysis can vary greatly depending upon the lighting conditions. I seem to be able to read them best in low light or shade conditions.

4ppm DO is definitely not desirable. It doesn't seem like you have many sources of DO besides aeration? I am assuming you don't have much of a phytoplankton bloom?

None of your test results are optimum but they are all dynamic parameters in a snapshot. Have you begun to keep a log? See any trends? Correlations?


2.5 acres, 87' Deep, Previously a Quarry
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Joey Quarry #508568 07/07/19 11:56 AM
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Thanks for dropping in Joe!

Originally Posted By: Joey Quarry
I seem to be able to read them best in low light or shade conditions.


I tried multiple lighting scenarios and feel comfortable that I read the results accurately, certainly with in 1 ppm.

Originally Posted By: Joey Quarry
It doesn't seem like you have many sources of DO besides aeration? I am assuming you don't have much of a phytoplankton bloom?


DO comes from aeration and light wind action and any blooms that happen. The past two summers have produced some serious blooms (a couple kinda scary looking), but this year has yet to produce any real obvious ones. My water has had a secchi reading of 18" all season and I just raised my 3 diffusers (3 feet off the bottom) in hopes that getting them further from the bottom reduces any updraft of clay/sediments.

Originally Posted By: Joey Quarry
Have you begun to keep a log? See any trends? Correlations?


This thread is my log, so I have not being doing the testing long enough to see any trends, I just got my kits.


Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508578 07/07/19 08:18 PM
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All your tests are dynamic readings that will change throughout the day. Dissolved oxygen and ammonia will peak in the late afternoon/early evening. One test in the morning really doesn't lend any insight. Tests should be conducted in the early morning, mid day and early evening on the same day, twice per month. Since you are just starting out, I would recommend at least once per week. Always record the conditions of the test. Atmospheric temperature, high/low pressure, sun/cloudy, etc. The more parameters documented, the more insight you will glean.

Since you have relatively low plant life but decent secchi readings, I have to ask how often you treat your pond with copper sulfate or other weed control chemicals?

I don't have any insight as to whether your pond is overstocked but I'll assume you are feeding? This could be over feeding? The higher protein of your feed, coupled with over feeding, I would expect to see the results you posted.

I don't think ammonia is an issue, currently, considering your temp and pH. However, you should try other ways to increase DO. Maybe a water fountain or spray? Anything to increase the waters interaction with the atmosphere.

Mike Whatley has a photo of a pump he used to increase DO, he may have some insight into its efficacy?


2.5 acres, 87' Deep, Previously a Quarry
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508586 07/08/19 03:53 AM
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I cant tell you what the new fountain does for total DO saturation, because I dont have a DO meter. I can say that even with the pump submerged only two feet deep, letting it run 12 hours, when I checked temps of the morning there was still very little variance on temp from top to bottom. I have reduced run time on the fountain now to 6 hours of the morning (4a-10a) and there is a significant change in temp by late afternoon. The surface gets pretty warm, but the shading provided by the blue green dye allows some cooling at depth. Visibility is now up to 30+ inches, even with dye. Morning ph is 7.5, but it gets close to 9 by late afternoon.


.10 surface acre pond, 10.5 foot deep. SW LA. The epitome of a mutt pond. BG, LMB, GSF, RES, BH, Warmouth, Longear Sunfish, Gambusia,Mud Minnows, Crappie, and now shiners!!...I subscribe!!
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508592 07/08/19 07:32 AM
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Thanks guys for the insights, I appreciate it very much.

The pond has seen no chemical treatments of any kind. The only "stuff" that might be getting into the water is hay pasture fertilizer from about 15 acres of pasture watershed. I think my neighbor fertilizes once a year, so it should not be anything excessive.

I have been overfeeding, slightly, as it would typically take 30 minutes for the fish to clean up the 1/2 cup of feed (once daily). I stopped auto feeding about a week ago and have been hand feeding to keep it to 15 minutes.

Right now, I am feeling like this endeavor is a catch 22 scenario...cut back the aeration to improve clarity to encourage a bloom sounds like trading this for that. I have raised my diffusers and will give them a week to prove out with respect to turbidity before making any more changes.

And, I will start getting more test results on the weekends at 3 times a day and see where that leads.


Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508702 07/10/19 07:40 AM
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Some things I wanted to add that may shed some light on my water conditions...My night time aeration leaves a bubbly-like scum on the surface, much like the scum a protein skimmer creates for a salt water fish tank. This scum typically disapates by the late afternoon. AND, I have noticed an oil-like film on the water this year. It started with the early spring rains which we have had plenty of. Rain and/or wind would make it disappear, but it would return on calm days. It does not cover the whole surface, but will have splotches consistently over the entire pond. It does not have that rainbow coloring that motor oil produces, but looks rather gray...





