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Well my testing kit should be in today. My question is will it work on green water?
My fish that are in there seem to be ok now and I just added some Tilapia yesterday as that was the only time I could get them and they were much smaller than the ones from last year.
I need to add my heater for the next few days as we had a nice cool down but I want my fish to grow as quick as possible since we are getting a later start this year.
Still using the old homemade filter that came with my tank as I have used the last two years but really need to upgrade it and add plants.
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[quote=esshup]I recently purchased a 50# bag of stock salt at Tractor Supply. <$5.00 for 50#. It seemed to work well for mixing in the water to transport fish. But I realize that not everyone will need that volume of salt. A couple 1200 gallon tanks will go thru it like candy. Depends on how much salt you want to add. If I'm not doing aquaponics a 0.2 percent (2ppt) solution doesn't take much salt at all to keep it at 0.2 percent. I am changing the way of dosing salt. Originally, I was going to premix in a tank of water, then take salinity measurements and all that stuff. Another mixing tank will also take up room, then pumps, metering devices, conductivity sensors and all that other stuff. I just add salt when i do a water change. In my small systems a half a container of Morton salt keeps the 500 gallon system right at 0.2 percent. Gravimetric with dry seems to be an easier way, at least for me. And it would all be overhead, so no floor space required. I can measure the water volume in the system within 1/2 gallon, worst case, so make up water and dry dosing should be quite a bit easier.
Just thinking out loud here. Yes and making it more complicated than it has to be. You brainiac engineers crack me up. Yes that's a compliment! Like I said I'm a keep it simple stupid guy cause I'm stupid.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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I've always used Morton's kosher salt when transporting. I've not seen any issues.
As for using salt in a system with vegetables -- I believe that would not be going for the veggies. I think it would kill quite a few different kinds of plants. Yes, salt and plants are not a good combination.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Don't want to use that with fish either! Yeah supposed to turn to cyanide in the presence of sunlight. (Yellow Prussiate of Soda)
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/03/13 09:24 AM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Well my testing kit should be in today. My question is will it work on green water?
My fish that are in there seem to be ok now and I just added some Tilapia yesterday as that was the only time I could get them and they were much smaller than the ones from last year.
I need to add my heater for the next few days as we had a nice cool down but I want my fish to grow as quick as possible since we are getting a later start this year.
Still using the old homemade filter that came with my tank as I have used the last two years but really need to upgrade it and add plants. What testing kit did you get? If it's the API master test kit I don't see why it won't work. Keep in mind that your green water is a good thing as long as you have aeration at night. The phytoplankton consumes ammonia.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/03/13 09:27 AM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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I bought the API kit you recommended. I just was not sure if the results would be the same or if I should look for a different color when testing.
I currently have my pump running nonstop through bio-balls and then out like a fountain as I have in the past. I plan to hook up my air tonight as I have to find my air hose.
Should I only run the air only at night or 24/7.
I figure the fish that are in the tank will filter out some of the green as well so it may be good all around as long as my nutrient loads are ok.
The water is cooler than I like so the tilapia are pretty slow, and that may also cause some issues with my bacteria as well so I may unfortunately may have to plug in my heater to get up in the 80's.
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I'd run the air 24/7 if it's not costly but I'm not sure what your system looks like. My air moves solids to a center drain besides aerating the tank. I also use air to move my moving bed media.
I hear you on low water temps and tilapia. I picked a bad year to raise tilapia outside for the first time. I'm lucky to get water temps above the lower 70's and I don't want to crank up a heater in July!
I will tell you one thing: Tilapia are messy compared to the bluegill and yellow perch I've been raising in my RAS'. Lots of fecal casts!
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Yes and making it more complicated than it has to be. You brainiac engineers crack me up. Yes that's a compliment! Like I said I'm a keep it simple stupid guy cause I'm stupid. Don't be so modest Cecil, we "ALL" learn a great deal from you, and by no stretch of the imagination, are you stupid! (except when you argue with Bill about air in extruded pellets ) Keeping it simple is the best way go! I just like playing with this stuff because I can. Heck, you should have been here when I cracked the Ultrasonic Level Sensor out of the box. Got it calibrated, and noticed my toes moving. Directed said sensor at my right foot and commenced to measure toe movement We all have hobbies of sorts. Most like to fish, so that is a given. Some play golf, others do crafts, and the list goes on... Me, I like to bounce ultrasonic pulses off my big toe
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Yes and making it more complicated than it has to be. You brainiac engineers crack me up. Yes that's a compliment! Like I said I'm a keep it simple stupid guy cause I'm stupid. Don't be so modest Cecil, we "ALL" learn a great deal from you, and by no stretch of the imagination, are you stupid! (except when you argue with Bill about air in extruded pellets ) Keeping it simple is the best way go! I just like playing with this stuff because I can. Heck, you should have been here when I cracked the Ultrasonic Level Sensor out of the box. Got it calibrated, and noticed my toes moving. Directed said sensor at my right foot and commenced to measure toe movement We all have hobbies of sorts. Most like to fish, so that is a given. Some play golf, others do crafts, and the list goes on... Me, I like to bounce ultrasonic pulses off my big toe You got that right. If we all had the same interests it would be a boring competitive world. My problem is i keep pushing up against my limitations!
