Hi Everyone -- after being to this site and reading some very useful tips and suggestions, finally joining myself to ensure my brand new pond is the best it can be. Here is what I have, what I have done -- any suggestions on how I can do better would be appreciated! A little about me: I live on 100 acres of Canadian wilderness, we are off-grid, grow our own organic veggies and make our own solar power. Last week we dug a spring fed pond 12' deep in some parts (bedrock in the way in others) and it will be about 1/2 acre once full to the brim. The water is a green-gray color, wouldn't exactly call it muddy but definitely not clear. Likely as the pond was just dug 9 days ago. I have bought all kinds of native grass seeds to plant around the pond once the snow has melted and the ground thawed, varieties that are native to this land but also establish deep, solid root structures to prevent erosion. I will also be buying some native non-invasive marsh plants to sow into the shallow areas of the pond. Even though our soil is quite sandy, there seems to be enough clay in it to prevent pond drainage (tested: soil clumped in my hand held together in a ball nicely, so fingers crossed it will remain so). We are not planning on having large fish as it gets very cold here and I don't think the small area that is 12' deep will be enough area for the fish to survive, plus we are only 1/2 mile away from an awesome fishing lake. Would it make sense to have small fish in it to keep it clean? What other clearing methods should I apply? Aeration? It will ideally be a swim pond, then also catching overflow to irrigate our vegetable and flower gardens. Here are photos, one from last week right after the dig (that's me in the pic, I am 5'4" for reference), one taken yesterday of the pond half-full. Looking forward to hearing from you all!
Welcome to a great pond management forum. We are here to help you have a good pond based on what your goals are for your pond. If you have a way to keep 10-20% of the snow off the ice fish will live in there all winter. After the snow blanket lies on the ice for 3 weeks oxygen loss becomes noticable. For fish I would consider trout and or yellow perch, and a few predators such as walleye, smallmouth bass. Pumpkinseed are another option as a forage panfish.
If you are interested in just small fish (minnows) for the pond consider going to a nearby creek or the fishing lake and catch some minnows with a trap or drop net baited with bread. the minnows that you catch in the lake should spawn in the pond. If you take close up pictures of the minnows, post pics, & store minnows in a outside tank-tub-barrel, we can tell you what they are before you put them in the pond.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 04/03/1311:27 AM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
Welcome! I am surprised to see so little snow on the ground there, down here in NY, we still have a bit though the March sun is giving it a pounding.
Looks like a beautiful spot! I don't think you will have much trouble with water where you are if it is filling that fast and the soils are what it sounds like. It is unfortunate it gets so cold for so long with keeping fish in the pond, but if you are doing ornamental fish, I say drop some goldfish in there. Those things can handle a beating, even to the point of not being able to remove them when you want to.
Your water will clear up, mine took the better part of a few months after filling to go clear. Do note that goldfish do not help water clarity, they will stir the bottom looking for food.
Edit: Oh, and what Bill said. Helps if I refresh the page.
Thanks Liquidsquid! We have a foot of snow still in some areas, but it is melting quickly. The pond filled 5 feet in 8 days, which is great, so we're hoping it will be full to the brim by end of the month once the thaw slows. Based on what you said I won't be putting goldfish as we'll be using the pond mainly for swimming and crop irrigation when there is overflow. I like Bill's minnow idea and will post pics if we go that route. Thanks!!
Cristina, Forest Dweller
"The greatest wonder is that we can see these trees and not wonder more." -- Emerson
Yikes those banks are pretty steep! Even with clay soil you're going to see some serious collapsing of your bank edges. Not trying to be negative but I've been there done that and still dealing with in with two of my 1/10th acre ponds. I've had to add some serious amount of stone to keep the banks from collapsing any more than they are.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
Sounds like you like the off the grid raise your own food type life style. Very awesome! Beautiful place you have there...
Certainly no reason to not at least stock some fish in there. We can certainly help you ID any small "minnow type" fish you catch locally and tell you if they would suitable pond fish. If you want larger fish, there are options and some could certainly provide you with a food source and be easy maintenance.
Keeping the pond clean is relative and depends on what each means by "clean". From your pictures the sides are steep sloped and as some mentioned maybe too steep to keep from sloughing and tending to slide/settle into the pond belly. Consistancy of the clay banks will be a major factor on bank stability.
Back to clean. Since the sides are steep this will deter a lot of weed growth in the shallow water. But with clear water and visibilities of 5-8ft rooted weeds will grow all over the bottom because these areas will receive sunlight. YOu may have to resort to pond dye or herbicides to keep weeds to a minimum so you can swim. There are weed lake rakes and weed cutters (weed razor) for easier manual weed removal.
The trees along one side will deposit leaves into the pond. Leaves release their nutrients when they decay. Nutrients will grow problematic algae. Lots of dead undecayed leaves will cause black muck to accumulate on the pond bottom. Lots of trees leaves can cause the water to have perpetual brown stain - tannins. Aeration will help decay the tree leaves. Periodic bacterial additions with aeration can help speed the decay of leaves. With clean water, aeration, and dissolved oxygen at the bottom, the natural community of aquatic invertebrates will thrive, process and speed the decay of all organic materials on the pond bottom. Oxygen dissolved in water at or on the pond bottom leads to a clean pond. A few hardy hybrid flowering water lilies from a water garden store will help use nutrients so you will not have as many algae problems. Some beneficial shoreline emergernt plants will help stabalize the pond shoreline banks. IMO try to avoid cattails. Native blue water iris (Iris versicolor) is a good plant to use instead of cattails. They grow wild along many Canadian lakes-swamps.
