Pond Boss Magazine
https://www.pondboss.com/images/userfiles/image/20130301193901_6_150by50orangewhyshouldsubscribejpeg.jpg
Advertisment
Newest Members
Mcarver, araudy, Ponderific2024, MOLINER, BackyardKoi
18,502 Registered Users
Forum Statistics
Forums36
Topics40,962
Posts557,975
Members18,503
Most Online3,612
Jan 10th, 2023
Top Posters
esshup 28,534
ewest 21,499
Cecil Baird1 20,043
Bill Cody 15,148
Who's Online Now
9 members (highflyer, Kanon M, Theo Gallus, Sunil, catscratch, jludwig, sprkplug, canyoncreek, gehajake), 1,174 guests, and 348 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 11
J
Jbbb Offline OP
OP Offline
J
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 11
My pond is about 2-3 acres with a 14" horizontal spillway with an aluminum hood over it. I have had few issues with clogs (surprisingly) but they're always at the entrance and easy to clear. We got a bunch of rain on Sunday and I found myself waist deep clearing the entrance on Monday and today, all sticks and leaves. I don't want to find myself in this position again so I'm planning on a spillway guard. Read several posts along these lines and I think I'll go with what Theo Gallus posted in 2008, if I may quote:
"Currently on my new pond, I have 5 T-posts driven into the bottom in front of the drain inlet in a semi-circle with 3 short T-posts tied horizontally across them at and above the normal water level."

Finally my question: I want to put some kind of screen in front of the T-posts and I have plenty of old cow panels laying around but the openings are 4" tall by 8" long. Do you think that is sufficient? I would think that would catch any branches which might cause a problem but allow the leaves and pine needles to go through. Tried to attach a photo; and keep in mind that the pond is high right now.

Opinions and options appreciated.
[Linked Image]

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,974
Likes: 277
Moderator
Lunker
Online Confused
Moderator
Lunker
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,974
Likes: 277
To revisit a blast from the past, the t-posts were attempting to guard an 8" drain tile inlet. (Probably not too long after 2008) I replaced them with a commercially available wire guard, pretty much identical to these.

At my other pond, the drain box is surrounded (on three sides) by 1/2" plastic mesh (similar to plastic snow fence, but made for pond use), about 3" tall (submerged to the bottom of the pond tied on to (wait for it) t-posts. Having a much larger surface area than the drain box, it has been immune to clogging that would impede drainage (although this particular pond doesn't get a huge amount of floating debris.


"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever."
-S. M. Stirling
[Linked Image from i.pinimg.com]
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 607
F
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
F
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 607
I think your old cattle panels will work just fine.

However, you might consider something solid (or with a much smaller opening) right at the top of your new screening structure.

You want to exclude all of the large and small floating debris that enters your pond after a storm. Make sure your panels stick up as high as your "flood" water level. Put some galvanized hardware cloth from the top of the panel to a few inches below the level of your hood inlet level.

After a storm, that screen will almost certainly be clogged with big floating branches (that could have clogged your outlet) as well as small floating debris like leaves and pine needles. However, your pond will drain the excess water just as efficiently through the lower 4" x 8" cattle panel openings.

Further, you don't really want the leaves and pine needles to stay in your pond. You could go out the day after the storm with a rake or pool skimmer and throw the unwanted debris over the back of the dam.

P.S. The proposed solution will be a little "ugly" in your pond, but quite effective. If that doesn't matter, then pursue your most effective "engineering" solution. However, on analogous projects on my property, my wife frequently gets a design veto, to trade off effectiveness versus how it looks. Usually a "trip back to the drawing board" can create a solution that makes ALL of the parties happy!

Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 11
J
Jbbb Offline OP
OP Offline
J
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 11
Had to look up galvanized hardware cloth. That should work fine. Thanks for the input.

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
R
RAH Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
R
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
I put galvanized hardware cloth over my pig-panel debris box and it rusted away in just a few years. It was submerged, but I thought it would last. A waste of time and money for me.

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 276
A
Offline
A
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 276
Agree. Hardware cloth isn't up to the task for ground/water contact.

2"x4" welded wire might gain you a year or two. Might.

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 607
F
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
F
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 607
Multiple down votes for hardware cloth!

Have to switch to Plan B.

The material at the top of the spillway guard does not even need to be permeable. The purpose is to block off the floating debris from reaching the outlet pipe hood.

Would treated ground contact wood last longer? Do you have any plastic materials in the back of the shed that would work?

Another idea would be to make a floating square of pvc pipe (to work like the opposite of the feeding rings used to contain floating fish food). If built correctly, that should work to block off floating debris outside of the square, and create a raft of crap that you can later scoop out of the pond.

I am a little worried that a stiff wind would push some of the debris over the top of the rounded pipe. Maybe attach some weld wire to the pvc, so that it sticks up 4" above and down 4" below the pipe. If that worked, then you wouldn't even need to drive t-posts offshore. You could just attach your "guard" on the shore at two points.

You could also pull it out for winter or if it is too ugly for a swim party.

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
R
RAH Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
R
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
I built a fixed dock over my outlet and closed off the sides with pig panels. Been using for 20 years. Only issues were beaver tunneling under the wire to clog the drain. Built a complete pig-panel box on the upside of a culvert in another location where beaver are active, and so far is working.

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 607
F
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
F
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 607
Originally Posted by RAH
I built a fixed dock over my outlet and closed off the sides with pig panels. Been using for 20 years. Only issues were beaver tunneling under the wire to clog the drain. Built a complete pig-panel box on the upside of a culvert in another location where beaver are active, and so far is working.

More good info!

I have observed beavers dragging cut trees of impressive size across lakes. What were your beavers using to clog your outlet once they got inside your panels? Did they manage to get some large sticks under your panels and incorporated into their project?

