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I am looking to set up a large filtration system for several large poly tanks that may hold 200-300 gallons of water each. Lets just say 2 -3 tanks for now. I have a ton of the 55 gallon plastic drums to use for this. I am wondering if any of you guys have any ideas on how to set these up to filter these tanks. I.E.- What kind of things should I be putting into the barrels to filter out the crud? How should I plumb them? In tandem or 1 for each tank? I have heavy duty shelves in my shop that I can place them on so they will be higher than the tanks the fish are in if needed. What type of pumps should I be using to move this water through the system? I also have several water trough heaters that I would like to hook up to some sort of thermostat. They are rated 1000 watts. Anyone have any ideas for this? Thanks, John

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Sounds like you need something like Chris's RAS thread.

Do a search on "ras" and you'll get a bunch of links.


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What about using a large pool sand filter like this?



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The specs are

* Cleans pools fast
* Uses sand (use only pool filter sand #20 silica) instead of a small cartridge.
* Includes easy to use 7 position valve to help keep your pool clear.
* Includes a powerful 1/2 hp self priming pump with hair and lint trap.
* For pools up to 5,500 Gallons.
* Moves 41 Gallons per Minute!!!
* Has both 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" hose fittings.
* Works on Intex®, Simple Set®, and other plastic frame or inflatable pools.
* Includes adapter for Intex® Pools®

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Thanks JHAP

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What do you think of using lava rock instead of bio barrels? The idea is to provide a surface for the bacteria to grow on right? Lava rock is pretty cheap around here.

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JohnK, I have considered a pool filter and think it would work for the excretement, but you will still need a Bio-Filter to eliminate ammonia. I think the pool filter would clog pretty regularly and require considerable plumbing for indoor use.



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Hey, I am doing a search for "ras" and I am getting nothing. I tried the advanced search and everything.

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John, check out this easy to build system. A key lessons here is the water movement through the entire system with the pipes, and I'd try to use the cheap substrate.

http://www.skippysstuff.com/biofiltr.htm
http://www.skippysstuff.com/compfiltr.html

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John,

I would do a settling chamber to remove most of the solids. Basically, picture a large cone shaped container with a valve on the bottom. Your water comes from the fish tank(s) into the the container about halfway between the top and bottom. On the other side you have your outlet, which is at/near the top of the container. You want a very large container for all this so that you don't keep the solids stirred up due to the water flow. Every few days you simply open your bottom drain of the settling container and flush out the solids to your wastewater system (septic tank, city sewer, garden plot, etc.). I would try to do this inline with my mechanical and bio filtration, but that will require a bit of math to get flow rates to jive with each other. By using a settling chamber as a "pre filter" for solids you will GREATLY reduce the load on your mechanical/bio filtration system, and in turn, cut your routine maintenance of it way down.


Last edited by Weissguy; 04/03/09 03:13 PM.

12 ac pond in NW Missouri. 28' max depth at full pool. Fish Present: LMB, BG, RES, YP, CC, WB, HSB, WE, BCP, WCP, GSH.
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JohnK, this is an important thread for me as well because of an upcoming major project I have going.

I think if you and I explore this in tandem we may get even further. I have some information I can share with you.

In my recent studies on RAS, I found there to be one important and crucial parameter; What sort of "footprint" do you have available for your project?

Also, it might be useful for you to lock in on the number of pounds of fish you wish to raise, for how long, and how much feed you intend on feeding them during their tenure.


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Right now I have a 30 gallon tub elevated above my tilapia tank that get's water from an old pond pump that's just laying in the bottom of the tank.( the tilapia are in around 150 gallons of water) Inside the tub starting from the bottom I have a layer of lava rock then a layer of filter media then another layer of lava rock and on top is a foam cushion that would be like what's in a couch cushion. The water pours in the top and comes out a hole in the bottom. I put a bottle of starter bacteria in there also. I also have a pool filter hooked to a 1 1/4 inch pvc line that has holes in it to spray the water back into the tank. I am unsure of the flow rate but it is a 1 1/4 inch line so I am sure it's pretty good. I purchased a pond pump connector that has slits in it to keep the fish from being sucked up and connected it to the inlet. The water is crystal clear for now. Would I benefit from trying to put bog plants in the tub? I would probably have to remove the cushion if I did.

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 Originally Posted By: JohnK
Right now I have a 30 gallon tub elevated above my tilapia tank that get's water from an old pond pump that's just laying in the bottom of the tank.( the tilapia are in around 150 gallons of water) Inside the tub starting from the bottom I have a layer of lava rock then a layer of filter media then another layer of lava rock and on top is a foam cushion that would be like what's in a couch cushion. The water pours in the top and comes out a hole in the bottom. I put a bottle of starter bacteria in there also. I also have a pool filter hooked to a 1 1/4 inch pvc line that has holes in it to spray the water back into the tank. I am unsure of the flow rate but it is a 1 1/4 inch line so I am sure it's pretty good. I purchased a pond pump connector that has slits in it to keep the fish from being sucked up and connected it to the inlet. The water is crystal clear for now. Would I benefit from trying to put bog plants in the tub? I would probably have to remove the cushion if I did.