Any thoughts of wisdom given my last test results (from above 7-7-19)?...

Secchi Disk Reading - 18".

Water temps - Top to Bottom 82 F.

DO - 4-5 ppm

TDS - 51 ppm (101 ms/cm).

pH - 7.

Ammonia - 0.25 ppm

Nitrates - 0.25 ppm

Phosphates - 0.25 ppm

Attached Files
Oil-like floaties.jpg (1.9 MB, 499 downloads)
Oil-like floaties Close-up.jpg (1.83 MB, 496 downloads)
Last edited by Quarter Acre; 07/10/19 07:42 AM.

Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508707 07/10/19 09:10 AM
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Hey Noel, I had that same film on my pond from spring into early summer. Mine progressively got heavier until it became an algae scum that covered almost the entire pond. I "think" it is a PA bloom starting to die off. I'm not absolutely sure, but as soon as I installed the surface fountain, it got a lot lighter. I still see a little by late evening on bright days, but nothing like it used to be.

If you get an absolute definition of what it is, I would also be very glad to hear it.


.10 surface acre pond, 10.5 foot deep. SW LA. The epitome of a mutt pond. BG, LMB, GSF, RES, BH, Warmouth, Longear Sunfish, Gambusia,Mud Minnows, Crappie, and now shiners!!...I subscribe!!
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508779 07/11/19 08:39 AM
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Here are some pics of my pond scum this morning. Mike - do these look like your earlier pond conditions?







It seems like it's getting more concentrated/intense and there are a few things going on...

1.) Bubbles that do not pop quickly. High surface tension along with a surface film, maybe proteins and algae bloom? These bubbles area gone by the afternoon.

2.) Look closely and you can see veins of brown and green through out the pond's upper water column. This is hard to see in the potos, but there are definitely below-surface color patterns. Different types of PA blooms or stages of blooms?

3.) A surface film of green where the diffusers have pushed it away from the center of the pond. A different bloom all together?

I can't help but wonder how running the aerators only at night affects the bloom cycles. The water gets thoroughly churned at night, mixing the previous day's algae growth to a consistent density throughout the water column. Then the lack of mixing during the daytime may be killing off the algae that can't get light because its towards the bottom of the water column. This may explain the green and brown veins and the dead PA may be floating to the top causing the floaty scum. I don't know, but it's the best mumbo-jumbo I got!


Attached Files
Pond Scum 1.jpg (1.75 MB, 460 downloads)
Pond Scum 2.jpg (1.75 MB, 460 downloads)
Pond Scum 3.jpg (1.8 MB, 460 downloads)

Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508791 07/11/19 11:28 AM
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Semi-useless comment here, but just noting that we also have had a bit of that same grayish bubbly film on and off over the past month now that it's gotten hot. Our pond is non-aerated, so the bubbles aren't purely aeration bubbles. This all coincided with the warmer temps, and what was previously extremely clear water with plenty of FA has now turned between olive green to slightly brown with much lower visibility and very little FA.

I'm thinking it's some kind of phytoplankton bloom (I hope at least), though I also wonder if it has to do with pellet feeding pretty heavily (the oily looking patches I would naively blame on uneaten pellets).

Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508793 07/11/19 11:58 AM
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I just found this (linked below) and it leads me to believe that I may have a couple things going on...

1.) Protozoan Scums (page 15)

"Whitish-grey scums appear often in still waters. They form a shiny, almost oily film on the surface of the water (A, B, C). Sometimes they will also appear as a “foam” (D). "

2.) Diatom Blooms (page 11)

"Floating diatom blooms (A, B) form a brown scum or film, often glistening, on the bottom or the surface of the water, coloring the water. Rarely is this scum evenly distributed. Most
commonly diatoms are found attached to rocks or other surfaces where they appear as a
glistening brown or golden brown gelatinous mass (C). "

Linked article...

https://www.townofchapelhill.org/home/showdocument?id=28866

There does not seem to be any real concern so life goes on.


Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508794 07/11/19 12:04 PM
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I think I found an old post discussing the same pond film. Sounds like it could be from decaying plants/animals. Not sure if this helps at all, but the pictures on page 2 look very similar.

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=170733


2.5 acres with LMB, RES, BG and CC
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508843 07/13/19 07:43 AM
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I got to the pond yesterday to find that my floaty scum has advanced into...





Here you can see that the scum is at the surface only. I turned the aerator on and it pushed the stuff out to expose the usual muddy looking water...



According to my research, it could be a one of the following or, more likely, a combination of...

