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Over the next week or so i will take you through several iterations of aquaponics designs that i built. Due to moving every couple of years I was able to redesign and rebuild my system several times over. I'll talk about the pluses and minuses of each system and eventually we will end up with my current system and the very large future system that I am currently building.

Unfortunately for this topic, some of these old pictures focused more on the plant growth than the fish. Like most people new to aquaonics, I started with tilapia because everyone seems to reference tilapia in aquaponics. And in fact they are great for a lot of reasons. They are very hardy, disease resistant, fast growers, tolerant of crowding, tolerant of poor water conditions and omnivore (will eat anything). A little known fact is that tilapia also have a fair amount of resistance to low levels of chlorine. Unfortunately their main weakness is temperature and they do not survive year round in an outdoor aquaponics system in north texas. Of all of the conditions mentioned, temperature is by far the most difficult and expensive to control.

My first system was indoor in an apartment. I do not recommend this to anyone. I had 100 gallon fish tank and plumbing sometimes leaks and failures do happen, heh. Also, it was difficult to keep the humidity down and mildew started to become a problem towards the end.

System 1, (small) indoor aquaponics.


It is when you start paying for 1kw/hr power and you are still barely providing enough light for plant growth that you start to truly awe at the magnificent power of the sun.


Mozambique tilapia. I thought i needed sand in the bottom of the tank to get them to build nests and reproduce but this was wrong. Not only will they breed on a plastic/rubber bottom (prolifically) substrate in the fish tank is a nono for aquaponics and RAS in general. It's a place for where solids could get trapped and breakdown aenarobically. Aenarobic zones would cause methane which is toxic to plants and fish. The chicken wire was necessary to keep jumpers from reverse drowning. Jumping seemed to mostly be related to aggression and territory. Lets just say there was not enough territory to go around. Jumping could also happen if water conditions get very poor.


Closer look at basil. There is parsly and cilantro on the far left and far right. They each have an infection of aphids. Spider mites... which are very difficult to deal with indoors and in a way that is safe for both food plants and fish.


Major plant nutrients are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. (NPK). Aquaponics is high in Nitrates (N) which is primarily absorbed during vegetative (green) growth and "P" and "K" are absorbed more in flowering or fruiting phases.


My lights are very blue spectrum running 16 hour days. Room temp is usually from 75-80 which simulate moderate june days. This is great for vegetative growth and jalapeno peppers flourished. (I did have to manually pollinate the blooms to get peppers to make using a very soft bristled makeup brush i got form cvs.) My roma tomato plants grew long and lanky and never bloomed. People do grow tomatoes in aquaponics even with the relatively low P-K. Some use addatives, some just limit the amount of P-K intense plants in the system. I think my primary problem was a poor choice of tomato variety for my environment and secondly a lack of orange spectrum (fall) light to trigger blooming.


Summary,
This was the last time i tried an indoor system (excluding a garage tilapia wintering system that i will cover in a later post). I do not recommend it. Costs of lights alone are prohibitive for indoor growth. You have to be prepared to change light duration and spectrum to provide "seasonal" conditions for some types of plants to flourish. Green non-blooming plants like herbs, lettuces and cabbages do very well.

Brian

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bcotton, WOW! thats amazing!!! That is one great system. Just looking at the plumbing (pvc) work is awesome. How do you even move around in there? Looks like a pretty tight area.

Great pictures also.....

One question... A friend told me he uses lava rock in his aquaponic system instead of the clay "marbles" (because its a lot cheaper). Have you ever tried the lava rock?

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hang_loose,

I have never tried lava rock but people who's opinion i trust say it works fine. There is some lava rock to not use. IIRC the "red" stuff will dissolve into clay over time but the "black" stuff is ok. Also stay away from slag and anything made from metals, obviously. Lava rock is good in that is is relatively cheap, porous and light. Negatives would be the sharp edges which prohibit working in the media with your hands. Its usually a larger media so it's difficult to sow seed directly in the bed and it's difficult to move plants around without damaging the roots. I often sow a lot of seeds in a small area and then space them out when they start getting bigger.

In that indoor system i was using the very expensive expanded clay "hydroton" because i did not know any better. It's porous, light and PH nuetral. Hydroton is relatively large. If you are lazy like me and sow seeds directly into the grow beds you will have a low sprout rate... roughly 20% in my experience. But the main negative is cost because it is very expensive. ~$30-35 per 50L

You will see in future systems where i change to expanded shale which is ~$60 per CY in the dallas area. Expanded shale is probably cheaper than even lava rock in most cases. It's kilned like expanded clay and "popcorns" into a less dense porous rock but it is a little heavier/denser than expanded clay but much lighter than river rock. While they could theortically make expanded shale in any diameter, I have only seen it in smaller "pea sized " diameter. This small diameter can cause it to be susceptible to clogging where fish solids enter the grow bed and are unable to seep into the grow bed to get broken down. It just kind of builds up and puddles on the top.