Can you post a picture? If not you can PM me and I'll have you send me a picture and I will post it for you. I'd love to see what you've got going right now.


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Here is something out of left field. I work at a chemical company where we have some large water softening, reverse osmosis and de-ionizing equipment. This equipment is serviced by a local water treatment company that sells home and industrial equipment.

During one of my many conversations with the owner and employees I learned that they do a lot of water treatment in hospitals with kidney dialysis machines. Apparently these machines use lots of activated carbon which is frequently changed out. According to them this carbon still has 95% of its life left but is still replaced because of the strict requirements of the hospital. For something that important I don't blame them. This carbon is then thrown away by the bagful.

Activated carbon is the same thing you find in your aquarium filter cartridges which can absorb ammonia. I plan on trying a RAS next year after I move and have talked to our water guy about getting some of the carbon. I already have an inside track on this cause the water guy wants to keep me happy as I am his contact for service calls.

Of course there are dialysis machines all over the country and companies that service them. So just maybe if you contact the right place and talk real nice you might find a supply of free or cheap activated carbon that you can use in a RAS. Now how much is needed or how long it will last I have no idea. Maybe next year I will have experience with it but for now I just wanted to throw it out there.


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 Originally Posted By: JohnK
Hey, I am doing a search for "ras" and I am getting nothing. I tried the advanced search and everything.


The search system on this forum can be tricky to use. Someone here (I think it was Dwight but am not completely certain) taught me a great trick.

Go to Google and type in

ras site:pondboss.com

This will execute a search for the term RAS and limit it to the pond boss site. It works great.


JHAP
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The great AaronM let us know that trick!



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 Originally Posted By: DJT
Here is something out of left field. I work at a chemical company where we have some large water softening, reverse osmosis and de-ionizing equipment. This equipment is serviced by a local water treatment company that sells home and industrial equipment.

During one of my many conversations with the owner and employees I learned that they do a lot of water treatment in hospitals with kidney dialysis machines. Apparently these machines use lots of activated carbon which is frequently changed out. According to them this carbon still has 95% of its life left but is still replaced because of the strict requirements of the hospital. For something that important I don't blame them. This carbon is then thrown away by the bagful.

Activated carbon is the same thing you find in your aquarium filter cartridges which can absorb ammonia. I plan on trying a RAS next year after I move and have talked to our water guy about getting some of the carbon. I already have an inside track on this cause the water guy wants to keep me happy as I am his contact for service calls.

Of course there are dialysis machines all over the country and companies that service them. So just maybe if you contact the right place and talk real nice you might find a supply of free or cheap activated carbon that you can use in a RAS. Now how much is needed or how long it will last I have no idea. Maybe next year I will have experience with it but for now I just wanted to throw it out there.


I doubt the Hospital Carbon could be given away due to the extreme bio-hazard.

Also IIRC,carbon does not absorb ammonia. Zeolite does. Ammonia needs bacteria to be broken down into less toxic nitrates which other bacteria break down into nitrites---I may have the nitrate/nitrite thing reversed.



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I will check with the water guys but I think the carbon purifies the water before going into the machine but not what cycles though. If that is the case it would not be a biohazard. The hospitals don't handle the carbon they leave that to the water company.

I thought carbon absorbed ammonia but maybe not. Someone may enlighten us.


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This guy uses duckweed to help filter/feed his fish. He has a RAS system setup in his backyard where he raises and sells tilapia.

http://tilapiafarmingathome.com/basics.aspx

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Bruce , I will try to get you a pic soon.

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Looking forward to it. I'm developing some serious ideas...


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 Originally Posted By: Rainman
The great AaronM let us know that trick!


Oops, sorry Aaron.


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My boxer is having puppies today so it may be a couple days till I can post pic's Bruce. I will get them ASAP. Thanks, John

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I just purchased one of these tanks today for a hatching / grow out tank. I will probably move them to another tank once they are large enough to eat the youngins. I could use some ideas for filtration. I would like to use gravity if possible. However, I don't want to place this tank to high because then I wouldn't be able to look into it. It has a large ball valve on the side at the bottom. I also don't want to suck up any youngins. It is around 250 gallons. I may even use this as another breeder tank. I do have the option of purchasing more of these if needed down the road. Thanks, John

P.S. Bruce, I took pictures on my digital ,but my wife took my camera today. I will post soon. Thanks again

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John K: That's a good idea. I have one here sitting empty and I won't need it for it's intended purpose for a year or so. I'll be watching!


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