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Seems like the system should work well for any size pond if the intention is to simply keep a hole open in the ice along one edge of the pond. Most recommendations I have heard on this forum for winter operation is to place the diffuser shallow (4' or so to keep from super cooling the BOW). So from that respect it would not matter the depth of the pond.

Thanks for the update. I may get interested in solar aeration some day as my old pond could use it. But it will be for summer use in a different type of application. But what you have learned and shared here on the forum can still be useful information should I decide to try it.


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Looks pretty cool Jeff!


Last edited by JKB; 01/07/16 07:38 AM. Reason: moved reply
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mnfish Offline OP
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After another successful winter, the adventure continues and the demand is mounting...."every time I try and get out they keep pulling me back in" grin

Version 6.0 of the MN solar powered shallow water aerator coming soon to this forum.

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mnfish, I just arrived on this site. Seems to me I have a huge learning curve to surmount. But I'm always up for a challenge. Every time I'm on here I learn something, and I need to subscribe. Dan

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mnfish Offline OP
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I am very late on my promise but I am going to keep it (life gets in the way sometimes)...Some pics of my DIY direct powered solar aerator design are shown below. There are now 4 ponds in MN using this system versions 4.0 and 5.0.

I will be shooting a brief youtube video with 6.0 up and running by the end of May. In the video, will explain the design, it's strengths, limitations, and the components used to construct. I will be disclosing and answering ANY and ALL questions about the design and my six years of development for FREE. It's the least I can do to say thanks for all that I have learned here on PondBoss over the last 9-10 years.

I hope I don't embarrass you but I feel its necessary...A special thanks to Scott(esshup) for all the inputs and help over the last couple of years. An overall great guy that I hope to meet one day. Please support his business!

Again my apologies for my tardiness to those interested.

Version 6.0. The design can be built for around $900.








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Great job Minfish, now if you could do the same with a surface aerator/agitator, I could use one of those two smile

Tracy


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Good job MNfish!
Looking forward for the video.
Thank you


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Originally Posted By: ItalyBASS
Good job MNfish!
Looking forward for the video.
Thank you


Agreed. I may go this route. Thanks MNfish!


9 yr old pond, 1 ac, 15' deep.
RES, YP, GS, FHM (no longer), HBG (going away), SMB, and HSB (only one seen in 5 yrs) Restocked HSB (2020) Have seen one of these.
I think that's about all I should put in my little pond.
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Mnfish, that is pretty cool. I'll be waiting on the vid for sure.


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MN,

Have you checked your O2 levels during the 3-4 am lows? I understand that in MN your water temps will not be as high as Texas, so your O2 demand and saturations will be different.

One thing to caution anyone down south using your system is that it does not work at night, and that is when we need it most. Further, during the still, hot, and cloudy days of summer, your production will be limited.

With that said, nicely done!


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Glad there is interest fellas! I believe this technology is another tool in fish management. I can tell you there are some very thankful guys here in MN that didn't think it possible to have a fish pond(s) on their remote hunting lands.

Brian- I have NOT done any DO testing with the system. The video will only be for purposes of demonstrating the "technology" and how I have been applying it here in central MN. A resource to shorten a persons learning curve should they want to try it.

I make no claims to it's success in any region of the US or outside the US...Purely educational!

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I understand, and I think its cool, but we do need to make sure other regional folks understand its limitations.

Again, well done. I do like the LCB and I might try one in Shemptopia this summer to gather more data.


Brian

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mnfish Offline OP
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Thank you Brian. I'm with you sir and couldn't agree more! I most certainly don't want to send people down the wrong path or worse, be responsible for killing their fish pond!

Side Note: I know you are very experienced in solar power, so please excuse me if I'm insulting your intelligence.....

If you mess around with a direct drive compressor. Keep in mind "off the shelf" LCB's are generally set for water pumping. Usually around 14V. Most 12VDC compressors (in my experience) will run too fast at 14V and burn out. Where ever you buy your solar components ask for a custom LCB set at 12.5-13V. FWIW


Last edited by mnfish; 04/28/16 10:28 AM.
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I love to learn, no insult here.

Great info on the LCB voltage issue. Good to know.


Brian

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Great thread.

In my application, if I ever decide to put air in my old pond, I will need to use a battery system for day/night operation in the summer rather than keeping ice open in the winter. But your experience shared on the components is outstanding.

Thanks!

Last edited by snrub; 04/28/16 11:14 AM.

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Really nice, Jeff!!

If that light switch is switching DC current, you may want to swap that out with a circuit breaker or some other switch that is rated for DC.

On AC, arc quench is quite quick due to the sinusoidal wave form, but DC can arc quite a bit unless the contacts are hard and fast. Arcing causes failure.

Cool stuff!!!

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Thanks Phil! I will look into getting DC rated switches....just another thing to learn about and source. crazy grin

Anything else you notice please hit me between the eyes with it. I really appreciate the teaching!!!!!!

Last edited by mnfish; 04/28/16 01:44 PM.
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MN,

I found DC breakers are easy to use and rated for the voltages I run. I get mine from Midnite solar. Same place I get my charge controllers.


Brian

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Brian,

I would rather do something UL-508 rated on the control side, but the CB's that Midnight Solar had qualified by an independent lab seem to be decent.

They are telecom DC breakers that have been re-purposed.

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Originally Posted By: mnfish
Thanks Phil! I will look into getting DC rated switches....just another thing to learn about and source. crazy grin

Anything else you notice please hit me between the eyes with it. I really appreciate the teaching!!!!!!


Send me an email with what you have. I'll do a cartoon with the right stuff. May just cut your research time down.

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Thanks Brian

Phil- I am working on the project tonight and will post a more detailed picture of the complete pump electronics. The switch box is used to cut the power from the panel to the aerator electronics. That switch (currently, but could change) is used less than 4 times a year.

BTW- I love the smell of flux, solder, and Coors light on a Thursday evening. cool


Last edited by mnfish; 04/28/16 03:51 PM.
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Mn - any new updates?


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This is MNFISH....I am having one of those IT kind of weeks. My email has been shut down and I don't remember my pondboss password. Anyway....I am reallly close to posting up some pics and shooting a "how to construct video". Within the next week for sure. This project is all I'm doing right now with no real job holding me down laugh

Added a few new features too. 12V Battery/charge controller for lights at the pond (night fishing) and power plug in to run my fish feeder.

I have 3 friends who wanted one and hope to post pictures of all three of their woodland ponds.

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sounds awesome man!


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Agreed! Looking forward to pics and details.


9 yr old pond, 1 ac, 15' deep.
RES, YP, GS, FHM (no longer), HBG (going away), SMB, and HSB (only one seen in 5 yrs) Restocked HSB (2020) Have seen one of these.
I think that's about all I should put in my little pond.
Otter attack in 2023
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