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Joined: Oct 2013
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I am new to PB and have been looking over past posts to see what information I could gather but it seems that every pond has it own unique conditions, so thought I would post.
I have contracted with NF&W service to renovate my existing pond since it was choked out with Lillie's.

We have agreed that once it was drained

that it would sit for 2 yrs to kill off existing vegetation and then allow the pond to fill back up the following spring. The new dam has been install and we will begin the 2 years of the waiting game.

I am wondering about the muck in the pond and your guys thoughts as they are leaving it to be compacted back down over time and say it should not have any issues with the muck afterwards. Just seems to me that it would act like a sponge and just absorb the water back up and create the same bottom texture, I may be wrong though.
While empty what are some of the major thing I should address if any, like the side vegetation, island, trees,etc?
We are considering putting in a deep spot to winter over fish, and for a little swimming hole but don't have any idea if it can be done yet as we don't know the bottom composition yet.
Any thoughts will be most appreciated.

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Welcome to the forum!!

Your gut feeling is correct.

If you don't dig the lilies out, and the corresponding muck, when you fill it back up with water, within a couple of months they'll be back. Seeds stay viable for years and years.

Same thing happened to an area near here. Drought drained a low area. It was so dry for a few years that grass grew and cattle were grazing on the grass. When we had enough water, the area filled back up and by late summer it was covered with lilies.

You are also correct that it acts like a sponge and will not be pleasant to walk on when swimming. The nutrients that are built up in the muck will also contribute greatly to a weed/algae problem.

I don't know how much you can get away with since NF&W is writing the checks.


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As for the last question, the more organic matter that falls into the pond, the quicker that the muck will build back up.


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
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Though I have limited experience, I'd be amazed if the lily pads were killed without other actons. What's the acreage and average depth of your pond?

When I was digging out my newly acquired pond, I found dormant, yet still viable tubers in seriously dry dirt...just waiting for the water level to rise. As for muck, even in our Texas drought conditions, I found the muck to hold enough water after our infrequent rains that the lilies would leaf out soon afterward.

Many members have posted on various herbicides they have experience with, and I'm sure you'll get their sage advice here.

I love the foliage of the trees in the background of your picture. One of these days I want to visit the Northeast in the Fall.


Last edited by Mobilus; 10/04/13 11:39 AM. Reason: sp
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The muck will break down somewhat, since air can get to it. But it won't be a big difference. I also think that if you dig a spot deeper for swimming, the muck will tend to slide into and fill up that deeper spot in no time once there is water in it again.

Yes, the lilies will come back. I dried mine up for three years and those left came back.

Can you put additional time and money into it besides the help your getting?

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Thanks guys for the information. I was told that the Lilly's would come back but it would take years to cause the problem I was having. The pond in the spring should fill to a depth of around 4 ft and around 15 ft in the hole it is around 2 acres in size. I do have time on the permit as it is good for 5 yrs. I myself would like to have a dozer go through and scrape the muck out once it is dry and push it up over the banks. I could also have it spread in the fields if need be. I am not sure as what I am expecting in the end but any thing has to be better than it has been for the last few yrs. When we bought the place 20 yrs ago there wasn't a Lilly or Cattail to be seen. I am sure I will be seeing NW&F out here a few times over the next years, I will get a feel for how they think the muck will do and to see if they would take issue with me scraping it off. I guess time will tell.
If there is a problem does the enzymes work for reducing the muck?

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If you can scrape the muck out before it fills up, you will be way ahead of the game/curve. Enzymes/bacteria isn't a magic bullet. Figure on reducing the muck at the rate that it built up.

With all the lilies in there, it will be an even slower process because of all the organic matter that they will add to the pond every year.

If you let it fill back up without removing the muck, even after 2 years, I'd wager that the areas where you didn't remove the muck will be just as thick with lilies the first year, no later than year 2.


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First I want to say welcome to PB.

Is there a spring or a lot of pasture run off into the pond? Will the state regulators(NF&W service)let you do what you want, as well as help do whatever they are willing to do? IMHO, If you drain a Lilly filled mud hole of a little water and then,let it dry, fill the same area back up with water you will have the same results, if you get my drift.

That said you have a beautiful place there and from just a few pics, the potential for a fantastic pond, but not at 4 feet deep pond with a foot or more of muck in the bottom. IMHO

From what I see, if you have the equipment,time, resources and or money, the choices are endless to what you can do. It may be a little deceiving because no one knows whats under the muck, but if the area is not real sandy and you have access to a lot of good clay,you could do a lot. I would see if the NF&W would run you some core samples, around in the pond bottom, to check for rock,springs,sandy areas etc. and you would have a better idea of where to go from there.

I do agree with everyone here, that you will really not get much pond improvement without at least pulling out the muck, put it where it will not reenter the pond basin and then try to prevent the situation(s) that caused the current pond issues.

Deeper water, in MI where you are(if the Geology will allow) would likely help on fish survival.

Good thing is you have two years to do a lot of "digging" here on PB and search the archives to find what kind of pond you want and then take the steps to that goal, if you have the needed resources.

Hope you have even better luck making it all happen and post us pictures of your continued journey, if and when you can.

Last edited by mpc; 10/06/13 06:57 PM. Reason: spelling correction

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