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Joined: Oct 2014
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Same here except I use #9 for the top dress. I really can't give you a reason why other than that is what my dad always did on the farm and it always seems to pack well.


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I will get back with the aggregate supplier and advise. Thanks to all. I'm learning a lot. Great subject for a post!


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I apologize now for what is to come but the subject has me making a stroll down memory lane. My dad also always lined the feed lot for the cattle we were fattening for our table and friend's tables with #2. His claim was the cattle did not like walking on it so all they did was eat, drink and lay down. Minimal muscle strength so very tender. Have to admit I never had a tough steak when growing up!


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I find the sizes some talk about on here completely foreign compared to what we get quoted locally.

Here is a PDF of rock sizes available at one of several different local quarry's.
Midwest minerals products

I don't know what many of the designations are. You can see that KDOT has their own specs.

AB3 is what we use to top roads and driveways as it has everything from about 1" down in size, with considerable fines for good packing.

2 1/2x 1 1/2 is what you see in my pictures of the stuff I sprinkled in the water. (used for lateral rock in septic sewage systems) What it means is everything that will pass through a 2 1/2" screen then taking out everything that will pass through a 1 1/2" screen ( in other words fines removed). The 2 1/2 x 0 means everything that will pass through a 2 1/2" screen including all fines.

Shot rock is loaded right from the explosive blast without being processed. I've only used it once in a crossing where we needed a lot of fill and some big rock. A couple of the rocks were 3' in diameter with everything below that without being run through a crusher.

I think the ASTM stuff is for concrete. I've been using ASTM 3/4 and man sand to make concrete around the farm for various projects. The man sand is more like chat and can't be finished like concrete with sand in it can.

Lots of rock grades on that chart I don't know what they are. If I need something other than what I've been using, best to just go to the quarry and look see what is in the piles.

Last edited by snrub; 11/11/14 11:13 PM.

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I called this aggregate supplier to confirm what was told to me and she referred me to their website. I asked her to confirm pricing from my previous call and the sales lady told me the same $600.00 for a 13 Ton load. Larger sizes up to 5" limestone per 13 ton load is $630.00. From 5" - 12" limestone per 13 ton load is $700.00. 18" Limestone is $750.00 per 13 ton load. Just out of curiosity I asked how much their pea gravel and rainbow rock (river)was. It is $600.00 per 13 ton load. Go figure.....That is $46.15/Ton. Then, she indicated that all of their aggregate (rock) was $600.00/13ton load....


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One thing about buying crushed rock, you will immediately notice that pricing for rock with the fines left in is a lot cheaper per ton than rock that has been graded with the fines taken out. The higher cost is because they have to run the material over another set of screens to take the fines out.

But that does NOT mean that the rock with fines will actually be cheaper for your project. It depends. grin

If you need it to pack, like for a road finish, then the fines are needed so it will pack in all the voids with the fines.

But if you are just wanting the rock to go for a long ways or do not need the fines for your project, don't think you are getting the fines for almost free. Far from it.

Order one same tons size of load of each and have them piled side by side. The cleaned crushed rock (fines removed) will be considerably physically bigger than the ones with fines left in. That is because the fines are very heavy and fill in all the air pockets between the larger rocks.

So if the larger size rock is what you need without fines, order it without fines because even if it cost more per ton it will also go a lot further in whatever project you are doing because it weighs considerably less per cubic measure!

Last edited by snrub; 12/06/16 08:04 PM.

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IMO Snrub is THE MAN when it comes to using stone for erosion control. Strongly consider his advice. I followed his advice for my pond and I went from having a muddy pond after a half inch of rain to having a clear pond even after 3 or 4 inches of rain. He knows this stuff!


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About a year ago, I got an 11-ton load of maximum size 1-1/4 inch limestone with fines delivered for $200.00. There are several quarries within 25 miles. Most was used to cover the clay floor of my pole shed. About one ton or so I hauled to the pond.

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Looks like I need to add some rock lining to my old pond.

My old refurbished pond is kind of my "trash" pond. It gets minimal management and has BH as well as GSF along with more desirable fish. So I really had no intention of spending the time or money on taking much care of it. But after seeing the erosion along the northern bank it has made a nice natural bench. So I think some time this summer I am going to drop some rock around at least the north side to stop the erosion.

First two pictures are of the north side where the bank erosion (from wind and waves) is happening. The third picture is of the south shore where there is a good stand of water primrose which seems to be keeping the erosion in check.