Euglena and other flagellated algae,

Floating Cyanobacteria (Blue-Green Algae), and/or

Diatom Blooms


I have turned the aeration on full time thinking that DO is more important than water temp. If I see water temps hitting the 90's, I guess I'll reduce aeration? Any advice here?

I have also taken this mornings readings and will take a noon sample and a 5pm sample...

Time - 6:30am in BOLD , 12noon in RED, 5pm in GREEN

Ambient Temps - 75, 86, 90

Secchi Disk Reading - 12" (taken away from the scum for the most part), 13", 13"

Water temps - Top to Bottom 79 F., Top to Bottom 81 down to 79 F, Top to Bottom 83 down to 79

DO - 4-5 ppm, 4-5 ppm, 6.0ppm

TDS - 51 ppm, 54ppm, 56ppm

pH - 7 , 6.5, 7

Ammonia - 0.25 ppm, between zero and 0.25 ppm, between zero and 0.25 ppm

Nitrates - 0.0 ppm, 0.0 ppm, 0.0ppm

Phosphates - between zero and 0.25 ppm, between zero and 0.25 ppm, between zero and 0.25 ppm


I gathered a good amount of the light green, dark green, & dark brown floaty scum in a fine net and there was no smell whatsoever, maybe a slight pond smell.

This evenings photo op...




Attached Files
Floaty Scum 01.jpg (1.81 MB, 343 downloads)
Floaty Scum 02.jpg (1.88 MB, 336 downloads)
Floaty Scum 03.jpg (1.95 MB, 542 downloads)
Floaty Scum 04.jpg (1.84 MB, 308 downloads)
Last edited by Quarter Acre; 07/13/19 06:40 PM.

Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508867 07/14/19 09:51 AM
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Today's readings...

Time - 8am in BOLD , 1pm in RED, 5pm in GREEN

Ambient Temps - 80 F, 85 F, 88 F

Secchi Disk Reading - 11", 12", 12"

Water temps - Top to Bottom 80 F, Bottom 80 F - Top 84 F, Bottom 80 F - Top 84

DO - 4-5 ppm, 5-6 ppm, 6 ppm

TDS - 52 ppm, skip, skip

pH - 7, 7, 7

Ammonia - 0.25 ppm, skip, skip

Nitrates - 0.0 ppm, skip, skip

Phosphates - between zero and 0.25 ppm, skip, skip

I would say that the thick floaty scum has not increased in mass since yesterday morning or least not much. Total pond coverage by the thick stuff would be about 2-5% while the gray oil-like scum pushes 90%. I was also able to net out about 100 sq ft of scum.

The readings seem to be stable to me. The DO shows a slight increase as the day grows old and the PH is pretty flat.

Can anyone read anything interesting into my data?

Last edited by Quarter Acre; 07/14/19 06:34 PM.

Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508869 07/14/19 10:46 AM
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Mornin Noel,

What you have is exactly what I was fighting a few weeks ago. Mine got to the point of about 80% surface coverage. Never did have a smell, so I ruled out BGA from that viewpoint. Never did get an answer from anyone as to a possible ID, either. I assumed it was a reaction from the initial addition of pond dye...killing off a bloom.

Its nasty stuff regardless. Bottom aeration pushes it out away from the boil, but it doesnt dissipate. I assume it rises as its dying and may eventually go away on it's own, but the only way I could get rid of it was copper sulfate treatments and then the fountain to keep it down. My last visibility reading was 36" and increasing.

I've noticed that late of the evening, the grayish oil slick looks like it wants to come back, but when the fountain comes on, it knocks it back down.

If you get a solid answer as to what this stuff is, I'm thinking there's more than just myself that would like to know.


.10 surface acre pond, 10.5 foot deep. SW LA. The epitome of a mutt pond. BG, LMB, GSF, RES, BH, Warmouth, Longear Sunfish, Gambusia,Mud Minnows, Crappie, and now shiners!!...I subscribe!!
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508872 07/14/19 01:33 PM
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Good Day Mike, I hope all is well with you and yours...stay dry! Our ponds must be connected by some cosmic umbilical cord. They seem to parallel one another.

I appreciate your participation to my pond threads!


Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508885 07/14/19 07:32 PM
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It does seem like sometimes our ponds do tend to follow some parallels. I'm really enjoying how indepth your approach to managing your pond is. I dont have that much initiative...lol.

Today has been the wettest of the storm, but minimal rain, at best maybe an inch so far. I understand the need to emphasize the threats when a tropical system invades the coast, but I think the experts really sensationalized this event way beyond proportion.


