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The chart that was posted is just a generalized depiction of changes in pH values. Notice that the chart does not give any numeric values for Alkalinity. A test should be conducted to determine present pond Alkalinity level.

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As I said above, tests are scheduled for tuesday on both the pond water and well water. Tests will be done locally with same day samples. Betcha iron is high and Alkalinity is low, but I guess that is obvious.

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Budster,

Sounds normal to me for a low alkalinity pond that has a low buffering capability and diurnal shifts in PH. I think you will find low alkalinity when you get your tests back. I do know this is typical in some Texas ponds.

I will differ to Eric et al that have more experience with ponds in your region, but from what I hear they usually add lime to bring up the alkalinity.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Thanks Cecil:

Looks like!! I will get my tests on tuesday, and then confer here on the forum with all the pondsters and decide on a solution. I appreciate your interest and all your in-put. Have a great week-end.

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Pondsters:

Tested well water, PH is nearly nuetral(7.5)out of well, going into pond, will be interested to see what well water Akalinity is as well as pond water..................Budster

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Up-Date

Tested this am, these are the results:

PH........well-7.8........pond-7.5

Iron....... well-1.6 mg/L..... pond-.7 mg/L

Carbonate......... well-188 ppm........ pond-54 ppm
Hardness


Good results as far as Iron goes, not much higher in pond than normal surface water, well iron well below dangerous levels too. I will top off as much as I need to. PH out of the ground (well water) is almost nuetral, PH in pond is variable. I will check PH 3 times daily and keep track for a week to see if their is any change in pattern. Driller couldn't do Alkalinity test but based on PH flucuations it appears it is low. Will decide on Ag. lime treatment in a week or two. One note, low PH is common here, both my pastures are low, so it makes sense my pond sub-surface would be too. All other parameters tested were normal, added a DIY re-circulating pump areator last week-end and in 3 days 10% surface alge (green wet blanket) turned brown and disappeared. Water clearity picked up a couple inches too, Water color still deep Green, aquatic vegetation looks good. Looks like a happy pond right now....Budster

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Pretty good results. Pond water is on the 'Soft' side but that is typical for most Southern states and is only a concern when heavy metals are present at problem levels.
One note: your well water at a pH of 7.8 is nowhere close to neutral. Since pH is a logarithmic scale, a difference of one pH unit is equivalent to a tenfold difference in hydrogen ion concentration. You must test for Alkalinity to determine how much lime to add. Never, never, never blindly administer any kind of water treatment, ALWAYS test first.

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Have been monitoring pH daily for a week, seems my base pH is about 7.2 to 7.5, that is the constant reading early AM. Late afternoon pH flucuates from 7.7 to 9.0 depending on the amount of sunshine (cloudy, partly cloudy, sunny), indicating pH increases caused by lowered CO2 concentration due to photosynthesis. In reading about this the article suggests the use of cracked corn added to the pond in the amount of 15# per acre daily for a week. Apparently when it decomposes it adds substantial amounts of CO2 helping to off-set CO2 loss from photosythesis, in turn helping to minimize pH increases during periods of high rates of photosynthesis. Are any of you pondsters aware of this practice or better yet ever tried it. Any information would be appreciated as I will probably start this treatment latter today if I can find the cracked corn. My source for this info. was Texas A@M Agg. sciences web site so I think it is probably good info.

Let me know ya'll.

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The addition of organic matter of any form will do two (2) things;
1. It WILL increase the CO2 levels. Only this increase will be evident during the entire diel cycle, It will not only lower the high (PM) pH levels but also the AM levels. You will still have the same differential in test readings. You want to ideally keep the pH range between 6.5 and 8.5. This has been determined to be the most suitable range for most aquatic organisms.
2. The bacterial action on this additional organic matter may result in a severe drop in DO levels as the bacteria utilize Oxygen in the breakdown process; CO2 being the by-product.

Ag lime is still you best course of action given the info that you have posted.

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Originally Posted By: Instar
The addition of organic matter of any form will do two (2) things;
1. It WILL increase the CO2 levels. Only this increase will be evident during the entire diel cycle, It will not only lower the high (PM) pH levels but also the AM levels. You will still have the same differential in test readings. You want to ideally keep the pH range between 6.5 and 8.5. This has been determined to be the most suitable range for most aquatic organisms.
2. The bacterial action on this additional organic matter may result in a severe drop in DO levels as the bacteria utilize Oxygen in the breakdown process; CO2 being the by-product.

Ag lime is still you best course of action given the info that you have posted.


As you have stated, a decrease of .5 will lower both the am and pm pH to the parameters you suggest as ideal. I have good aereation 24/7 to keep O2 levels acceptable, seems like a little drop in over all ph is safer than changing the natural alkalinity

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Unless you are able to continuously and accurately monitor the DO level, I maintain that Ag lime is your best course of action. Considerably less chance of creating a detrimental imbalance in the water chemistry.

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How much Ag.lime per accre or gal. of water? I do not have the means to evenly spread it through out the pond. I will have to broadcast from the shore perimeter, that's the best I could do right now, I don't have a small boat and have only a week before I have to leave for about a month, won't be here to monitor any actions I might take. Maybe the safest is to do nothing till I get back?

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I would definitely wait until you return from your trip. Any changes that are made that will affect either water chemistry or the food chain/web should be monitored.
I am sure that you can find the formula for the addition of ag lime on the web or probably right here on this forum. You will need to know the surface area of the pond. You are liming the soil at the bottom of the pond, not the water.

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Thanks.....................Budster

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Here is what I posted to the other thread this am.

You want CO2 and H2S loss and the increase in DO (dissolved O2) by plants , wind (air interface) and water movement. What is your alkalinity? That is what buffers ph swings. Probably better to add ag lime.

With alkalinity of around 50 you are in good shape - could use a little lime. I would do nothing. Ph swings are normal.














Last edited by ewest; 05/14/12 04:44 PM.















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Thanks ewest:

Swings are not as bad as I first thought, about 1.5 to 1.8 am to pm, as you say some swing is normal. Good vegetation, fish and turtles all doing well, minnow fry evrywhere, I think all is well, I'm nor going to mess with it, it's too easy to over think this stuff.................Budster

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