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Welcome to PBF Keifer!

I suggest you send a Private Message (PM) to Teehjaeh57 here on the forum. Super nice guy, always willing to help folks and the resident expert on Soil-Floc. If you don't know how to send a PM just click on his name a few post back and send a Private message will pop up as an option.

Good Luck and again welcome!

Bill D.

Last edited by Bill D.; 05/21/17 07:59 PM.

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Sad weekend as I found myself mowing my pond, yes that's right the water level is at an all time low, so much so that I had to mow it. The pond is 30-40 yrs old, 1/2 acre surrounded by trees. I've owned the property two years and have watched the water level fluctuate drastically. Lucky for me we were getting rain pretty regularly, so it hadn't been that bad although I knew it was losing water at a pretty high rate. As of last summer we've been in somewhat of a drought. All the heavy rains keep missing us. The water level has hit an all time low and now I'm wondering what can I do to "fix" it. Is this a situation where I have to dig out the pond and add clay? Or Would Soil-Floc work here? As the water has drained I can see the pond was dug with three deeper pools separated by flat ridges. The water in all three pools seem to lower at the same rate which tells me the water is seeping into the ground. The shallowest pool is only a foot deep as of today. Following are some photos. One is from a month ago and the second is the freshly mowed pond. Any thoughts?





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Originally Posted By: Bill D.
Welcome to PBF Keifer!

I suggest you send a Private Message (PM) to Teehjaeh57 here on the forum. Super nice guy, always willing to help folks and the resident expert on Soil-Floc. If you don't know how to send a PM just click on his name a few post back and send a Private message will pop up as an option.

Good Luck and again welcome!

Bill D.


Thanks Bill - reaching out to Keifer now. Thank you for supporting Pond Boss partners!!

TJ


Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau

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Originally Posted By: L's Pond
Sad weekend as I found myself mowing my pond, yes that's right the water level is at an all time low, so much so that I had to mow it. The pond is 30-40 yrs old, 1/2 acre surrounded by trees. I've owned the property two years and have watched the water level fluctuate drastically. Lucky for me we were getting rain pretty regularly, so it hadn't been that bad although I knew it was losing water at a pretty high rate. As of last summer we've been in somewhat of a drought. All the heavy rains keep missing us. The water level has hit an all time low and now I'm wondering what can I do to "fix" it. Is this a situation where I have to dig out the pond and add clay? Or Would Soil-Floc work here? As the water has drained I can see the pond was dug with three deeper pools separated by flat ridges. The water in all three pools seem to lower at the same rate which tells me the water is seeping into the ground. The shallowest pool is only a foot deep as of today. Following are some photos. One is from a month ago and the second is the freshly mowed pond. Any thoughts?






Hi, feel free to reach out and can help with some direction whether it's re-engineering, liner, or polymer application. Happy to help!

TJ


Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau

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Do you see tree roots in the pond? They are thirsty too! If the trees are pulling water from the pond, I don't think Soil-Floc will stop them. You may wish to "thin the herd" a little of the trees surrounding the pond to lower their consumption. Target the broad-leaved deciduous before targeting pines. Maples and willows are the worst offenders with "drinking" water.

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Originally Posted By: liquidsquid
Do you see tree roots in the pond? They are thirsty too! If the trees are pulling water from the pond, I don't think Soil-Floc will stop them. You may wish to "thin the herd" a little of the trees surrounding the pond to lower their consumption. Target the broad-leaved deciduous before targeting pines. Maples and willows are the worst offenders with "drinking" water.


I've got 100 yr old, oaks, hickories, and maples right up to the edge of my pond. I'm sure they have a negative effect on the water level, as well as dumping in millions of leaves every fall, but they are nice to look at, and I can always find a shady spot to float, no matter what time of day, or year.
FYI, I followed CC's plan for putting down SF. It's a great way to keep track of where you've been, and how even your application is. The SF slowed down my leak by 50%. I think if I was doing it over, I would double the application rate. I threw a red plastic cup of A & B, plus a cup of bentonite to help it sink, for every 4' of distance covered.


9 yr old pond, 1 ac, 15' deep.
RES, YP, GS, FHM (no longer), HBG (going away), SMB, and HSB (only one seen in 5 yrs) Restocked HSB (2020) Have seen one of these.
I think that's about all I should put in my little pond.
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Have a small pond that leaks into the sand layer just above the chalk layer at the bottom. How much Soilfloc should I use to stop the water from draining? How to apply it?
Pond dimensions:
[img]https://goo.gl/A1k3EV[/img]
Pond Photo:
[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/8DWRD8fiPc2SuguT8[/img]

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Feel free to contact me anytime happy to help try and outline some solutions for you.

