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Joined: Apr 2002
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Bill I am curious about feeding fish in a cage or trap. I have not found a cage yet but haven't looked hard yet. Even though I want to get rid of the hybrid bluegill, I don't necessarily want them to waste at least the eating size. My wife caught one 10" yesterday. I did buy a small screen holding "bucket" (for lack of a better word) today and have some hybrids in it that were caught this evening. I like to clean a few at a time. I appreciate any thoughts you have on this.

B. Morris


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Bill,
I've built all kinds of stuff using 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth (wire). It sounds like an interesting but simple project. You might also look at the links area at the Pond Boss home page. A lot of pond suppliers advertise there and have some pretty neat free catalogs.

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Bill,

I would go with a black plastic mesh that is available from many aquaculture suppliers. If you can't find one let me know and I can advise. Many will sell it by the foot, and it typically is about four feet in height. The plastic will last longer, is nontoxic(I believe hardware cloth is galvanized), not as rough on the fish as hardware cloth, and easy to work with. I've had some cages for three or four years and they are still holding up fine.

I use 1 1/2 inch pvc glued together for the frame, and lash the plastic mesh to it using lock ties available at any hardware supply. I would suggest joining the corners with three way pvc connectors which you may have to find from an aquaculture supplier. I drill holes in my pvc so it will fill with water weighing it down but attach clorox/orange juice containers near the top that have their lids glued on to float the cage. Attach them so the top of the cage is above water about 8 inches to keep the fish from jumping out. I used to attach brown tarping to the corners for shade, but I now use piece of builders styrofoam billets for shade as it is more rigid. I drill holes into the foam and put air hose or surgical tubing in the holes for the twist tie to go through to prevent the foam from tearing in the wind.

As far as mesh size, go as large as possible as algae will probably build up on the mesh. It's imperative that there is good water flow through the cage and there is at least two or three feet of water under the cage above the bottom. If you would like to see a picture of one of mine email me at jjbaird@ligtel.com.


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B Morris: Cecil's giving good advice. I've had cages built in 1989 from the netting like Cecil describes from Internet Inc. that are still in great shape; and used every year. Often some of my cages are in the water continuous year round. Address - InterNet Inc. 730 49th Ave, North, Minneapolis MN 55428 763-971-0871 www.internetplastic.com Sell netting by the foot; as much as you need. . I've used PVC pipe for a frame but the glue tends to break down and loosen after several years. I now use a fiberglass hoop or stainless steel band for my top rim/frame. Get my fiberglass hoops from Memphis Net and Twine; see below. Wrap netting around it to form a cylinder. Attach bottom netting and bring it a little up the sides to close the bottom. For up-right posts/legs I use four 1x2's lumber or PVC would also work so cage will stand upright from its own weight. Use romex stripped coated copper wire to attach legs to top/rim. One on each corner. Not sure how you pick a corner from a cylinder but do the best you can. Neting sides, when attached to the legs, also help hold the netting to a cylinder shape with minimal or little buckeling of the netting/sides. . I lace all my cage seams together with nylon/plastic twine and burn/melt the ends to stop fraying of knot ends. I use the twine to also attach the upright legs to the cage sides. Top is 1/2 plywood (1/4") and 1/2 1"x1" hardware cloth fencing that is hinged in the middle and the wood half wired down to the cage. . Wire top 1/2 lid allows easy access and makes it easy to add fish food and observe fish. I attach two rope handles (one each side, top rim) for lifting and hanging the cage.
Cage floats. For keeping the cage afloat I use kids swimming noodles or plastic 2 liter pop bottles or foam blocks each laced to the top in appropriate position to float the cage. Make sure you have adequate floatation because the submerged parts can after several months build up heavy attached growths which tend to make the cage a lot heavier. The growths, which are usu. dominated by algae, inhibit water flow thru the cage and cause additional stresses on the enclosed fish. The smaller the mesh size the quicker the netting cloging occurs. Without adequate floatation the cage can sink.

Fiberglass hoops diameters of 2 ft to 5 ft. pg 17 of 2002 catalog from Memphis Net & Twine Co., 901-458-2656, www.memphisnet.net
These cages are cheap for me to build. All the cost I have in them is the price of the netting and top rim, plus my time.
BCody


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As usual Bill Cody gives topnotch advice. I've never had the pvc pieces come apart in the water on me, as the entire cage holds it together anyway, and I use white duck tape (more water resistant) around all the joints. My cages are very large (I've made them as large as 10 by 10 by 4 feet deep, but now they are about 7 by 7 by 4 feet deep to get them out of the garage door after assembly. Round made be better, but my cages are rectangular. I'll scan a picture of one and email it to you as I promised.

You may have better luck feed training with a smaller cage that Bill Cody uses, as crowding can produce a competitive feeding response.

The plastic mesh really does last indefintely. I've actually taken cages completely apart and build different ones. I leave mine in the water indefintely even when I am not using them as they act as fish structure and I really have no place to store them. On land they are not that attractive and I believe the plastic may not last as long out of the water in direct sunlight although I could be wrong.

Cecil


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Bill, Cecil, thanks for the 2 posts. The cage is part of my effort to rid me of hybrid bluegills without a waste of resources. We are catching every evening almost and all hybrids are kept regardless of size. I may ask my neighbor if he wants the small ones in his "perch/catfish" pond. Otherwise into the cooking oil. NO FUTURE GREENIES! Just to let you know concerning my post on IDing juveniles, I saw the gill spot today on the larger of these small fish. They are panfish. Thanks for all your insite and knowledge/experience. May be a pondmeister someday. I need to be as much time as I spend there. Thanks.

BMorris


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Fish Cage Kits & Preassembled:
Preassembed cages and net pens can be pruchased from INQUA Corp, Box 86, Dobbs Ferry NY 10522. 212-715-9202. Aluminum parts and fittings. Quality but not cheap.

Cage kits available from Aquatic Eco-Systems, Inc. 1767 Benbow Court, Apopka FL 32703 www.aquaticeco.com 407-886-3939

Fish Cage Shape Postscript. Shape of the cage is not very critical except when raising hyb stripers. They do better in round cages which allows them to fullfill their tendency to be active swimmers. Research has shown they can keep swimming easier for extended periods if they have a round cage.


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