.10 surface acre pond, 10.5 foot deep. SW LA. The epitome of a mutt pond. BG, LMB, GSF, RES, BH, Warmouth, Longear Sunfish, Gambusia,Mud Minnows, Crappie, and now shiners!!...I subscribe!!
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508889 07/14/19 09:14 PM
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Just to put my 2 cents worth in here, this looks like what I have every year. Here in the middle of Michigan we go through a number of problems called "spring". We get the "cotton wood fuzz", the maple tree helicopters, the pine tree pollen and a few other to boot! They all add something to the water, film, scum whatever. A good rain often clears it up, but a day of two later there is more. I am glad to see you all talking about this as I was concerned I may be the only one with these problems. The fish do fine, and I leave a bit of FA around the edges for the small fry, frogs and turtles. It doesn't look good but the fishing is, and we do not use it at all for swimming.


half-acre pond, LMB, HBG, BG, GSH and CC ....goal is to
have fun fishing. And I subscribe!
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508893 07/15/19 04:31 AM
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It's the same here Funky. Once the trees start to green up there is one type of pollen after another. For the longest, I wrote this off as pollen, but once we've gotten past that phase of spring, this mess just keeps going.

It looks alot like pollen, except pollen will usually seperate when you disturb it. This stuff doesn't.

The best way I've found to handle it is with surface agitation. Ponds that receive good wind dont seem to have this problem and since my pond is projected from wind, I've created my own form of agitation with a DIY fountain. Pond has been virtually free of it since the first day of running it. I know it's not gone...just being kept knocked down.


.10 surface acre pond, 10.5 foot deep. SW LA. The epitome of a mutt pond. BG, LMB, GSF, RES, BH, Warmouth, Longear Sunfish, Gambusia,Mud Minnows, Crappie, and now shiners!!...I subscribe!!
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508897 07/15/19 06:50 AM
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Good to see your DO reaches a more acceptable level late in the day but you should also measure ammonia late in the day as opposed to the AM. As for your "Nitrates", can I ask what type of test kit you are using? I think you may be measuring TAN Vs "Nitrates"? Either way, your water seems to be cycling healthy and the increased aeration seems to be helping.

I am with Mike and others on this one, it is either a plankton or pollen. Looking in your area for pollen contributors, it seems Ash trees are the main contributor this time of year.

https://www.stlouisco.com/Health-and-Wellness/Pollen-and-Mold-Center

Last edited by Joey Quarry; 07/15/19 06:53 AM.

2.5 acres, 87' Deep, Previously a Quarry
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508900 07/15/19 08:08 AM
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Mike and Funky - I don't know what this stuff is, but I do have thick pollen coverage in spring which will cover the pond surface entirely on a calm day. The early phase of this scum development resembled pollen, but was more oil-like. It tended to float in groups or cloud-like formations. Then, the real scummy stuff came on. I really don't think the pollen like stuff is related to the scummy stuff or maybe it's phases that its going through...IDK, but they are both co-existing currently. I was able to turn the aeration on 24 hr/day over the weekend and that may have helped break it up, but it seems to have stopped multiply/gathering and may be on the down hill run. Friday was definitely the worse of it so far. I did learn something about my aeration system...If I reduce the flow to the deepest diffuser and overrun the shallow ones, I get alot more surface agitation/movement.

Joey- I am using the API Pond Master Test Kit, but their literature does not specify Total Ammonia Nitrogen (TAN) or otherwise. And, I did run all the tests on Saturday (see post 508843, 7-19-19). The ammonia and phosphates stayed between 0.0 and 0.25 throughout the day while the nitrates stayed at 0.0. I figured retesting those parameters on Sunday was not too necessary. That, and I had other stuff to do. My main concern was DO. I had borrowed a YSI Pro 1020 and that made DO and pH readings fast and easy.

I am hoping that the arrival of my test kits fell on a down swing regarding DO, and things will improve as summer continues, but I will be monitoring on the weekends with the kits and visually daily. I'm torn between adding submerged plants to help with DO and/or improving clarity (which has me stumped). If my pond has higher nutrient levels, improving clarity boosts FA, but I can't get a good crop of submerged plants without better clarity.

One question...do my test results indicate any information regrading the pond's nutrient level??? I have always thought it was high, but don't understand how to quantify.

THANKS for chiming in folks!



Fish on!,
Noel
Re: Water Chemistry Log by QA
Quarter Acre #508906 07/15/19 09:11 AM
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,219
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,219
Submerged plants are a tricky deal. Pick the wrong kind and you've got another mess when they grow too deep. My summer visibility is always 3+' and I still dont have any naturally occurring submerged plants. I just hoping when they do show up it isnt something that'll grow up out of 10' deep.


.10 surface acre pond, 10.5 foot deep. SW LA. The epitome of a mutt pond. BG, LMB, GSF, RES, BH, Warmouth, Longear Sunfish, Gambusia,Mud Minnows, Crappie, and now shiners!!...I subscribe!!
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