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Ok tested my water and it appears that my Nitrite and Nitrate are at or near 0. My ammonia on the other hand seems really high around just under 8.
What recommendations do you have to work with the water issues I am having?
Would adding any plants either directly to the tank or some vegies etc. in a grow bed help at all?
Please let me know.
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change out at least 25% of your water, once as soon as possible, and again later today.. ammonia that high will inhibit the cycling process
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change out at least 25% of your water, once as soon as possible, and again later today.. ammonia that high will inhibit the cycling process I would go even higher with a 50 percent water change.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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yeah, i was thinking at least a 50% change in a day, but i don't like to do it all at once..
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Sounds like the bacteria in the filter has a long ways to go to catch up........
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Ok tested my water and it appears that my Nitrite and Nitrate are at or near 0. My ammonia on the other hand seems really high around just under 8.
What recommendations do you have to work with the water issues I am having?
Would adding any plants either directly to the tank or some vegies etc. in a grow bed help at all?
Please let me know.
Did your nitrites appear, go up, and then go back to zero? Or are you still waiting for them to go up along with the nitrates? Plants will help but you need to get your biofilter completely cycled so any ammonia produced is quickly oxidized. Are your fish still alive at 8 ppm Ammonia or did you switch to fishless cycling?
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/15/13 02:40 PM.
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I went ahead and changed out some water probably about 50-85%. It was so green I could not believe they were living in it. The fish did perk up and are feeding like crazy so I guess that helped. The water has been staying at arond 79-84 as well which I believe is pretty close to ideal for Tilapia.
I have only checked it once and both the Nitrites and Nitrates were 0. Now since the water is green and the ammonia test turns the water green as well I wonder if it could have made it appear darker?
I know I need to upgrade my filtration system as it is what I got with my tank and has to work too hard as a bio filter since it also picks up some solids as well. That is why I wanted to add some plants or figure out a way to add a mechanical type filter as well.
In the past I have always cleaned my bio balls when changing water/cleaning the tank since they get some full and my filter clogs up. I wonder if this is knocking off or killing too much of the bacteria? The issue I have though is if the bio balls are not cleaned the filter/fountain I have will backup and not work.
Thanks
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Can you set up a drum with wildlife netting and a siphon like in the book Small Scale Aquaculture, or is your pump somewhere else in the system? Then run your clarified water to your biofilter? VanGorder told me the clarifer cleans down to 60 microns and I believe it as my water stays gin clear even with the messy tilapia. That's as good as a much more expensive rotating drum filter! I see why your fish are still alive. They're tilapia. They can live in gasoline!
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/15/13 09:51 PM.
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There are Tilapia, Goldfish, and a few FHM left, not sure if any crawfish are left or not.
I would like to try the drum with netting but even as simple as it looks to make not sure I am handy enough to do it. Trying to get the pump in the right place would be the fun part.
Right now it is directly in my tank.
I am fighting green water this year much more than last year for sure. Not sure that is that big of a problem for the fish, but sure does not look pretty.
I know if the Tilapia spawn the fry will love the green water starting out.
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There are Tilapia, Goldfish, and a few FHM left, not sure if any crawfish are left or not. I would like to try the drum with netting but even as simple as it looks to make not sure I am handy enough to do it. Trying to get the pump in the right place would be the fun part.Right now it is directly in my tank. If I can do it anyone can! All you have to do is set the pump on top of the filter material in the drum and send that water to your biofilter. Then have you biofilter drop water back into the tank via gravity. You just need to build the siphon and put a drain in the bottom of the drum with a valve to drain the drum after you clean the netting and drain the remaining waste. It's really quite simple. I am fighting green water this year much more than last year for sure. Not sure that is that big of a problem for the fish, but sure does not look pretty. What's the problem with green water, at least as far as your fish? Green water creates oxygen and breaks down nitrites and nitrates. VanGorder's system in his book has green water. As long as you have some aeration at night you should be fine. Now if you're concerned with it competing for nitrates with your plants you might check out getting a UV clarifier. Funny thing. I have a system outside with tilapia now and have no green water or FA to speak of. I have the system minus the raft tank under a deck and a tarp to keep any water that percolates through the deck from ending up in the system, but that's it. I was sure I would have green water but don't.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/16/13 11:03 AM.
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This is vary similar to what I have now and may be able to modify it work like yours. Can you add more detailed pictures and setup info to this thread or PM me which ever you think is best.
I am getting ready to get some blocks like you have as well so let me about how many you have. I posted questions about them to make sure I was getting a good dear rather than just buying some new blocks.
I am curious to see how the water flows from your tank to the barrel and filter etc.
