I just purchased an aeration system for my 2 acre pond and I'm in the process of building the system cabinet/housing. Ted at Cleanponds has been fantastic and I could call him but since I've bothered him enough up to this point I thought I'd post my question here.
I have a 1/3 hp 240v compressor and fan (also 240v) and as it's suggested I use a 2-pole 20A GFCI breaker rated for 240v with a standard 20A receptacle rated for 240v, could I install a 30A fused outdoor safety switch and then a 20A GFCI receptacle?
From the safety switch I will be running about 20' of wire (buried) to the receptacle in my cabinet.
I think I posted some pics for you in a prior thread but I'll try and answer some of your question with example from ours. Not quite sure the purpose of the safety switch since a breaker should perform the same function.
From my main breaker box which is the supply, we put in a double pole 100a breaker. Then from that box we ran about 300ft of buried service cable to a 100amp breaker box at the diffuser. This is the box on the side of the diffuser stand. Inside this box we placed a 20amp breaker for the pump. From there we wired to the inside of the box a GFCI outlet. However my pump is only 120v though. Also, note the waterproof outdoor receptacle with the GFCI.
During the process I actually ran wiring from the breaker box at the diffuser to a spot below the pond and placed a 240v hookup for a camper and another 120v power supply for the fun of it. Inside the breaker box at the diffuser there would be a double pole 30amp breaker for the camper hookup and another 20amp breaker for the 120v power supply when I finally hook them up. The breaker box had 6 open slots.
Big thing to keep in mind is that distance will cause voltage drop so make sure you size your wiring appropriately from your supply to the pump. If I'm not mistaken, we chose aluminum service cable because of cost but had to use 4/0 gauge I think to keep the voltage up. But, we also had a 300ft run. If your supply to pump is only 20ft voltage drop should not be an issue.
On the receptacle, make sure you size the wire to fit the receptacle. On the one we used you pushed the wire in then put the screw in so if its a 12ga receptacle and you use 10ga wire it may not fit to wire it.
Short answer: Yes, you can do a 30a fused safety switch and feed a 20amp but why? If your run is 20ft and you have a breaker box at the supply, I would put in a 20amp double pole breaker there and run to a GFCI outlet inside the box...
Thanks for the response! Isn't it nice having the power you need to run the RV outlet box and one for the fun of it? I did the same so I can keep the camper and boat plugged in 24/7.
Regarding my question, here's my reasoning: There is a utility pole near the pond (the 20') having raw power going to a 30A safety switch which runs a well pump. From the "raw power" coming into the existing safety switch for the well pump it would be much less expensive to tap into that "raw" power, add a second (fused) safety switch (easy on/off for the aeration system) and from there run my 20' to the system cabinet to a 20A GFCI outlet.
I would then have two safety switch boxes on the utility pole, one marked "fountain", one marked "aerator". The GFCI protection would then be in the system cabinet.
The want a small fortune for the 20A GFCI 2 pole breaker!
Thanks for the response! Isn't it nice having the power you need to run the RV outlet box and one for the fun of it? I did the same so I can keep the camper and boat plugged in 24/7.
Regarding my question, here's my reasoning: There is a utility pole near the pond (the 20') having raw power going to a 30A safety switch which runs a well pump. From the "raw power" coming into the existing safety switch for the well pump it would be much less expensive to tap into that "raw" power, add a second (fused) safety switch (easy on/off for the aeration system) and from there run my 20' to the system cabinet to a 20A GFCI outlet.
I would then have two safety switch boxes on the utility pole, one marked "fountain", one marked "aerator". The GFCI protection would then be in the system cabinet.
The want a small fortune for the 20A GFCI 2 pole breaker!
What do you mean by "Raw Power"? and "Utility Pole"?
It's an old farmstead on 80 acres. At some point they put up a utility pole/telephone pole and ran power from a pole near the house out to the pond area to run the well pump (and an outlet). I used "raw" because I believe it's unfused power (I'm guessing at least 60 or 100 Amp service). As I get closer to actually running power, I'll know more about whether it's fused power and how much is getting to the pole. But I'll likely be tapping into that for my aeration system.