Tj@hudlandmgmt.com


Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau

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Came across this older thread and was curious about some things. Would this work better than adding alum & lime for clarity? Is the price close? Seems like this could help keep the cloudiness down in the long run. Since it creates kind of a shell. I have never used either but wanting to try something this summer if I can swing it in the budget.


The people who say I can't do it can just sit the @^#% down and watch me. Friends call me Rusto I also subscribe to pond boss mag. http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=504716#Post504716
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Yes the linear polymer acts as a flocculant and binds suspended clay particles and drops to pond basin. It's used often to clear ponds without the worry of affecting PH like Alum does. Alum might be significantly cheaper though - one would have to perform research and compare before starting project.


Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau

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Do you a know price per acre ratio? I had never thought of a sealer being a possible cure for my cloudiness before.


The people who say I can't do it can just sit the @^#% down and watch me. Friends call me Rusto I also subscribe to pond boss mag. http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=504716#Post504716
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Until you remove fish species responsible for turbidity you will only be wasting time, money and effort on a temporary solution. If you want to talk sometime happy to connect. Email me anytime


Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau

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Man TJ way to burst my bubble. That's means I cant have my cake and eat it too. Truth hurts sometimes.


The people who say I can't do it can just sit the @^#% down and watch me. Friends call me Rusto I also subscribe to pond boss mag. http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=504716#Post504716
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Have ya got Cats in there RS??
Figure about 150$ per ac ft for alum/hyd lime per Rex's Rate/acre for product. Mine was about 130/ac ft last year.

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I sure do. Put in 100 eleven years ago when I had it dug. Only a out 5 - 10 left. Going to have a fry this summer and clean the rest out.


The people who say I can't do it can just sit the @^#% down and watch me. Friends call me Rusto I also subscribe to pond boss mag. http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=504716#Post504716
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That will probably help things settle out some. The vis subdues the normal process so it'll take some time for changes to take place. This is the part I have trouble with but "be patient".

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Hospitals are 4 patient. Lol. I live with 5 females. Patiencs I have learned. But in the ponds case I might be able to help it out. 1st and 2nd things are get some vegetation going. When spring hits I'm going to be in the market for some plants if anyone has some 4 sale reasonable. Next thing is removing the cats. Iv got alot time invested in them. So I'm eating them if they like it or not. Then hopefully those 2 things help out. If results are not what I'm wanting then going chemical warfare on it.

Last edited by RStringer; 08/21/20 08:46 AM.

The people who say I can't do it can just sit the @^#% down and watch me. Friends call me Rusto I also subscribe to pond boss mag. http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=504716#Post504716
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Is this something I should apply to a newly built pond?


Im going to ask a lot of questions, but only because I'm clueless


5-20 Acres in Florida. Bass/Tilapia/Bowfin/Gator
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Originally Posted by CityDad
Is this something I should apply to a newly built pond?

It depends. How well do you think your pond bottom (and sides) are sealed?


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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Polymer used during pond construction has resulted in my best results so far the few times I've had the opportunity to use it during construction/pond liner repair. If you experience suspect material during excavation [sand, gravel, shale, rock, low plasticity or sandy/rocky clay] polymer can be applied directly to the pond basin and sidewalls to help ensure a seal. I've also used it as a spot treatment over gravel veins and compacted 6" lifts of high plasticity clay over those areas. In a pond losing 3"+ daily for 18 months I was amazed it sealed like a drum after a quick spot treatment. I'll never build a pond again without have a pallet of polymer on hand as an insurance policy - will save tens of thousands in irrigation and repairs down the road. I tend to learn my lessons the hard way, but once they're learned, I don't forget!


Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau

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TJ, I'm curious, what is the application rate or technique when you are applying directly to the soil instead of broadcasting on water? How do you get an even spread on the soil and how can the product congeal or carry particles into the holes in the ground if it goes on dry?

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Same formula using drop spreader - 2-4 oz per 10 sq ft. I do the math and figure out the correct spreader setting if applying to entire basin. If one is spot treating I disregard the formula and apply heavy since I'm focused on a much smaller area and using significantly less. I don't want to take a chance on gravel/sand veins so I really nuke it then plate with high plasticity clay in 6" lifts. The localized treatment has been very effective for me so far, but the trick is having a dry basin and access to the problem areas - 99% of issues are realized following construction and deal with full ponds which inhibit our ability to identify suspect material areas and localize the treatment.


Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau

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