Supposedly expanded shale is ph nuetral but in my experience it is not. (maybe it's because shale layers are next to limestone layers in the ground and there is leaching? i dont really know). The expanded shale i have worked with buffers my systam at about 7.8 PH. The 7.8 PH is considered "too high" for plants and very good fish but in practice I find it works fine for both if you are mindful to do things to keep micro nutrient levels like iron at good levels.


The smaller diameter has a positive aspect in that I am able to sow seeds directly into the media and get a good (~80%+) sprout rate.


The non-nuetral PH also has a positive aspect because it buffers the system at a specific ph and never budges. The PH of most aquaponic systems go down slowly over time because the nitrification process (process where bacteria break down ammonia [produced by fish] into nitrite and then nitrate.) I also catch rain water [which usually in the low 6's of PH], but my system's PH never changes.



brian

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Neat, really neat


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

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Fantastic. Thanks for starting this thread.


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Bcotton, thank you for sharing! Perfect timing as I am in the process of gathering parts to set up my first aquaponics system in my outdoor sunroom. So far I have my 300 gallon "Rubbermaid" water tank and 3 24x36x8 grow pots.At this point I plan on using the "raft" system or a mix of raft and media based. As for fish I am still undecided but am thinking Blue Talapia or HSB.

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Rick,

You need surface area/filtration for the bacteria to break down the ammonia. If you are not using media in your grow beds, you will need some sort of filter. There are many options, but i have no experience with filters and wouldnt know what to recommend.

Doing some media and some raft grow beds is a fine option and works well. However, your fish capacity is going to be based on how much filtration you have. The water is just the blood in the vessels of the system. Either way, you want your fish tank -> filtration -> then Deep water culture (fancy name for rafts). If tilapia/fry make it into your rafts they will eat the roots and kill your plants.

You may be able to grow blue talapia to plate size in one season, but if not, you will need a plan for the wintering because they are mortal below water temperatures ~45 degrees. Blue and nile tilapia require a permit to poses in Texas. I am only able to work with mozambique which [theoretically] die at 55 degrees. I will post a system a day. the 5th system is my current one and you will see that i still use some tilapia but i have moved 95% to native fish that I can leave outdoors year round. Tilapia can filter feed and help control algae/moss, but I try to discourage people from using them in non tropical zones in outdoor aquaponics systems. There's really no good reason to not use native fish that you can stock year round.

Your bacteria are a living part of your aquaponics ecosystem. If you harvest, move or lose all of your fish during the winter the food for the bacteria will stop and all of the bacteria will die. The next summer you are going to have to start over from square 1 and re-"cycle" your system.

Another viable stocking plan that may interest you is to buy a little larger than fingerling tilapia, growing them for 6 summer months then do a full harvest and replacing them with trout for the 6 colder months. It is kind of a temperate crop rotation. You will need to start with larger fish which are a little more expensive but depending on your goals it may be a more desirable option for you.

I actually have some HSB in my current system. You will need to be more concerned about good water quality and high disolved oxygen but they should be able to take the temperature swings. They are a really neat fish. They seem very smart and they have never stop swimming (as far as i can tell). They swim in a pack/sphere that reminds me of the dog fights in movie top gun. They move as a unit around the tank. I cant seem to get them to eat pellets at the surface while i am standing there but if i walk across the patio and come back... all of the pellets are gone. These are new fingerlings that i have only had for a couple of week, so i have not gone a full year with 100 degree summers and some freezes to say for certain how they will do year round. However, i expect them to be fine.

If my blue gill ever spawn, I will move them back outside and move the fry to a grow out tank. Then i will bring 3 or 4 HSB into my 100g living room aquarium so I can watch and learn their behavior better.


brian








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That is very cool stuff. Just awesome!

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Tomatoes need a 'nighttime' temperature below 70 degrees to bloom. We had a similar problem in our garden last summer.

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I love this stuff!! I like seeing the plant end of the aquaponics since all I know well is the fish side, having supplied 1000's with seed stock of Blue Tilapia.



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ok, ready for next system, year 2?

