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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1
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OP
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1 |
Not sure if this is the right forum to post this in, but I appreciate any help or direction anyone may be able to offer. I own a 19th century Greek Revival former woolen mill located in Southern RI, and have been in the process of restoring it over the past few years. There's a dam, gatehouse, and associated sluiceway on the property, and one of the nagging issues is that before I purchased the property, a section of the sluiceway was rebuilt with granite masonary walls that leak quite badly. Overview of the section: http://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1094.JPGhttp://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1110.JPGInterior: http://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1095.JPGhttp://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1096.JPGhttp://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1097.JPGhttp://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1101.JPGhttp://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1103.JPGExterior: http://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1098.JPGhttp://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1099.JPGhttp://thunberg.com/palisades/sluiceway/IMG_1100.JPGNote that I'm currently diverting water upstream and the sluiceway is currently 2-3' below normal level, as can be seen by the algae line. When the water level is normal, there's enough water getting through, or under, that the parking lot has a steady stream in it, which can be seen here via Google Maps: https://maps.google.com/?ll=41.450817,-71.49598&spn=0.001044,0.001635&t=h&z=20 I've talked to quite a few people about this and would like some additional input on the following options as I'm most likely missing something: 1. Rebuild the wall using hydraulic mortar, as apparently this wasn't used in the original construction. 2. Chip out the interior mortar, and repoint with hydraulic mortar. 3. Spray the interior of the wall with a dark gunite. 4. Varying forms of granite / masonary sealer. I'm not entirely concerned with cost, more doing it right in the most watertight and permanent way possible so that this isn't an ongoing maintenance issue. Thoughts?
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282 |
Think this looks like a job for a mason or engineer with concrete experience/knowledge. The water does not seem like it could get through the granite, so it is the joints that are in question. As a non expert, it sounds like cracks since unsealed concrete tamks don't lose that much water in my limited experience. A liner (or coating inside) may be the best option. I'll send a note to my brother who is a mason and see what he says.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,051 Likes: 277
Moderator Lunker
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Moderator Lunker
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,051 Likes: 277 |
Welcome to Pond Boss. This is entirely over my head.
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.
Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282 |
My brother did not suggest any solutions. Adding a wire or rebar lattice and spraying a gunite liner might work. Very cool place!
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 414
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 414 |
Hi thunberg I would send a mail to one/any of the staff/persons listed under Technics and Maintenance here http://www.gotakanal.se/en/artiklar/Kontakt/Contact-AB-Gota-kanalbolag/They do this kind of work for a living, and in a excelent way, so they would be able to tell you precicly what to do, and not to do, for a permanent fix. Nice place you got there cheers
PAUL 
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