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#9433 08/13/07 07:16 PM
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I was at the pond this past weekend to check out the renovation progress. The contractor has been making the sides so that there is a step dropoff to discourage plant growth and give the pond plenty of depth. The final depth of the bottom will be 10-12 feet all around the pond.

Here is a picture of the pond bank. Not too sure what the slope is but it's fairly steep.


Will this create an environment that it not conducive to bluegill and/or largemouth spawning? Should I have the contractor put some dirt back in the pond to create shallower flats away from the bank?

#9434 08/13/07 07:40 PM
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I would at least have a couple areas that were level and 3-4 ft deep.
















#9435 08/13/07 09:10 PM
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I would agree. I see the bluegill nests in 3 to 6 inches of water along the shallows of our pond.
You need terrain and not just a big "soup bowl" if you want a fish pond.
I think you need a balance between trying to keep plant growth under control. If you want a fish pond you need and want areas of plant growth. I would also add pea gravel spawning beds in the shallows. It looks like you have lots of clay and lager stone. Blue gill love pea gravel to bed in. We added a load this summer and it amazing to see all the bowl shaped hollows that showed up in about a weeks time.

#9436 08/13/07 09:45 PM
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RobA - If the contractor is not finished then have him at least push up a semi-circular curb or berm (approx 12"-14" high) in an area along one shore. The semicular curb can be 10ft to 40ft in dia and extend from shoreline down to about 4-5 ft deep. The curb is designed to contain gravel, sand or small crushed stone that will be dumped into this area and spread out to a layer 6"-12"deep. Sunfish and bass do not not need absolutely flat areas to build a nest in. Spawn bed material can be terraced is you desire to make it more appealing to spawners but this is probably not necessary. Their digging & fanning activities will cause some terrace affects. You will not need a lot of successful nests to supply lots of young BG. A lack of a beach flat area will result in lots fewer weed and algae problems. Your small fish numbers may not be high but your weed amounts will be low. It is all about your goals for the pond.

If the contractor is finished then this could be made with cement blocks or similar items. I would put a short stake in each block so it does not slide or work its way down the pond bank after the pond is full and the spawn gravel material is pushing against the blocks. Fill the semicular area to the height of the cement blocks approx 6" thick or deep. Bed or depression nest spawners with find and use the area even if is in on a fairly steep slope, if nothing else is more suitable to them.


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#9437 08/13/07 11:31 PM
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do you expect yer pond level to remain at full pool? if not, then you may want to have the potential spawning grounds (as described above by ewest, tuzz, and cody) at multiple depths.


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#9438 08/14/07 08:07 AM
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Dave: I do expect it to be at or near full pool since the plan is to have it fed by the adjacent creek that is always flowing.

ewest, Tuzz, Bill: the contractor is not done yet and he does know that when he is done working on the "bowl" that I will want to change the bottom contour in some areas. He knows dirt but is looking to me for how I want to make it a fishing pond.

I really like the idea of a semi-circular berm and gravel. There are 2 good spots I can think of to add these. I'll probably also add a small underwater "island" ringed with boulders that will have a depth of 4-5 feet. I'm also thinking of adding a dirt curb or shelf 2-3 feet below full pool water level in some areas to allow some plant growth.

Now I have to figure out a good non-invasive plant to add.

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Here are 2 Links that shows the structure of our 1 1/2 acre pond. We used a lot of stone and cut valleys and shelves as well as 2 deep holes that go down over 16 feet when we are at full level:
http://catskillpond.com/photoalbum/The%20Filling%20Begins%20Let%20it%20Rain/index.html

http://catskillpond.com/photoalbum/More%20Filling/index.html





Last edited by Tuzz; 08/22/07 11:28 AM. Reason: update URL
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Tuzz: I like it. I have plenty of boulders to use. I think I may print some of your pictures and show them to my excavator. Thanks.

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You may want to install some artificial cover like some of the platic trees that some of the others talk about on other posts.

Another piece of advice. If you want to build a dock, do it now. I still have plans to do it but our pond filled so fast that I never got to it so now I need to do it while it is full. Would be easier before hand to set posts while you are on dry land.

A friend of mine said that I can use 5 gallon spackle buckets filled with concrete and that a dock will do well with that kind of support too. Any advice from some of you out there?

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Tuzz: I have had plenty of time to obsess about what I will be doing. Too much time actually. I have built several PVC trees, 30 gallon poly drum stucture and landscape piping structure to put in. I posted some of them here

I also hired an Amish deckbuilder to put in a dock before the pond fills up. He'll be using 6x6's for the supports.

While I do like the idea of plastic structure I also want to include rocks/boulders similar to your pond.

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I like the PVC pipe "tree" I think I need to build some of these.
How is your dock being secured to the pond bottom and do you have any photos of the dock? I'm looking for ideas.

Here is where you can see the rest of our pond:
http://catskillpond.com/photo.html

I designed the web site for my buddy Scott Trava from Catskill Pond and used our project for the photos.

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Since my pond is drained right now the 6x6's will be set 3 feet deep and secured with some concrete and cross braces. I'm just building a plain dock with an 4'x10' approach ramp leading out to a 12'x16' dock. No railings. Pressure treated supports, beams and joists. I'll be using ProCell composite decking for the surface. There are some real nice decks posted on this site. Brettski has one. Ahvatsa too.


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