Looking forward to your additions to this thread.
Also you are working with male Tilapia as well correct? I was just curious if you had any spawn if not the case. Also what temp is your water and do you have issues keeping it warm since it is not in the sun?
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This is vary similar to what I have now and may be able to modify it work like yours. Can you add more detailed pictures and setup info to this thread or PM me which ever you think is best. I can but I'm pressed for time right now as far as posting pictures. I'll get back to this thread shortly. I am getting ready to get some blocks like you have as well so let me about how many you have. I posted questions about them to make sure I was getting a good dear rather than just buying some new blocks. I responded to your other thread. The new ones shouldn't be that expensive from one of the Building supply stores. You should be able to get them dirt cheap used. I am curious to see how the water flows from your tank to the barrel and filter etc. Easy. Water is pumped via a small mag drive pump from the top of the filter tank (clarifier) to the bottom of the biofilter tank (mbbr) moving bed bioreator. That tank is set higher than the fish tank so it just drops back in the fish tank via a pipe. However with the aquaponic raft tank the water goes first to the raft tank and then back to the fish tank. Looking forward to your additions to this thread.
Also you are working with male Tilapia as well correct? Yes, new species for me is tilapia in the outside tank. I was just curious if you had any spawn if not the case. Also what temp is your water and do you have issues keeping it warm since it is not in the sun? Mine are hybrids so they are mostly male and possibly no females. Not seeing any young in the tank. At first with the cool and wet weather it was staying on the cool side in the lower 70's but since then has increased due to the heat wave.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/16/13 10:06 PM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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A local garden center has the large water transport cubes with the metal cage around them for 25$ any one ever try to use them? I did not not get to stop and look closely at them? Gona stop by tomorrow . They look pretty big from the road.
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This is vary similar to what I have now and may be able to modify it work like yours. Can you add more detailed pictures and setup info to this thread or PM me which ever you think is best.
White tank on left of picture. That's the clarifier tank that strains out the suspended solids Very simple. Packed with sections of Wildlife netting with a filter pad or two on top. A siphon like this pulls in water from the fish tank to the bottom of the filter material while water is being pulled up through the filter material by a small pump that rests on top of the filter material. That water is pushed to the bottom of the biofilter drum by that pump. There is a detachable section the clarifer tank side to be able to reach down and cap it temporarily when doing a water change. Has a bottom drain in the bottom center of the drum that is simply a 3 inch shower drain that has the grating cut out that is glued into a piece of 3 inch PVC. This is pushed through the Uniseal to create the drain. You do need to cut a washer out of some kind of plastic to keep the drain lip from pushing through the Uniseal. Here's the shower drain without the grating cut out. Note the white overlap outside of it on Uniseal. This is the washer I cut out of a plastic wall covering to keep the drain from sliding through. The lip on the drain just isn't wide enough. This photo shows better that the lip is not wide enough: Length of the PVC from the drain down is not important as long as you have enough clearance under the tank for it to clear the ground once you attach your elbow and another length of PVC. To the end of that is the necessary coupler to glue in a fitting for your hose barb. Then some type of hose is added to to act as your drain. A ball valve is added in line in the hose to release water when you do a water change. For fingerlings I need smaller openings so I use this riser fitting. Both drains I got at Menards. The riser fitting comes in several sizes. Here's the pump resting on top of the filter material and the water line going to the bottom of the biofilter tank. The water than overflows here into the fish tank. That is because the top of the drum is higher than the fish tank. Note the elbows to tangentially direct the water against the tank wall to create centripedal flow (teacup effect). Keep in mind the system pictured outside is set so high due to the raised garden next to it that gets waste water being already 15 inches off the ground. I wanted to gravity flow the waste water right to the garden by opening a valve. I'll post some pics with the raft tank installed tomorrow. Here's a side view of the drain again complete with the diffuser that is mounted on top. This is totally separate of the clarifier drain and tank. I once had them together. Changed it as this allows me to purge solids from the center drain anytime I want but pulling the gate valve. BTW my furry R2D2 has lost some weight since the photo.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/19/13 04:19 PM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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A local garden center has the large water transport cubes with the metal cage around them for 25$ any one ever try to use them? I did not not get to stop and look closely at them? Gona stop by tomorrow . They look pretty big from the road. They are used very commonly in aquaponics. The name for them escapes me at the moment. As long as they haven't had any harmful chemicals stored in them they can be used. I personally don't find them very attractive and prefer circular tanks due to how easy it is to remove solids. Just me of course.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/18/13 10:49 PM.
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A local garden center has the large water transport cubes with the metal cage around them for 25$ any one ever try to use them? I did not not get to stop and look closely at them? Gona stop by tomorrow . They look pretty big from the road. They are used very commonly in aquaponics. The name for them escapes me at the moment. As long as they haven't had any harmful chemicals stored in them they can be used. I personally don't find them very attractive and prefer circular tanks due to how easy it is to remove solids. Just me of course. IBC totes?
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