Pond Plant Advice Homework From previous posts: From CJBS: There are a good number of marginal plants that will not take over your pond under most conditions and many are beneficial to wildlife as well. Species like arrow arum, pickeral weed, arrowhead, golden club, cardinal flower, dwarf cattail and a number of species of sedges are all species that look nice, shouldn't take over the edge of your pond and are fairly hardy to very hardy.
From Cody: Advice so far is sound. Non-rampant types of introduced plants will compete for food and space against the primary aquatic weed invaders/colonizers which are almost alawys very fast spreaders - rampant types. Proper plants in proper areas provide good habitat and help stabilize the shoreline and sediments. Rampant types grow and spread fast and end up becoming a nuisance quickly and then needing controlled only after a few years. Here are several links to other discussions here about beneficial plants. Ask about any questions after reading through the topics: http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=36543&fpart=1
And lastly from the Archives - Lily Pad topics. Water lilies growing out from shore into water 2-5ft deep will help reduce medium wave action. Lilies will not grow well in strong wind swept shorlines. http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=110943#Post110943 My Favorite shoreline plants. Water iris native and Louisiana, Yellow variety spreads too fast IMO by seeds. Sweet flag, regular and variegated, Spike rush Eleocharis numerous species up to 3 ft tall. I like the shorter species. Arrow head - Sagittaria several species Pickerel plant blue is most common Lizard tail Marsh marigold, Shorter bull rush and sedges Genera: Scirpus and Juncus. Avoid the tall (up to 6-8ft tall) aggressive soft stem bulrush for ponds.
Look for shorter growing natural plants in local lakes, marshes, and ponds. Many would survive transplanting into a pond setting. We can help with identification from your pictures before planting.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 04/03/1307:47 PM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
Sure hope my post wasn't seen as mean. I was just being honest from what I've personally experienced. Perhaps the photos make the slope look steeper than it is? Or it's my monitor as my monitor isn't quite right.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
Cecil, can you toss any pics up from your steep banked ponds for refrence?
The problem with steep banked ponds, is that if it's snowy/icy and the water level is down, even a bit, it's a PITA to get to and from the water, and can be downright dangerous if the ice was thin and someone slipped down the slope and broke thru the ice.
Thanks to everyone for your advice! Cecil -- totally respect your advice as I was having those same concerns about the steep banks! I'd say they are about 2-1 instead of 3-1, but only along half of the pond, the other half not see in the pics is 3-1. They are steep because the space is limited and we are surrounded by Canadian Shield bedrock, hence getting deep-rooting plants around the shorelines ASAP and covering them in burlap so they germinate quickly before the birds get to the seeds. I can't change the slopes now, so any other advice on keeping the banks from collapsing? Thanks Bill for the detailed advice on plants, we're certainly going to invest in quite a few varieties to keep the pond happy and aesthetically pleasing. Thanks to ALL for your help and advice!!
Cristina, Forest Dweller
"The greatest wonder is that we can see these trees and not wonder more." -- Emerson
Starting pond plants from seeds is slow, low percentage success of colonization at best. If you want rapid growth use transplants. Try it both ways are report back as to your success and advice for others. Stabilizing very steep banks is difficult. You may need to add rock, cobbles and/or broken concrete to the down wind areas that are the steepest and receive the most wind, wave action; similar to what they do at steep sided reservoirs. It is best to do this when the banks are not underwater.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 04/04/1309:33 AM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
Thanks so much, Bill -- we do have a number of boulders pulled out from the pond bed that we can use -- we'll get the backhoe in to lift them into place on the banks. Fortunately the pond is small enough and somewhat sheltered in a valley that wind/wave action will not be too much. How about concrete piers for a dock -- will they help stabilize the bank as well?
Cristina, Forest Dweller
"The greatest wonder is that we can see these trees and not wonder more." -- Emerson
Cecil, can you toss any pics up from your steep banked ponds for reference?
Here ya go.
This is one section of one of the 1/10th acre fry production ponds. The bank was initially steep but did grow grass. However over time it collapsed and became almost vertical. What happens is the freezing and thawing in the winter causes it to crumble. It's very high in clay. I messed up by having it dug so steeply.
This is the pond adjacent to it where too large of stone was placed which simply tumbled into the pond.
Here is a section where enough stone of the the right size was placed and should stay put. It's takes a lot of stone starting at the bottom of the pond.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 04/04/1308:45 PM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
Thanks so much for posting those pics, Cecil -- and for your valuable insight! Our contractor will be coming back in a week once the thaw is over to pack things down, do some more grading on the pond banks and put some boulders in as well for support. Here is the steepest of our banks (same one as in my original pic posting) but seen from the side so you can see the pitch.
Cristina, Forest Dweller
"The greatest wonder is that we can see these trees and not wonder more." -- Emerson
