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Heppy Offline OP
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I figured out how to eliminate approximately 90% of the submerged weeds without spending an arm and a leg. There was a 15-20 foot I inch galvanized steel pipe laying in the old barn. We tied 4 support lines to the pipe connected to a shackle. The shackle was connected to the rope that ran through the pulley tied off to the utv. The rope was then tied to the rack on the atv. The pipe was put on the front of the Jon boat trolled out to where we wanted to drop it in the water. After the pipe was dropped I tied the length of rope that ran through the pulley to the atv with a bowline knot. I drove the atv at 0-1 mph until the pipe with weed was on the shore. It was a continuous repeat of that same process until we removed what we wanted. Once all the weed and muck was on the bank we loaded up the waste on the tractor bucket and moved below the pond dam. Hopefully the addition of 15-20 GC this fall will make this an obsolete process in the years that follow.

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As long as it was plants that don't propagate via fragments you are golden!!


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Thanks for the help esshup! After dragging the pond I got in and walked barefoot on the pond bottom to feel the difference. I found throughout my walk there were places the plants were removed roots and all. In other areas there was a 1/4 inch soft carpet of remaining submerged weeds that had been mowed. The next step of adding 15-20 GC this fall will hopefully keep submerged weeds in check in future years.

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Originally Posted by esshup
As long as it was plants that don't propagate via fragments you are golden!!

This and all the manual labor involved ended up being nothing more than wishful thinking. The weeds have now reappeared to about half of the original amount in the beginning. What I believed to be Widgeon grass was identified as Naiaid. I spoke with the previous owner of a pond management company who made the identification. He told me I would need
Diquat 1 gallon per acre in liquid form. Dilute 50/50 with water
+
Clipper water soluble powder form algaecide 1 lb per acre
+
Hydrothol 191 salt based product 1/4 gallon per acre
All three mixed together in a backpack sprayer. Also add GC

Minimum of 3 treatments March-October if I were to do to it myself. As I have stated it is a flow thru pond and I can easily drop the level with the bottom drain. Dropping it 2-3 feet then closing the drain will allow the chemicals to work for a couple of days. This sounded like the way to go for me, then I added the cost for only the chemicals for 1 year. *********!
Now I’ve made initial contact with a pond/lake management company to see how much the different annual plans cost. Does anyone have a ballpark prices to be expected?

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Originally Posted by Heppy
Originally Posted by esshup
As long as it was plants that don't propagate via fragments you are golden!!

This and all the manual labor involved ended up being nothing more than wishful thinking. The weeds have now reappeared to about half of the original amount in the beginning. What I believed to be Widgeon grass was identified as Naiaid. I spoke with the previous owner of a pond management company who made the identification. He told me I would need
Diquat 1 gallon per acre in liquid form. Dilute 50/50 with water
+
Clipper water soluble powder form algaecide 1 lb per acre
+
Hydrothol 191 salt based product 1/4 gallon per acre
All three mixed together in a backpack sprayer. Also add GC

Minimum of 3 treatments March-October if I were to do to it myself. As I have stated it is a flow thru pond and I can easily drop the level with the bottom drain. Dropping it 2-3 feet then closing the drain will allow the chemicals to work for a couple of days. This sounded like the way to go for me, then I added the cost for only the chemicals for 1 year. *********!
Now I’ve made initial contact with a pond/lake management company to see how much the different annual plans cost. Does anyone have a ballpark prices to be expected?

Just use the clipper by itself or the Hydrothol 191 by itself. Be careful with the 191, apply it from the shore outwards to the deeper water - it can kill fish if the concentration is too much and they can't escape it.


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esshup, are you saying using Clipper alone will solve my submerged Naiaid problem if I drop the level of the pond allowing it a couple of days to work? If this is what you are saying how much Clipper, how many treatments and how often would I have to treat each year for my 2.7 acre pond (probably around 2.25-2.5 acre when the level is dropped)?
Thanks for the help!

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Originally Posted by Heppy
esshup, are you saying using Clipper alone will solve my submerged Naiaid problem if I drop the level of the pond allowing it a couple of days to work? If this is what you are saying how much Clipper, how many treatments and how often would I have to treat each year for my 2.7 acre pond (probably around 2.25-2.5 acre when the level is dropped)?
Thanks for the help!


Yes, maybe. Depending on how thick the Naiad is. Here is the label, read page 5 and 6. http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld9PS003.pdf

I wouldn't do more than 50% of the pond at one time, and even less if the water temp is over 75°F.


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Thank you for the link esshup!
Subsurface application I’m assuming is what you were implying? How do you determine whether to use 200, 300 or 400 ppb per surface acre? Also what adjuvant should be used? Should I delay treatment until next spring in order to treat the entire pond because the weed growth will die back in cold weather?
Thanks for your help!

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Originally Posted by Heppy
Thank you for the link esshup!
Subsurface application I’m assuming is what you were implying? Correct. How do you determine whether to use 200, 300 or 400 ppb per surface acre? Page 6, left column, center of column. Starting with "Use Table 3" Also what adjuvant should be used? Look at page 4, under additives. I typically use Cyget Plus surfactant. http://www.cygnetenterprises.com/products/cygnetplus.html Should I delay treatment until next spring in order to treat the entire pond because the weed growth will die back in cold weather? You will probably have better control with a more successful application if you apply it early in the Spring when the plants are starting to grow. Less plant biomass to kill, less worries about an O2 crash when they decompose, less FA growth on the plants to inhibit the Flumoxine uptake.
Thanks for your help!


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Esshup my 2.7 acre pond average 4 foot deep needs 4.2lbs of Clipper per surface acre according to table 3 to achieve 200ppb with subsurface trailing hoses. If my math is correct I will need 2.7 x 4.2 = 11.34lbs of Clipper to treat the entire pond next spring. According to the Cygnet plus label I need 1-2 gallons per acre. The amount of Cygnet plus I would need approximately 2.5 gallons. Is this correct?

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Originally Posted by Heppy
Esshup my 2.7 acre pond average 4 foot deep needs 4.2lbs of Clipper per surface acre according to table 3 to achieve 200ppb with subsurface trailing hoses. If my math is correct I will need 2.7 x 4.2 = 11.34lbs of Clipper to treat the entire pond next spring. According to the Cygnet plus label I need 1-2 gallons per acre. The amount of Cygnet plus I would need approximately 2.5 gallons. Is this correct?

Sorry for the late reply, I was out delivering fish. I would use 1 gallon per acre.


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No problem esshup. I’m assuming you are saying 1 gallon of Cygnet plus per acre and 11.34 pounds of Clipper is the correct amount. Thanks for your help!

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Originally Posted by Heppy
No problem esshup. I’m assuming you are saying 1 gallon of Cygnet plus per acre and 11.34 pounds of Clipper is the correct amount. Thanks for your help!

Just got back from another fish run. Yes, you are correct.


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Thank you for your help esshup! I truly appreciate it!

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Originally Posted by Heppy
Thank you for your help esshup! I truly appreciate it!

Let me know how it turns out. I am starting to wage war on Watermeal on my pond. Can't use Clipper because I don't want to kill the American Pondweed. Going with Stingray. I about had a heart attack when I found out the price.........


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