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I am about to build a small pond in central Indiana using a backhoe. The pond will be fed by an artesian well. I will leave it unstocked for the summer to see if it stays cool enough for trout, but if not, I will try to use for building forage fish populations. I am a novice operator and would like to keep the pond as small as possible while making it functional. I am looking for suggested depths, dimensions and slopes. I think that I know how to make it water tight.

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Cecil has a few 1/10 ac ponds, oval in shape, probably 10' deep. Slopes are too steep to walk on. You'd need a ladder to get out if you fell in and the water level wasn't to the top of the pond.

Depending on water flow, run it thru a packed column to oxygenate the water before it enters the pond, and let the overflow run to another pond.

Personally, I wouldn't make the slopes steeper than 3:1.


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The problem that I have is at 10 feet deep at a center point and a 3:1 slope, I think the pond would be 60 feet in diameter. I am wondering about something more like 30 feet in diameter with some type of shelf around the edges for safety. Has anyone done this?

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Rah, from what esshup said here my small sediment pond is built like Cecils. And I worried something or someone would fall in, so I cut in 2 small shelf area's so they could get out if needed. And because the pond banks were steep I was not able to pack clay close to the surface due to the steep banks. So I saw some seepage and used some of TJ's product and so far it has worked pretty good. Not sure this will help u any but thought I would pass on my experience.

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Thank you. I have the advantage that I can cut off the water if I need to adjust things later. I have good clay down low, but will likely need to core one end to keep the seepage down. I have space to do this post digging if needed. I will probably see where the water level ends up from the well first. If the seepage is low, things may be OK.

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Originally Posted By: RAH
I am about to build a small pond in central Indiana using a backhoe. The pond will be fed by an artesian well. I will leave it unstocked for the summer to see if it stays cool enough for trout, but if not, I will try to use for building forage fish populations. I am a novice operator and would like to keep the pond as small as possible while making it functional. I am looking for suggested depths, dimensions and slopes. I think that I know how to make it water tight.


One thing I have found with my tiniest pond is that the Herrons love it. The fish can't get very far away from a bird. The other thing (that is likely only applicable in my situation) is that the pond is so small in volume, and since it is a sediment pond in line where the runoff goes through it before the main pond, it gets huge water exchange levels during a big rain event. It might have complete water exchanges on the order of ten or twenty times in a period of a day or two. The fish grow like crazy in it and do well. Till we have one of those huge rains. Then it is too much for some of the larger fish. Found some dead ones the last big rains and not many fish left. Now with subsequent rains lots of small 2" BG have either swam upstream and repopulated it or the small ones survived the high flow through.

Just one thing to be aware of. If the small pond is in line with a big pond where it gets huge water exchanges, the fish in it may suffer at times. I suspect big temperature and ph changes with high water exchanges.


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Anything deeper than 36" is pointless, oxygen levels will be dropping off

At that average depth you will have stable temps as the season varies, you will be able to move around and reach all parts, arrange plantings where you can reach them

Any configuration shallower will warm and cool fast and encourage algae

A slightly deeper area to which debris can drift to and collect might be convenient to dredge, consider it a sump

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I think that our seasons will result in fish kills in a very shallow pond. Maybe a shelf at 2 foot would discourage GBHs?

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I have to agree with snrub with the water changes after big rains in my sediment pond. I will get some muddy water after experiencing 1+" rains. But I have decided to use it to raise FHM's and so far they survive the muddy water for short periods of time. I just use the water well to dilute the solids back. the excess water goes into the big pond and the FHM's seem to get through it all

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I have a sediment pond and understand its limitations. This pond will be filled with an artesian well and has very very little watershed.

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Well, if it doesn't rain much, I'll start digging after work on Friday. If I can pick up the operation of the backhoe, then I am hoping to finish by Sunday afternoon. Will dig a hole in the middle and try to slope down at a 3:1 slope from the banks to the hole. If I hit any field tiles, I'll need to remove them for at least 20 feet and repack with clay on the downward side. This will be my first time running the hoe my brother gave to me (crazy brother).

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Did he give you a dump truck too smile
I think it should be a law that every backhoe comes with a dump truck. They go hand in hand. Soon after digging you'll say start to realize that all the dirt is in your way and you need to move it again.

Get down to the depth you want the first time. Makes for a lot more work if you don't.

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He also paid to ship it to me 600 miles and said there would be a bonus item. It was a 75 HP dozer! No dump truck though:)

Thanks for the digging advice.

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Wow, a dozer too!!!!!!!!!

At least with the dozer you can push the dirt away from the backhoe area.

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The loader on the backhoe holds 1.5 yds. That will move a lot of dirt if I can operate it OK.

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Have fun.

Pictures when you get a chance. I'm curious what models you are getting.

Like fish n chips says, getting the dirt out of the way soon catches up to your digging. The more you can think about your dirt placement and the fewer times you have to move it the better. I always end up changing my mind on something and move it more than is efficient.

Last edited by snrub; 05/31/16 08:41 AM.

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I have them and a neighbor/mechanic has gone through them: JD 410E hoe and JD 550G dozer. If I become a reasonable operator, they will do a lot of work. I think that I can spread the dirt on the lower edge of the pond area. This will also help prevent unwanted guests during a really big flood.

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Those should be nice machines and reasonably late model.

JD 410E backhoe

JD 550G dozer

You have a generous brother! My brothers could only wish for as much!

Last edited by snrub; 05/31/16 09:15 AM.

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He says that he doesn't want to operate junk when he visits:) He can make construction equipment sing.

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NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The only downfall of a backhoe compared to an excavator is that it can only swing arc of 160° - 180° to deposit what you dug instead of 360° like an excavator can.

Thumb??


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I am only seeing upside to these gifts. No thumb.

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if it were me, I would probably have two many ponds after it is all said and done smile

Like snrub said, Have fun

Tracy


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No such thing as too many ponds! I have two additional larger ponds that I would hire done right now if I could find the right contractor. The last fellow came by and looked over the sites. He seemed good and positive about the projects, but never contacted me again with a proposal. While I could contact him again, I really do not want a contractor that is not enthusiastic about the projects.

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Are you going to/getting ready for your brother to do the new ponds?

In defense of the guy you never heard back from. Stuff happens. Computers crash, cell phones damaged, lots of other possibilities, etc. If you really liked him, I would reach out one more time to see what's up.... don't like his response, move on.

Why not use the dozer to cut in the small pond? Especially if you have tapered sides.

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He may well dig these ponds, but he lives aver 600 miles away and has his own excavating/masonry work to do. Ponds are somewhat weather dependent, so it would be hard to schedule and he would need to rent a large excavator and a real operator for the dozer. The small pond that I will be doing will have a deep hole in the center with a ledge and taper near the edges for safety. I feel that I can work slowly with the hoe until I get some experience. I do have a dozer project also planned. This will be a bermed wetland. I will likely still core and pack the core of the berm with the hoe, but will use the dozer to strip the topsoil and build the dam above grade. I also purchased a pull type sheepsfoot roller that I now have a dozer to pull. My small tractor would have really struggled to pull it.

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