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Originally Posted By: Kelly Duffie
Originally Posted By: MSC
OK, as for coyotes... If you set for coyotes like this you have to stake the trap down very good.
I'll have to disagree with you on staking leghold traps when targeting coyotes - and most other critters for that matter.
I trapped many yotes in my youth; both for pelts and to reduce their predation on cattle during calving season (btw: cows are loners when calving - and defenseless during the act, often yielding a gruesome outcome when discovered by a pack of coyotes).
As for the traps (which I still own), I used #3 jump-springs and #3 dbl long-springs.
Securing the traps to a heavy object (or "drag", ie. 40lb+ rock or green log); versus solid-staking the traps, allows the animal to move away from the site and eliminates pull-outs and chew-offs. Rarely did they move more than 50' from the set-site, and they appeared to remain relatively calm throughout the ordeal. It was easy to follow the drag-trail to locate and dispatch the trap's tenant.
I eventually switched to sodium cyanide devices as a much more efficient, target-selective and humane means for thinning the coyote population. These devices never miss; so the yotes never got the second-chance "education" that LH traps sometimes provide.


Sorry but when I set a trap I want it right there when I come back. No drags for me. No matter what steps in a trap this size you don't want it leaving with your trap. You might catch something much bigger and stronger than a yote. cool


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Originally Posted By: MSC
You might catch something much bigger and stronger than a yote. cool
Point duly noted! wink Hadn't thought about bears up there, which are extremely scarce down here.
Still, all of the trappers from whom I learned the trade back in the 60s/70s never condoned stake-downs on the basis that a stake-anchor gives the critter leverage to pull out - although usually absent a digit.
Staked trap-sets also increase the risk of a coyote's "liberation by teeth" (a trait that prompted the phrase "coyote-ugly", in reference to waking up in the morning after a night of heavy drinking, with your arm pinned beneath a homely stranger grin).
To each their own, but it's always good to know the merits and drawbacks of various options.

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I always used to give all my sets some runnin' room also....including when I used longsprings for rats, before conibears came into vogue. Build in right, and give em'some space, and a muskrat will try for deeper water, tangle and drown long before chewing a leg off.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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Originally Posted By: sprkplug
muskrat will try for deeper water, tangle and drown long before chewing a leg off.
I used a drowning-wire setup for both rats and beaver.

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Now that's fancy! We had to hunt up a limb, about 1.5-2" in diameter, with a few branches coming off at differnt angles. This would be stuck into the pond bottom, out in a little deeper water. There would be enough slack between the stake and the trap to allow the rat to reach the limb... any other limbs or logs that protruded from the water in the area of the set needed to be removed.

When the jaws clamp down, they would always head for deeper water, and right for the limb that you placed earlier. Nine out of ten times, they would circle the limb and become entangled in the branches which would of course..hold them down.

Hopefully, you had the limb shoved into the bottom well enough to hold em' until he ran out of air.

Crude, but poor people had poor ways and made do with what they had. smile


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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Use fish !! Yotes are a different matter. This one ate to many fish.





Dead fish that had been in an ice chest for a week - no ice. There was ice to start but relative they were left for did not come pick them up. A week later - yuck. Dumped them behind the block house . Yote came in and ate to many or maybe got a bone stuck. If you look close you can see fish on the ground and no marks (wounds) on the yote.
















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I have one! Otters! I have a pond that is frequented by those SOB'S! I find no obvious slides. I think I have found scat areas in the past. I know they visit, as I saw their rompings in the snow last winter, and a hole in the middle of the pond, where they were entering the water.

Do they like to eat freshwater mussels? I also found a new area with matted down slightly muddy grass, with the leg bones of a bull frog picked clean. Is there anything you can use to bait them? I guess my question is will they eat things they find laying that they did not catch themselves? I saw some videos of a guy catching sea otters by placing a 220 conibear over a bucket with fish in the bottom.

I find no fish parts, but am always finding freshly eaten mussel shells along the bank.


Give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat and drink beer.
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Coons eat shellfish (clams etc). Otters often don't eat the whole fish. Otters get steel or lead here.
















