Pond Boss Forums POND CONSTRUCTION Creating habitat 15% structure

So I'm sitting here looking at my ponds with 16"s of ice on them. I'm considering adding some structure out on the ice, and I'm thinking about why 15% structure is the rule I'm told. In any lake or pond the fish spend most of their time around structure. So I'm thing "If some is good, more is better". More bio-film, more food chain, more fish. So we want 85% just water without fish? The only justification I can think of is water quality as the open water will be wind driven and currents will result adding O2 and turning over the water. After all a Bass can live in an aquarium as long as the water quality is good. I have great respect for the people on this forum so I know there are reasons not to add to much structure. What say you fellow pond bosses?

<-----jealous.

How big is your pond woodster?

One of the reasons, just from an angling standpoint, if there is a TON of structure it's going to make it mighty difficult to find biters.

I guess technically I have one pond that's about 7 or 8 acres. Since a big chunk of it is two feet deep and cattails I say I have two ponds, one on each end of the cattails. One is about an acre the other about 2 1/4 acres. The whole system is fed by spring seeps and an artesian well. There is an area about 15 feet in diameter that's open water right now over the well, the rest is frozen over. I actually did measure 16"s of ice. And yes I am so jealous of you open water people!

Too much structure will cause a predation issue & this in turn will lead to pond balance issues down the road.

Balance would be my answer why not to "choke' a pond with structure.
I believe many professionals actually suggest 20%, I've evn read 25% a number of times. Variety of habitat....think about it. Open water is simply another type of habitat fish need to use at different times of the season.

I figure just like we enjoy time walking and exploring a forest, it's nice to get out in the open and run sometimes too.

It depends on what you think is structure and its purpose. The biggest structure is the pond bottom.

To much plant structure can cause several types of problems from predation/balance problems to water quality issues.

To much wood structure can cause water quality (DO) problems as it decays. Same for to much brush.

On the fishing end the structure is to concentrate fish. If you have to much structure that purpose will be lost.

Over time a serious excessive structure amounts can cause plasticity or adaptation problems in fish species.

There's difference in cover for the fish too. Finer pieces (less space between the branches) gives protection for YOY fish, but not larger fish. It's not only the amount of cover that you place in the pond, it's the type of cover, AND where it's placed in the pond.

Place it all in the deepest part of the pond, and you'll get the most use out of it during the winter, when the pond is frozen.

Place all of it in shallow water, and it won't be used at all during the winter - just the summer. Place it in very shallow water, and only little fish will utilize it.

Eric's and Scott's last 2 posts state clearly what I was trying to figure out how to say. A couple of things I would add is to know before you start what species you are targeting, why you are targeting them, and be prepared to adjust the locations if they don't produce results.

If your goal is forage protection, then structure needs to be denser as Scott said. If it is to add shade or "edges" for predator fish, then the structure can be more open. If it is to make a fishing spot more convenient, then the fish probably need to at least be moving through that area to begin with, or they may not find it and hold there unless a feeder is present.

I have a 10X50' area that has a good mix of porcupines and Christmas trees. I noticed that my CNBG were moving into that area before the feeder threw, then left when the food was all gone. It made sense to me to move all this structure and the feeder to the area they were vacating. It was only 150' away, but it should make it easier to catch those CNBG all day, and not just when the feeder was throwing.

This is all good information, thanks! Here's the twist, I want to add more structure to make it harder for Otters to get the fish. In my 50 plus years I have learned that shooting predators makes room for another predator. I'm not far from a river and Otters show up from time to time. All predators look for the easiest meal, a pond with little structure is easy pickings. Everything in nature is about balance, I'm looking to tip the balance more in favor of the fish. Otters are great fun to watch, anyone want one? I'll address one, put a stamp on it and mail it to you. Open with caution!

I'd consider killing/trapping the otters over ruining a pond.. Otter really love ponds that are chocked full of stunted fish that's what'd you'd end up with..

Hey Woodster - glad to have you back. Where the heck have you been since 2007? We need more Wisconsin brothers to tell us what unique issues they're facing and successes they're having! Welcome back!

Trap or shoot the otters.


See the structure archive and pick out items that will stab or are to thick for otters to go in.

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=92463#Post92463

Cribs stuffed full of thick stuff like xmas trees , brush etc will work as will pvc or siding items.





Cribs - http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=139612#Post139612

If you don't put too big of a hole in the pelt, I'll take them! I'll take them even with no holes. (fur prices are up)

Another member here has had very good luck keeping them out of his pond with a solar powered electric fence controller, and an electric fence all around his pond. I don't think it has to be very tall, a couple of wires near the ground should do it. Once they nose into a hot fence, I don't think they'll come back. They have solar powered ones that will power up to 30 miles of fencing......

I don't know how large your pond is, but if I had that problem, I'd be installing on that was about twice as strong (or more) than I needed. When you're there, it can be easily turned off so you or your family won't be zapped.