Pond Boss Forums POND CONSTRUCTION Selecting a site New pond design

I will be putting in a 1 acre pond this summer and would like some help with the design. The pond will measure approximately 300' X 150' with the long side running north/south. There is currently a waterway that runs through this area that carries water 3 or 4 times per year. There is also a 10 inch main tile line running throuth the waterway which will supply water to the pond. Water level will be regulated with an outlet tile connected to the 10 inch main. Overflow will be allowed on the north end at approximately 2 feet higher than the outlet tile.

I am looking for suggestions on how to contour the pond floor. Here is how I currently have it laid out. All depths are measured from the top of the outlet tile. South end tapers at 15 degrees to a depth of 4' for a distance of 45' then drops off over a distance of another 45' to a depth of 13'. The north end mirrors the south end except the 15 degree slope is changed to 30 degrees. The west side tapers at an angle of 15 degrees to a depth of 13 feet while the east side tapers at an angle of 30 degrees to a depth of 13 feet. Total floor area at 13 feet depth is approximately 0.2 acres. Soil type is heavy blue clay and I am located in NE Illinois, south of I-80. I would like to stock it with BGs and LMB.

Any suggestions on how to improve this layout? What percentage of the floor should be developed for spawning and at what depth? What percentage of the floor needs to be at maximum depth?

Steve - Excellent articles on pond building, design and construction were written by Mike Otto and published in the last six or seven issues of Pond Boss magazine. See the titles of his articles in the indexes of Pond Boss mag located in this Forum's heading of Product Sources (near the bottom of "forum home" button at top right of this page). In the January-Feburary issue of PBoss, Mike's article title is "Undercover Work" and in it he did a good job explaining types of structure and bottom features. In it he describes rules and planning for underwater structure & with pictures to include lots of ideas for building cover, structure, creating habitat for fish.

Use pea sized gravel for spawning beds that are located in one to 5 ft of water at the south end. Slightly larger gravel (1/2"-1") is a little better for the deeper (4'-5') bass beds. Beds should be at least 10'x10' but larger is better. You can make one large bed from shallow to deeper water or place gravel in two or three smaller areas or patches at the south end. Gravel should be spread 4" to 8" thick. Thicker layers are better in my opinion. Nests or spawning bowls of large bgill and bass can be up to 6" deep and 2' in diameter into the gravel. But typically small fish only make shallow (2"-3") depressions abt 12" -15" dia. . Often the same bowl shaped depressions are used each year by the same or other fish.

Since you are in northern US the the general rule of thumb is to have about 20%-25% of the basin at the deepest depth. This minimizes the chance of winter kill.

I think if the waterway contains fertilized field runoff and muddy water then you will see lots of filamentous algae growth each spring and summer from the nutrient laden incoming waters. This could be problematic depending on the water quality of the waterway and your goals or expectations. The pond will act like a big settling basin. If you have heavy silt laden drainage water it will contribute to excessive sedimentation and filling of the pond with mud. Periodic draining and scraping may be necessary every 20 or 30 yrs.

Thanks Bill. How can I obtain some of these back issues? I am a new subscriber and just received my first issue Monday.

I think I have the silting issue taken care of. The water generally flows clear and the waterway is about 1500 feet long with thick grass. I intend to build a dam about 2 feet tall where the water will go into the pond and plant a very thick row of bushes in front of this to filter large particles from the water (corn stalks). By backing up the water in the waterway it will slow it down and help the grass filter the water. Hopefully this will also take some of the nutrients out of the water.

Algae is a concern I haven't quite figured out how to deal with yet. I do not want to control it chemically as I plan on pumping water from the pond for spraying fields in the spring. I may try staking a couple bales of oat straw under water for control.

Steve I question the algae inhibiting ability of oat straw. Barley straw is as better choice. The best application method is maybe for you to have the inlet stream water flow thru lose straw bundles or cages before the water goes into the pond. B.straw works best if it has lots of water flowing through and around it. Not sure if water retention time around the straw is an important factor.

I think back issues are availabele on the home page (1st page that opens) left side first box down has "order now" books, videos, products and back issues. . Back issues can also be ordered from the magazine (toward back) by mail or phone.

Hello Bill, do you have a source for the barley bales? I can't find any around here.
Thanks
Homer

Homer - There are a couple places that sell barley straw near me in NW Ohio but I'm not sure they ship bales of straw. Do you want to ask them. I can supply names and phone numbers or web sites.

Hello Bill.
Yes I would like some phone #'s or web sites.
I will check them out if you will supply some.
Thanks
Homer

The cure for filamentous algie - Tilapia. Check if it's allowed in your state. If it is difficult to get, you may have to get an aquarium to assure supply when you water temp reaches 60 deg F every year.

Your Bass will love you for it.

I have a barley contact south of Rockford Il. His name is Mike Keast 815-793-8605. I haven't talked with him this year, but he works in Rkfd and has brought some up to meet some of my clients in the area.His prices seem reasonable. BTW, I do pond mgt work and consulting from about Peoria north to Madison in Wisconsin. email is fishmgr@hotmail.com.
Robert B