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I have more than a few questions and would love to learn more about shallow northern hemisphere water aeration. Lets assume for this discussion, a shallow body of water is 6' or less in max depth and .1 acre in total surface area.

IME here in MN, I can sustain and grow a fish population in a shallow body of water without aeration for all months prior to freeze up. Once ice over, the population sustains for a certain amount of time and then perishes before the ice cover is melted off. Very basic and simple explanation to the demise of the fish;

Little to zero light thru the ice and snow cover = little to zero 02 production
AND
Toxic gasses, to fish, that need to escape from the water can not

If I apply a bottom diffuser aerator or any aerator that maintains open water of a certain size, both of the above limitations are removed and the fish sustain through the ice covered months.

Here is my first discussion question:
1. Assuming my experiences are correct; what are the benefits, if any, to aerating a shallow pond, here in MN, in the summer months?
2. In a shallow pond, how does the rule of 1X-2X turns per day apply, if at all?

I am really trying to learn why certain things are recommended or done. Pure science and empirical data that would apply to this situation not just because it’s “sold” a certain way. The more I dig the less I seem to know! blush

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MNFISH

Those are good questions! Most experts out here will tell you in water 6 foot or less you pretty much have a good D.O. without air in your pond. Like you said though It would prove very useful to you in the winter for sure! I would put it in about 2 to 3 foot of water.

Lets see I am no expert by any means but here is my 2 cents.

Question 1.

Pros It should help keep your pond bottom from getting to mucky
It would ensure you have enough D.O. in your pond if you start to get to many fish or over populate for some reason it could save them fish instead of them ending up dead.

Cons It might stir your water up pretty bad because of how shallow it is.
Your electric bill and keeping up with your equipment.

Question 2
If you have an area that is 6 foot I would think turn over would still be that same thing just maybe not as important because of how shallow your pond is. Just like my pond is 8 feet deep so most of my pond has decent D.O. in it but by having that air in the deepest part makes sure I have good D.O. everywhere. If I don't have complete turn over in a day I am not quite as concerned. Now if most of my pond was average 8 to 10 feet and up to 20 feet then I would be concerned much more about turn over.

And keep in mind I may be way off base here like I said I am no expert but this is what I have done in my 1 acre pond for 5 years now and it's been perfect, but every pond is different for sure! Lets see what other have to say. I have no problem with them correcting me that's how I learn also!! smile

RC

Last edited by RC51; 09/24/14 02:15 PM.

The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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In a shallow pond such as yours and 6ft in the north it will have "weak" stratification whenever it forms. Once stratified the amount of eutrophication will determine how fast the DO on the bottom will be lost or strongly decreased to where it becomes temporarily anaerobic. Water clarity and light penetration also play a big role here with amount of DO on the bottom. Summer aeration for a short period each day or twice a day for 1 hr each time would insure minimal or no stratification during summer.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 10/01/14 04:28 PM.

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I would agree with Bill, I think there would be some weak stratification in a 6 foot deep pond which could lead to anaerobic conditions without aeration. I know from some of your other posts you mentioned that these are lowland ponds you are dealing with so I am guessing the wind isn't really going to cause realiable turn over of the water.

The only real way to know is to do some water testing. I finally bought myself a D.O. meter because it is the only way to really know what is going on. I had the same kinds of questions and I couldn't ever get a clear answer because every situation is different. The D.O. meters are expensive but they do provide the information needed to answer your question. If you were able to monitor the D.O levels in your pond at various depths throughout the summer you could make an educated decision on whether or not it was really necessary.

Another more simple way is to just check temperature at two foot increments until you get to the bottom and try and make some decisions based on temperature differences. If the difference is high, you have stratification.

Obviously you'd have to turn off your aeration after ice out next year to test any of this.

Every pond is a bit different, so the water clarity, nutrients, vegetation at various depths, etc. all play a part.

If you do decide to get a D.O. meter, I bought a Hach and I highly recommend them. They are very easy to use, and also offer various probes that work with the unit, so that you can check PH and MV as well.

Mike


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