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Muskrats love mussels also, but usually leave the discarded shells in (under) the water.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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Okay smile LOL Coons and muskrats love mussels, but what about river otters? Are mussels on the menu? I'd love to have the opportunity to fill em full of lead, but I've only seen them 2 times. I don't believe they are residents, but only visit frequently. Do they operate at night?


Give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat and drink beer.
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The trick to holding fox and coyotes in staked traps is to short chain them. You want only a 6" chain with a good swivel in it. This way they can't lunge or jump with any momentum. They can just basically sit there and go around in circles. Very rare for canines to chew their foot to escape foot traps. But some other animals will.


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Otters. Now your talking... Bad news for ponds. Otters love all shellfish and fish. I use 330s and 280s and they are very effective. I would say 220s are too small. I know 220s can work but its easier for me to use bigger.

I do not target otters with cages or foot traps. I know that both have successfully been used for otters.

Nothing is better at slipping a foot hold trap than otters. I catch them with missing toes sometimes.


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I am on my phone know and I can't do it here but when I get to my puter I'll try to show specific otter sets I make with the 330s and 280s

If your pond is fed by a creek or stream, it is easy to get them coming thru there. smile


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My pond is actually the head waters. It has a 12" i.d. tube. I know coons use the tube. I would truly appreciate it the info!. I used to trap some when I was a teenager, but never tried for otters.


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To answer James question, otters are the most efficient killer. But yes they will come to fish something else killed. And they can be baited. I do not use bait or lure. Don't need it with conibears.


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I've always been nervous about using conibears larger than 110 above water. I'm afraid of catching dogs and cats, maybe my own! Not saying I wouldn't do it.


Give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat and drink beer.
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I use 330s mostly.
















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In my state you can set 330s as long as the trap is "partially" in water. Many other states it must be underwater.

They are indiscriminate and deadly. Be very careful. The first animal that comes thru will be dead right there.


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For me personally, I rarely try for the otters in a pond or lake. They could go anywhere once they are in it. It is easier for me get them as they come or go from the pond. Otters use creeks as highways. Even very small shallow creeks.

You simply make the otter swim through your 330 or 280 as they travel the creek. Use sticks or whatever is natural to block the creek except the gap where your trap is. The otter is moving taking the path of least resistance he will not plow thru brush or sticks. He will go for the opening.

Very important... I use a 10ft 1/8" cable attached to the trap with a swivel. It has a loop and quick clip that I attach to a tree on the shore. Otters will fight like crazy even if suitcased by a 330.


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Which came first? The chicken or the egg.


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RES,HBG,YP,HSB,SMB,CC,and FHM. .seasonal trout.
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test pic



If anyone can see that pic, it is a small feeder creek right before it enters the pond. Anything moving down that creek, guess where its going?

Last edited by MSC; 10/15/13 01:04 AM.

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Here is two small creeks coming together which are the overflow from the beaver dam in the background. I just used minor fencing with sticks that were right there. Anything swimming down this creek is coming through the gap in the middle. And it will be their last swim. cool


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MSC I do mine like that as well. I use small dog chain for secondary anchor. I have only lost 1 trap in 20 years. Fairly sure it was to humans. No bears here.

Place is remote so no pets around just beaver , otter and other problem species. Here is one strange catch for you.







Trap was under water due to high water and I assume this bird chased a fish but got more than what he wanted.

Last edited by ewest; 10/15/13 06:08 AM.















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Ewest cool pic. That's the thing about conibears, they do pick up non targets. You can imagine looking at the sets, around here, ducks and geese are going to occasionally get popped. I have even heard of trout being caught in conibears set for otters or mink.


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Here are some tips for conibears, for those looking at these pics that have not used one before...

You cant see it but I use an H type stand for the trap. The trap attaches to the top half and you push the 2 bottom prongs into the creek bottom, it holds it there nice and sturdy. It makes placing them much faster.

By all means I suggest a tongs type setter and a safety hook for the bigger ones like 330s and 280s. Once you set it, if you get your hand in the firing zone, you will wear it home with you.


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