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Awesome
Looking forward to more info

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Brian, Thanks again for your help. This is all new to me but I am really fired up about getting started. I received my copy of Sylvia Bernsteins' Aquaponic Gardening from Amazon today and will no doubt get lost in it later tonight.I like your idea about rotating trout into the system over the Winter.I do have a couple of ponds here on the property that will somehow factor in with regards to fish/fishing. HSB seem to good to be true! I am looking for some but there aren't any sources close by. Got me thinking about setting up a small indoor pond system in my shop to raise some. I could stock my own ponds and provide some to others who may be interested in HSB in the local area! Plus I here they are delicious!

Rick

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Originally Posted By: Rick Elrod
As for fish I am still undecided but am thinking Blue Talapia or HSB.


Hey Rick,

Legally using tilapia in Virginia is a little bit of a hassle. Technically, you have to fill out two forms, pay $10, and be inspected before you can raise the tilapia. The inspection is to ensure that there is no possible way that your tilapia can escape into the wild. Here is one of several good websites with information: Tilapia Farming at Home -- Legal Issues. I believe you will be able to legally do it, but probably not this season.

There is also don't ask, don't tell -- if you find a source of tilapia who will sell to you.

I know I'm really sounding like Debbie Downer, but I think you may run into different issues with HSB. From my experience, they are rather finicky, and are especially susceptible to less than perfect water. I'm not sure how well they would do if your DO drops during some hot weather, or your ammonia gets just a little out of range. However, if you should decide to grow out some HSB, I'll be one of the first people at your door to get some for my ponds each season. Our area just doesn't have a consistent and reasonable supplier of HSB -- yet, there are a lot of us who really want them.

I started populating our IBC tank system yesterday with "sacrificial" fish and a few plants. I put in about a dozen fatheads and four 3-4 inch bluegill. They are the "canaries in the coalmine." When they can make it, or their replacements can make it, then I'll add a number of hybrid bluegill. The tank holds 275 gallons of water, so I'll start this season with 25-30 HBG after we have completed the first "cycle." That is probably a few weeks off. That should represents about 1 lb., of fish per 10 gallons of water by the end of the growing season.

Using the creek water probably helped start the system, but it will still take a while. I did put in a shovel full of fresh chicken manure before we started the system. After running the system without fish or plants for 36 hours, the pH was right at 7.0. However, because of our cold weather, the water was only at 58 degrees. The ammonia level was barely perceptible. Nitrites and nitrates were undetectable.

I put in three tomato plants, two pepper plants, and I sprinkled in some black-seeded Simpson lettuce seeds. In a day or two, I'll add some liquid seaweed to help the plants, and hopefully not hurt the fish. I may add some cucumber and squash plants at that time, depending on how the other plants look.

Tomorrow and Thursday are supposed to be up in the 90s. The tank is wrapped in black plastic, so the sun should warm it pretty well in the next couple of days. The weekend is supposed to be pretty warm too. So, we'll see what transforms.

Keep us informed.


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Rick, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but HSB are also illegal in VA. They are treated pretty much the same way tilapia are...

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bcotton, are you adding any other bacteria (as in powdered and what kind) to your hydro system? And how long do you let the bacteria "set up"? I know bacteria can live a long time even on dried gravel.

Great set up you have!!!

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I really appreciate what you are doing, great pictures and information.


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jludwig,
That is a good point and is probably a major contributing factor if not the primary factor to the tomatoes not blooming.


hang_loose ,
no I don’t add anything to start the bacteria. Trace amounts of the bacteria exists everywhere. Once food (ammonia, and then nitrites) show up, the bacteria feed and reproduce. if i have an existing system and i am starting a new one, i will seed the new system with some established substrate. It does quicken the cycle time but is not necessary.

The following is a rambling diatribe on microbiology by someone who has no qualifications to speak on microbiology,
Bacteria are suspended in the water but in order to grow dense colonies capable of supporting dense fish, they need surface area… i.e. substrate. There’s actually two types of bacteria that are required. One type breaks down ammonia -> nitrites and the other breaks down nitrites -> nitrates. The ammonia will peak several days before the nitrites peak. This period of high ammonia and nitrites while the bacteria establish is what we refer to as a “cycle”.
Random thoughts,
1) Ammonia is produced by the gills when the fish breathe.
2) Ammonia spikes when the fish are fed. feed lighly while cycling is taking place.
3) Ammonia is toxic to fish at very low concentrations. The easiest way to “treat” high ammonia is to lower the amount of ammonia in the system. At .5-1ppm I stop feeding the fish. Between 1-2ppm I continue to not feed the fish and I do ~40% water changes to bring down below 1.
4) Nitrites are toxic to fish at very low concentrations. Nitrites inhibits the fish’s ability to move oxygen in their blood. It’s is/causes “brown blood disease”. PPM can be lowered with water changes. Salting the water to bring salinity to 3ppt can also help treat the fish's condition.
5) Nitrates are toxic to fish in very high concentrations. Fortunately, plants absorb nitrates as food. If you have high nitrates, add more plants.
6) Because the bacteria and plants maintain water quality , no water discharge is necessary.
7) Water needs to be added periodically to make up for water lost through evaporation and transpiration (plant sweat)
8) In a typical week I lose 5-10%. On hot 100+ degree months like july and august I lose 15%-20% water per week.