I have seen them use clay and grass to make wet "adobe" at my property that can withstand running water. The beavers then start working sticks into their project. I don't know if Jbbb has them at his pond, but I imagine they could completely clog a hooded pond outlet in less than an hour!

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
R
RAH Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
R
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
Beaver got moderately sized sticks through, but decided water lily rhizomes and pickerelweed plants were great material to clog my pipe. Learned they actually eat a lot of this stuff during the warm season. Really thinned out my water lilies before they were trapped out.

1 member likes this: FishinRod
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534
Likes: 842
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534
Likes: 842
Ya know, plastic mesh is available from 3/16" openings all the way up to about 2" openings. That's what the fish cages are made of. No metal to rust, no zinc to bother the fish, no rough wire to damage the fish in the cages. It's available in rolls that are 4' wide.........


www.hoosierpondpros.com


http://www.pondboss.com/subscribe.asp?c=4
3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 607
F
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
F
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 607
Originally Posted by esshup
Ya know, plastic mesh is available from 3/16" openings all the way up to about 2" openings. That's what the fish cages are made of. No metal to rust, no zinc to bother the fish, no rough wire to damage the fish in the cages. It's available in rolls that are 4' wide.........

And if you bought a small roll of it use on your spillway guard, I bet you could find other uses for the rest of the roll around your pond!

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
R
RAH Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
R
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
I had some of this plastic mesh that got brittle and broke up, so make sure you know what you are buying. I made a fish cage but never got it out of the barn. After a couple years, it was useless even though it was kept inside.

Last edited by RAH; 03/12/22 05:15 AM.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,974
Likes: 277
Moderator
Lunker
Online Confused
Moderator
Lunker
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,974
Likes: 277
The plastic mesh I put up 20 years ago has held up well.

Sadly, the place I bought in from hasn't stocked it in some time (or I'd post a link).


"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever."
-S. M. Stirling
[Linked Image from i.pinimg.com]
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534
Likes: 842
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534
Likes: 842
Originally Posted by Theo Gallus
The plastic mesh I put up 20 years ago has held up well.

Sadly, the place I bought in from hasn't stocked it in some time (or I'd post a link).

I've never purchased from these people, but this is the type of netting I was talking about.

https://www.industrialnetting.com/cage-netting.html


www.hoosierpondpros.com


http://www.pondboss.com/subscribe.asp?c=4
3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
R
RAH Offline
Lunker
Offline
Lunker
R
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722
Likes: 282
I think that is where I bought my netting.

Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 31
Likes: 4
Offline
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 31
Likes: 4
I'm using an old chrome refrigerator shelf for a fish excluder on the outlet culvert. Fish don't swim on their sides, so I put the slots horizontal. The problem I have encountered using rectangular wire fence or hardware cloth is that it is difficult to clear.
There is a semicircle of large rip-rap in front of the grate to stop most of the floating grass and leaves.
If you have access to durable logs, like hedge, black locust, poplar, cypress you might make a log chain to float around the drain that would block floating debris and allow water to pass underneath.

Last edited by Hirsch56; 03/12/22 10:48 AM.

"Live your life so that when you sing your death song, you will die like a hero who is going home with no shame to meet the Creator and your family." - Tecumseh; April 9, 1809
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534
Likes: 842
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534
Likes: 842
Originally Posted by Hirsch56
I'm using an old chrome refrigerator shelf for a fish excluder on the outlet culvert. Fish don't swim on their sides, so I put the slots horizontal. The problem I have encountered using rectangular wire fence or hardware cloth is that it is difficult to clear.
There is a semicircle of large rip-rap in front of the grate to stop most of the floating grass and leaves.
If you have access to durable logs, like hedge, black locust, poplar, cypress you might make a log chain to float around the drain that would block floating debris and allow water to pass underneath.

Good thinking! I'm assuming you don't have flounder or halibut in your pond. LOL


www.hoosierpondpros.com


http://www.pondboss.com/subscribe.asp?c=4
3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).

Link Copied to Clipboard
Today's Birthdays
Hawkeye in Ohio, JStephens, optimalfishfood
Recent Posts
Happy Birthday Sparkplug!
by sprkplug - 04/26/24 11:43 AM
New pond leaking to new house 60 ft away
by gehajake - 04/26/24 11:39 AM
What did you do at your pond today?
by gehajake - 04/26/24 11:26 AM
YP Growth: Height vs. Length
by FishinRod - 04/26/24 10:12 AM
Compaction Question
by FishinRod - 04/26/24 10:05 AM
Prayers needed
by Sunil - 04/26/24 07:52 AM
What’s the easiest way to get rid of leaves
by liquidsquid - 04/26/24 06:58 AM
Low Alkalinity
by liquidsquid - 04/26/24 06:49 AM
Inland Silver sided shiner
by Bill Cody - 04/25/24 08:09 PM
1/2 Acre Pond Build
by Lumberman1985 - 04/25/24 03:01 PM
Howdy from West Central Louisiana
by ewest - 04/25/24 02:07 PM
Caught a couple nice bass lately...
by Dave Davidson1 - 04/24/24 03:39 PM
Newly Uploaded Images
Eagles Over The Pond Yesterday
Eagles Over The Pond Yesterday
by Tbar, December 10
Deer at Theo's 2023
Deer at Theo's 2023
by Theo Gallus, November 13
Minnow identification
Minnow identification
by Mike Troyer, October 6
Sharing the Food
Sharing the Food
by FishinRod, September 9
Nice BGxRES
Nice BGxRES
by Theo Gallus, July 28
Snake Identification
Snake Identification
by Rangersedge, July 12

� 2014 POND BOSS INC. all rights reserved USA and Worldwide

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5