Water is pretty clear right now because during winter mostly north winds where the waves are hitting the south shore which is protected by the water primrose. But I am sure with more south winds of summer the bank erosion on the north shore will add to water turbidity if I do not get the rock lining done.

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Last edited by snrub; 03/17/18 09:58 PM.

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Here is the results of adding some rock to prevent the bank erosion in the pictures of the previous post. I still need to do a little hand leveling with a rake or shovel to even it out but otherwise this is the amount of rock it will get.

I only did about a fourth the way around the pond where the wave action was causing problems. In the third picture of the previous post you will see dormant water primrose protecting the bank from erosion. Where I had the water primrose and no erosion I did not put the rock. The Primrose should come back this spring and protect the bank in those locations. If it doesn't, I'll add rock as needed.

A couple years ago I heard one comment where some people did not like the looks of the rock. I can appreciate that but can also vouch that in about three years the rock will not even be seen. Grass will grow up and cover it up where it is not even noticeable. The difference being with only grass wave action can still wash out the dirt among the roots and undercut the dam. With the rocks the grass roots will be interwoven in the rocks creating a solid wave barrier protecting the dam or shore line. It has worked well in my main pond.

The crushed limestone rocks used are what is called locally as "lateral rock". It is cleaned rock used in septic system drain fields. It is about 2-3" in diameter. In this one acre pond it should work well. In a big pond or lake with larger waves larger rock would be needed to keep it from washing away into deeper water.

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Last edited by snrub; 04/08/18 11:00 AM.

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I put rock on the dam as it has the longest fetch in the lake, plus the most dire consequences from erosion. Rock, or at least transporting rock, can be expensive!

By the way, Bob Lusk told me that it helps the pond if the rocks are of different sizes, as various crustaceans and fish will use them at different stages of their life. Adds forage for the big guys.

Last edited by anthropic; 04/08/18 09:59 PM.

7ac 2015 CNBG RES FHM 2016 TP FLMB 2017 NLMB GSH L 2018 TP & 70 HSB PK 2019 TP RBT 2020 TFS TP 25 HSB 250 F1,L,RBT -206 2021 TFS TP GSH L,-312 2022 GSH TP CR TFS RBT -234, 2023 BG TP TFS NLMB, -160




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I put creek rock along my dam as the photo shows. The rock was hand picked so the sizes ranged from baseball size to as big as I could load. I can really see the benefit only a year later. In the photo you can see the uphill rocks were laid to be about 5 or 6 inches tall and the lower rocks were a bigger variety. Today the earth that has migrated down the dam is level with the top of the uphill rocks. My seeding efforts took very well, so this migration of dirt is mostly settling. This proved to me that rock perimeters really help. If it was not for the rock band, the dirt that is now being held back would be mud in the water. The main reason I put the rock in was for crawdads, but the erosion benefits would be worth it by itself.



Note the upsides down carpet under the rock. I am a pack rat and had saved (for years without the thought of its final destination)just enough scrap carpet to cross my dam . I was pretty proud to have had the carpet available, but even more so that it had found a use and I was relieved of the pile of "stuff" in the shop loft.


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Old carpet is a great idea to put under the rock. Thanks for the pictures. They will help others giving consideration to using rock lining for their pond banks.

Nice job.

Last edited by snrub; 04/10/18 09:40 PM.

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Over the winter had a small amount of erosion on the south shore line so I am adding some additional rock. The small amount of erosion made a nice 12-18" wide "bench" for the rock to sit on.

I had previously mostly focused on the north shore because our predominant summer south/ southwest winds caused turbidity that I could see happening. Being a snow bird I had not thought about what would happen during the winter and was not around to witness the winter time erosion from the NW winds. But some happened so I have been on a mission to nip it in the bud.

Also am using some larger rock than I have in the past on the areas that are exposed to the largest waves. I think my rock supplier calls it 4 by 5 (rocks that will pass through a 4"x5" square screen) with the fines screened out (so only large rocks).

I dump about a half bucket of my small tractor, then with the bucket at an angle approximating the slope of the pond back drag the rock up solid against the bank. Then I tamp it in place with the bucket.

Pictures below.

Note: water level is about 9" below full pool. At full pool the water will be within a couple inches of the top of the rocks. The low water level makes this a really good time to do this as I can see the bench and see what I am doing really well.


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Last edited by snrub; 07/07/18 12:06 AM.

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