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Last edited by JKB; 11/09/13 06:19 PM.
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Ha Ha! This has become personal for you Phil! BTW if it's the pvc pipe in the way of completely opening the control door is you beef, it's not necessary as there are control buttons on the outside. And if one does need to get into the control box all you have to do is disconnect the Fernco coupler. If only I was capable of building this gizmo that Phil thinks is a Rube Goldberg monstrosity!
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 11/09/13 07:04 PM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Cecil, I think the door beef is mine. You don't want to be messing around with electronics that close to the water. Plus, the control box is below grade in the sump pit. I believe water can fill the pit if something goes wrong, or if it rains like crazy, so that's not a good place for the control box. The buttons on the outside of the box don't help much when you have to go inside the box to make some fixes or adjustments.\ I listed some other "beefs" that I had in the PM you got.
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Not personal at all Cecil. However people want to DIY a project is up to them. Many people with many ideas out there. Some good, and some not so well thought out. What I wanted to point out here is that the electrical control system is below grade in the sump, as esshup stated. If you notice in the thread, it's actually below the pond level. It should be high-n-dry. Just not a very bright thought on location. It took me a while to stop laughing tho
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WOW that dude has way to much time on his hands. I read and skimmed through the whole thread and could not quite get what a RDF is. Some type of a filter but could not quite get how it really worked.
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RDF = Rotating Drum Filter. From what I understand, water goes into the drum from the center end and flows out the "bottom" and "sides" of the drum as it rotates. When the drum screen or filter starts to get plugged, the nozzles turn on, washing the screen clear. What I haven't figured out yet (I haven't looked either) is how the solids that are clogging the screen that the nozzles wash off get out of the inside of the drum, and how the nozzles determine when to turn on. They might be on a timer, or there might be a level sensor for the water level inside the drum.
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Donabbd, First of all a good rotating drum filter is an extremely effective way to remove solids from a koi pond or aquaculture system. The good quality ones that are aquaculture grade start at about 5 grand. And they are extremely efficient as one I've been looking at uses power rated in watts. I saw 25 watts but not sure it that is continuous or only during a cleaning cycle. The specs are below Phil. http://www.koiacres.com/koi-acres-products/rotary-drum-filter/kc-60-rdf-filter.html What I haven't figured out yet (I haven't looked either) is how the solids that are clogging the screen that the nozzles wash off get out of the inside of the drum,... There's a channel in the drum where the solids exit after the nozzles wash the solids into it. ...and how the nozzles determine when to turn on. They might be on a timer, or there might be a level sensor for the water level inside the drum. You got it right. On and off of the nozzles can either be turned on periodically by a timer, or when the screen clogs enough for the water level to go up, a water level detector senses that and turns on the nozzles. I will probably purchasing the unit above for my coldwater setup in the pole barn as 5 grand is a little out of my budget after all the other expenses. I'm basically doing the same thing as the koi pond people in that I am raising large high value fish at lower than food production densities. Densities have to stay below .25 lbs per gallon to preclude fin erosion on the trout. (Nipping and aggressive behavior). Wear and tear by concrete raceways is myth. It's nipping and biting of fins by fish that are in high densities as in raceways. My plan is to use a DIY (RFF)Radial Flow Filter or Parbolic Sieve Wire filter for each 2000 gallon tank with final mechanical filtraton with a (RDF) rotating drum filter. Then the water goes to the bilogical filter of my choice, which would be an DIY RBC (Rotating Bilogical Contact Filter) , DIY MBBR,(Moving Bed Bioreactor) or DIY (Fluidized Bed Sand Filter) FBSF. Could also be a combination of the three as I have 3 RBC's at my disposal and MMBR's are really easy to build. I've also built a large FBSF but haven't used it yet. I'm researching airlifts and if can move all the water via air that would be one heck of an efficient system. The cool thing is most of these filters I can and have built myself to keep costs down. The rotating drum filter is above my pay grade and it's probably one of those things, when all is said and done, you're better off buying as someone else has already worked out all the problems. BTW here's the RFF (Radial Flow Filter) that according to some studies I have read reamoves about 48 percent of the solids before the water goes to a RDF (Rotating Drum Filter). This reduces wear and tear and cycling on the RDF. And in case of problems the RDF can temporarily be bypassed. http://www.earthangroup.com.au/diy-solids-filter/ The following DIY sand/gravel filter may be my best option to remove iron from the well water before it reaches the system. Periodical cleaning with a 1 hp blower or shop vac seems to be fairly easy. Or it just may be a way to get some additional polishing. I have two barrels and a siphon that works quite well but not sure how well it will work for increased flows. http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?68132-Birdman-s-Sand-Gravel-Filter
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 11/10/13 10:44 AM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Cecil, do you have a link to the one that uses 25 watts?