I'm working on the next system update, now.


Brian

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System 2, Outdoors in north texas.

The apartment design is the simplest of designs. A pump in the fish tank pumping to the grow beds which drained back into the fish tank.


The major draw back to this design is that if your plumbing fails, your fish tank can go empty.

A minor draw back to this design is that the water fluctuates in the fish tank. Some people say that this is unhealthy or stresses the fish but I have seen no practical evidence to support that claim [as long as the fish tank never gets too low or goes empty.] I often use my sumps as a nursery tank for sick or weakend fish and for fry grow out. I have noticed no significant effects of the water level changes in growth, health or behavior.

It is not really a design flaw, but the grow trays are only 6 inches deep and i wanted deeper grow beds to support taller plants. Six inch grow trays worked find for greens and herbs but tall plants like peppers and tomatoes want to fall over because there's not enough base support.


This second design is at a rental house and I am working with a space that i cannot modify so the space affected the system design considerably.


To protect against plumbing failure, the main difference in design is the addition of the sump tank. This is a modified CHOP (constant height one pump) design or some refer to as a CHIFT/PIST (constant hieght in fish tank/pump in sump).

To move my system/fish without deaths, I bought a new 300 gallon fish tank which I filled with water at the new property. I treated the ~300 gallons tap water water with 3000mg of aesorbic acid(vitamin C) to destroy the chloramines and let it sit with an aerator overnight. I was then able to move the tilapia in 5 gallon buckets to the new tank. Then over the next couple of days I moved the rest of the system



The fish tank stays constant height and overflows into the sump. The pump is in the sump and pumps to all of the grow beds which drain back into the fish tank.





I am looking ahead to north texas winters and I realize that I will not be able to keep the tilapia through a second winter(first was in the apt). So in anticipation. A few weeks after i got moved, I took a trip to buffalo tx to get 36 channel cats and 24 bluegill fingerlings. I have plenty of filtration for this fish load right now, but as the fish grow I am going to need more filtration so i get started building some larger 4'x8'x9,5" grow beds using wood and pond liner.


An architectural abomination, i am embarassed to post this.



Each new grow bed is built for ~100$ which is probably one third of what i paid for the hydroponic grow trays I used before The wood beds covers about the same square footage but due to increase depth provide more filtration (cubic feet).

Each new grow bed is about 150gallons or .75 CY. I priced hydroton for this volume and it came out to roughly 1400$. I decided to buy 1.5 Cy of expanded shale which cost a hair over $100. No brainer, right? I've already talked about pluses and minuses of expanded shale in a previous update. I should also note that smaller diameter also means more surface area for bacteria, which is another minor positive. I chose expanded shale over pea gravel and river rock primarily because it is lighter.





I moved to this house in march, The growth was decimated by insect and caterpillars in april and into may. Then in mid-late may predator insects and birds found the smorgasbord and the plants were recovered by mid june when these pictures were taken. My romain lettuce were slighly out of season and bolted but everything was looking healthy and green. The tomato plants are wide/full plants and producing some small tomatoes. The pepper plants were still growing/establishing and I think you can see some squash plants in one of the pictures going nuts.


Brian

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Brian, I'm loving this thread! Thanks for posting failures along with the successes. This is very interesting stuff.


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Would fatheads, in lieu of other fish, give you enough fertilizer? Those things don't worry much about finicky water.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

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FireIsHot,
Thanks

Dave Davidson1,
Theoretically yes. I have never run a system only off of minnows but I have started systems with minnows and recommend that approach. I dont see why not.


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Brian, this is really neat. Is there anyway that you could do this and make money or is it just a good hobby.


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Brian, very interesting. I'm trying something (very small scale) using solar. It doesn't pump full time, but has worked before.


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BC- Thanks for all the details and pic's of your project. Keep it coming sir! This thread has been very educational and please keep posting your failures (aka learned lessons) as well as the successes.

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