From the little bit that I know about electricity, from the utility pole until the power hit the GFI, people wouldn't be protected in case of a short and could be electrocuted. From the GFI to the end of the circuit, yes.
Case in point:
The circuit that goes to my pump house is NOT GFI protected. The bottom of the pump house is about 5' below ground level. I put a infrared 1,000w space heater that is attached to a switch that turns on at 33°F and below. One spring, the snow melted, it rained, then it turned cold. Below freezing cold. The water quit in the house, and looking in the pump house there was 3' of water, with at least 2" of ice on top of it. The heater was completely submerged. As I started down the steps, I thought "I wonder if the circuit is tripped?" Back up the stairs and into the house I went to check the breaker box. Nope, it was still alive and kicking. I don't know if I'd been toasted if I broke thru the ice, but my guess is yes.........
esshup, that example sounded very dangerous! Breaker tripped or not, I'm with you and wouldn't have broke through the ice either!
Well, as an update, I found that I will NOT find a 220v GFCI receptacle. So I will be purchasing an outdoor breaker panel, install a 2-pole 20A GFCI breaker and run the wires to the receptacles in the box. With those breakers at $75 plus and hard to find, I was hoping for a cheaper alternative.
Thanks everyone for the input, Pond Boss Rocks!
BTW, got the compressor housing made tonight, finish it up tomorrow with some paint, get the post holes dug to mount it on, get the electricity ran and hoping to run the 900' of weighted hose to the 4 diffusers and get it running by the end of the weekend. Yeah right
Tip for the weighted hose. Uncoil it and get it all stretched out on the ground in "S" shapes from the shore. I think it's easier to pull into the water when it's laid out like that. It helps greatly if you have a helper on shore too.
Thanks esshup, and as an added tip from Ted at Cleanponds.com, he said if you tie a "float" (milk jug, etc.) on the tubing every 50' or so it keeps it afloat while you're dragging it out. And with all the submerged FA in my pond he said it would prevent having to pull it through all that stuff. Then after dropping the diffuser in place untie the floats and the tubing sinks into place. I'm anxious to give that one a try.
And with 900' of tubing to run, I will have a helper!
Tip for the weighted hose. Uncoil it and get it all stretched out on the ground in "S" shapes from the shore. I think it's easier to pull into the water when it's laid out like that. It helps greatly if you have a helper on shore too.
I second that idea! Even with a helper on just a 100' run, we didn't uncoil the hose the first time and it was definitely more difficult. Lesson learned and stretched it out for the second run. Went alot smoother with it uncoiled and the helper was able to feed me the hose easier.
Good luck on the install and congrats! Post some pics when you get it set up!
Just a thought but if your well pump is also 240v, do away with the safety switch and install the outdoor breaker panel. Then, use one GFCI breaker and come out of the box to a junction box(such as an outdoor receptacle box with receptacle) and run wire to the well pump then run another to the diffuser. Then, both are GFCI protected. You may be able to stay with a 20a breaker but if not, jump to a 30a GFCI breaker.
If the well pump is not 240v, someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think you could use just one leg of the 240v for the well pump and then run both legs to the diffuser.
I suggest buying a breaker panel with some expansion room too for that just in case scenario. The one we put at the diffuser had 6 slots.
I'm no electrician but I know just enough to be a hazard to myself.
Just want to thank everyone for the advice and input. Again, a special thanks to Ted Lea at Cleanponds, he will ALWAYS take the time to help! The system is wired and installed and ran my first 30 minutes this morning. I've attached some pictures of the housing and finished product. Thank you all again.
Congratulations! Lookin good!!! And so the passion begins my friend. Keep up the good work on your place and let us know how the system does over the next couple months!!!!
Thank you Tranquility and I'll keep you all posted!
As for the duckweed and remaining surface mats of FA, I don't remember who posted the picture of the homemade skimmer but using his/her idea I made my own out of 1x2's (I don't have an aluminum welder).
Pic attached and it works great! Although I can fill a wheel barrow from just a 5'x10'area and my pond is 2 acres, 75% covered in DW . Now if I can just build one about 20' wide I might be in good shape
. Now if I can just build one about 20' wide I might be in good shape 
