Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Dock Building / cost

Water is starting rise in new pond. Had a deck builder quote a stationary dock. Material is 1500, labor 3500. Seems a bit high on the labor for a cash price? Dock will have 5x 15 walkway and then 8x10 or 8x12 main area. How hard is it to set post ? Know to use an angled base almost like an anchor. Treated wood or telephone pole? Or medal post?

I think the materials would be closer to about $1,200 and it would take about 3 days to build. I think the labor would be no more than $1,000, for a total of about $2,200, if it is built of all pressure treated pine with 4x6 rectangular posts. Just a quick estimate, of course. You could set the posts with a hand post hole digger and a tamping bar. It might help to have some gravel with the fines left in (SB-2) to put in the holes around the posts.

Not all pressure treated wood is the same. Some is treated better, and I searched around until I found some. You can go all the way up to a marine pressure treated, which of course the price is the highest.

I would use telephone poles, if the choice was available. Better than any pressure treated wood, IMO.

In regard to costs, I feel to many variables without knowing all the small details. Just like I said with the pressure treated. One guy may use the best, the next will cut every corner they can, from materials to labor. Key is to research. Lots of posts on here how to build, different materials used, etc.

Just a thought...

I often go with a modified "time and material contract" on projects such as this. I approve the materials and pay for them directly. The contractor only quotes his time.

Go with the telephone poles for your pilings. Buy them yourself so that you can pick the ones you want, and not all are treated the same. Ideally you want a newer pole treated to your suiting, and putting that on to a contractor often results in the whatever one is lying there.

What is the labor rate - hourly or for the project? $3500 seems high as it sits, but how many workers and how many days is the estimate? You can run the math and see the breakdown.

Quite frankly you might only need someone to set the pilings. Use SPAX bolts for your framing, hot dipped galvanized fasteners, and T-25 torx decking screws. The first page here has some step photos of our dock I built (the pilings were already driven into place):
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=433065&page=1

I agree with basslover,use telephone poles. Sometimes you can find new poles that were broken/split in handling but they should work out well for your use. I built my dock in 1982 with poles and it's been under roof and still solid.

WE used a post hole digger (with six ft. handles) and a sledge hammer and a tamping bar.

In my opinion, whether you use utility (telephone or power) poles or 4x6 treated posts depends on the height of the dock above the pond bottom. If it's less than 6 feet, I think the 4x6 would work fine. Any deeper, I would go for the bigger round poles. My little dock is only 12 feet long, 39 inches wide and is supported by 2-4x6 and 4-4x4 posts, otherwise all 2x6 lumber, and some smaller stuff for bracing.
But, it's only about 34 inches deep at full pool at the far end. Really just a flat platform to feed from and stay out of the mud. This was taken Dec 27, at 13 inches below full pool.

I know you are not in texas but I work for a utility company in texas and all our poles are treated with creosote... it's to help preserve the poles. I personally wouldnt use utility poles. But that's me maybe they are different up north

I recently retired from an electric utility after 35 years. We have not been using creosote treated poles for many years. They are now basically the same as the normal pressure treated ground contact lumber. With creosote poles, the treatment tended to migrate down toward the base of the pole, and the tops would rot out or get severe woodpecker damage. Now, with the new poles, the decay problem is just below the ground line. We had a few poles where the bases stayed submerged in water most or all the time, and I have never heard of one of them rotting at the bottom.

Use marine rated treated lumber. It will last forever, it is easy to work with (square!!!), and will mate up with standard hardware. I probably spent $300 on my dock. It is small though...

Words of wisdom:
1. The MOST important thing: Get your posts in before the pond fills! Otherwise just make a floating dock. Floating docks have an advantage of always being level with fluctuating water levels some ponds experience in dry weather.

Now your posts do NOT have to be pounded into the basin of your pond. You can set them any number of creative ways. Some people have used 5-gallon buckets with a post set in concrete if the area where the post is to set is relatively level. I dug holes maybe 2 feet down, 2 feet in diameter, and then drove in 4' concrete spikes and set wire between them before filling the holes level with concrete. I then set and squared 4x4 post block foundations on top of the freshly poured concrete. Probably a full bag of concrete per footing. I then used double-dipped 'U' end brackets and screws anchored to the blocks and screwed into place. The dock is extremely solid, even with our icy winters.

2. If using wood for decking, use the best stain money can buy and stain everything before laying the decking down. Staining over your head while swimming and getting bitten by whirly-gigs is a lesson in what not to do. Otherwise use that fancy vinegar-treated decking that doesn't need staining. So far all composites I have seen get moldy and "funny", or get slippery as an eel over time. Also exposed wood can get splintery from constant wet/dry cycles without good treatment. I have taken to using indoor/outdoor carpeting over my cheap decking for swimmers. Good decking will make a big difference. Consider removable decking "panels" for easy maintenance.

If I were you, and you are physically able, consider doing the work yourself. Putting together a deck or a dock is pretty simple, and if you screw up, you can always tear down and fix it. You can put in a pretty darned good dock for $1K that will make mine look like a rotted log. Also 84 Lumber carries that marine rated lumber, and will deliver.

Someone posted a link to a site that sells dock and deck specific metal hardware. Pivot joints and the like. Consider a half-fixed, half floating dock to follow water levels if you think your pond level will fluctuate with dry summers. I wish I had, and I still might add a floater to mine.

we still use them in san antonio tx. Anyways just wanted to help you out if the poles have a black tar on them I wouldn't use them in your pond,every utility is different. I work for the largest municipal owned electric and gas utility company in the us

telephone poles

Could not secure telephone poles quick enough as my water level is rising. Signed with a contractor that has experience ( not the first quote ) $4400 for a 5x12 section that will go out to a 12x12 section in deeper water. 6x6 post on the deeper section. He told me that where the post run into problems is where the water level fluctuates and sun hits , anything underwater will last a long long time. He estimated that I might need to replace some post in 20-25 years using the pressure treated.

For the walkway I was going to have the post come up 3ft or so and have a rope along it on both sides? Anyone else do this? I guess if I don't like it I can always cut them back to flush with the decking.

Was curious if anyone uses any type of solar lights on their dock , any you recommend?

I have one solar light by my little dock. You can get them inexpensively at Walmart. Mine has lasted a year so far. I think the rope is a good idea. Bore holes and use two ropes if you have small children; one high and one low.

Go with your idea of rope along both sides,and John is right on the money with two ropes.It will make a difference with little kids.

I made my dock u-shaped and roofed it. You're close to the ohio river and may be able to find used barge rope in large diameters that will safely hold someone who leans/falls into it. I had found some almost an 1-1/2" that worked well for many yrs.

Any of the marinas or B&B Riverboats should be able to help you or steer you in the right direction.

Good luck

Almost finished product if it shows. Still need the rope, manila 1.5" , going to do two ropes like suggested.

Thanks for the help and recommendations.

I think the size of it worked out well for my 1/2-3/4 acre pond. 12x5 walkway out to 12x12 platform.

nice beastman

Docks change everything on a pond, enjoy!