I remember you posted one a while back that was made from plastic and used conductivity sensors for level. I kinda liked that one. The size was just about right. I think it was a video link.
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OK, the 25 watt power consumption is with the unit on standby and not while running.
I see they have made a number of improvements since the prototype video.
Last edited by JKB; 11/10/13 10:29 AM.
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OK, the 25 watt power consumption is with the unit on standby and not while running. Still not bad power consumption compared to other commercial filters out there. I see they have made a number of improvements since the prototype video. Yeah they had some bugs to work out, however, most of the people that bought them are very happy with them from what I have seen on the Koiphen Forum. Customer service seems to be really good. Here's another one that may be available to the Koi folks: http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?141408-Profidrum-RDF-is-coming-to-the-US
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 11/10/13 10:40 AM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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What are they using for a pump on the spray bars? I didn't see any mention to on their web site.
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I thought I read something in a thread about a "jet pump?" But I could be totally wrong on that. I'll see if I can find that thread and find the answer.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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I like that Profidrum. Kinda the way I was thinking of doing the direct drive on the center axle and cam followers on the other side of the drum. I have a boat load of 304SS sheet and 4 or 5 turbine pumps that will do about 300 psi. Maybe I should get some cartoons started. I see what you mean in the PM about getting a rig set up. I did not realize how big this industry is. It would be the only one out there with a Made In The USA sticker on it, even if it is only one unit Making it work with air lift pumps would be a challenge, but really sweet if it worked well.
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Yeah the airlifts will be tricky and I'll have really do my homework. The rbc's will work better than other filters with airlifts as they don't need a pump to run. Even though Summerfelt et al. suggest fbsf (fluidized bed sand filters) for salmonids, I don't like the idea of the extra utility cost to fluidize the sand. And I've heard the sand filters can be tricky.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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If anybody wants to make one like the DIY one, use blue barrels, not white. I've found that the white barrels get brittle over time, where I have not seen that with the blue barrels.
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I agree but inside where UV isn't an issue I prefer the white ones for a clarifier barrel because I can see whether I've flushed out all the solids.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 11/10/13 02:41 PM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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OK, I had to jar a few brain cells loose as to where I left off on this a few years ago. The RDF would be a cartridge drop in style unit with only the trash hose to disconnect, then you can yank it right out. Where I left off was was dealing with the constant level/submerged requirements for utilizing air lifts. All you are doing with air lifts is moving water from one chamber to another. There is no real positive pressure as you would expect in head from a centrifugal pump. You may not even see the water move, but it's circulating, and can be quite a bit. One of the brain cells rejoined me today (out on vacation, lucky SOB ) OK, in a constant level system, as with an air lift system, it may be difficult, except with some really good sensors, to measure level differential as to when to clean the filter. That brain cell's buddy chimed in and said, Hey dude, just measure the flow! If it's restricted in an air lift rig, the water flow will slow down, and you can detect that. As a cartridge unit, not gonna be able to do a direct drive thru the wall tho. Pretty glad I don't get all OCD and jump before the start gun Solved me an issue or two here Thanks!!!
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The president of Ohio's Aquaculture Association, Bob Calala runs a system on air lifts. I had a chance to go see it but didn't make it.
I believe there are lots of film footage on airlifts on Utube.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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If anybody wants to make one like the DIY one, use blue barrels, not white. I've found that the white barrels get brittle over time, where I have not seen that with the blue barrels. I have polypropylene white barrels that have been in the sun for a number of years, and no ill effects, unless you cut the top off and use it as a water target for some .44 Mag stuff, then the bet's are off. They tend to leak a bit after that The Blue pigments probably have some carbon black in them, so that would slow down degradation to UV exposure.
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The white ones that I have for the pier are brittle. A couple cracked when I was pushing the pier into the water, and I think at least one more that is under the pier is taking on water.
On another note, is there anything that can be used to monitor (on a daily/weekly/monthly basis) energy usage for a 3/4 to 1.5 hp 120v motor? Nothing fancy or really expensive, basically something that could be plugged into an outlet and the motor plugged into that monitor is what I'm looking for.
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If your barrels are PP, and breaking down, they may be quite a bit older than you think. Could be some other material. Don't know of anything cheap and accurate for your measurement goals tho. Not plug in, but there may be something out there. Check with China, they usually have one of everything OK, the pigs feet have a distinct after taste to them. I hope it goes away soon
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They came out the other end about that time, rather abruptly tho. I had to move quick!!!
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If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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