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Joined: Jun 2010
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OP
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Naturally my water level has dropped around 2 ft this summer and has left the shoreline exposed. Now would be a good time to go back and lay some rock (rip rap?) along the edges.
How is the best way to do this where 1) you control the weeds and cattails from coming up and 2) keep the rocks from just sliding down deeper in the pond.
Thoughts? Ideas? Advice?
Thanks~!
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 573 Likes: 3
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: May 2009
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When I had my pond re-dug they cut a 6" ledge into the shoreline with a backhoe to make a shelf to hold the rocks (see picture below). A 4 oz. non woven landscape fabric was put down and cobblestones on top of that. The fabric is like a felt that's incredibly strong and rated to last 20+ years if it's covered with 6" of the sized stone that I have. My slope is 3:1 all the way around my pond and the rocks are staying in place nicely. Here's an old thread with pictures that may help: http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=177298 There's a video in that thread too but I don't think it's available anymore (maybe PM the poster). [img:center] [/img]
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Joined: Jun 2010
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Well I no edge at this point, so could i use chicken wire to hold them up or just pound them in the bank?
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 329
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Joined: Feb 2011
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Bossone, when shoring up up a steep grade for customers we use one of two methods....First you can take and lay your first row of the biggest rocks out in a line at the deepest point you want them. You may have to seat a few of them to keep them from rolling. After you have done this get some quick crete, mix it up in five gallon buckets , and pour on both the upside hill and the down hill side of the rocks. usually every so often we'll dig a small hole for the Q.C. to fill and act as an anchor after it hardens. Once this is set up you can put rocks and/or gravel against this up to the highest point you want. OR We will cut a bunch of rebar stakes two to three foot long and pound them in to the bank. If you do this every six inches or so then they will hold your bigger rocks in place and you can use this as a back stop for the rest of the rocks. Either way works. The only issue is if you have a solid enough bank and enough clay for option two.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,488 Likes: 2
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
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Unless large rocks are readily available (and free), a cheaper and more efficient means of stabilizing a shoreline might entail the use of cement-bags, laid flat/end-to-end in a staggered pattern - with rebar driven vertically through the lowest row of bags to secure their position. After they're positioned, hose the bags down with water - or simply wait for rain to do the job (not applicable in TX ). After the cement cures, the paper bags will slowly deteriorate - or, use a butane-torch for faster results. I've seen similar bulkhead projects that turned out very nicely.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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Hmm sounds more expensive, but I've not checked into what the rocks will cost. Here is my shoreline (one side of it)
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,105
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Kelly that looks really nice. I'll keep that in the back of my head. Is that sand based concrete or gravel like a sackcreat? Would lime leaching from the concrete hurt the fish?
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,488 Likes: 2
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,488 Likes: 2 |
Hmm sounds more expensive, but I've not checked into what the rocks will cost. Might be different for your area, but the use of suitably sized rocks (collected, loaded, transported, deposited and properly positioned) would cost a bundle down here. Bagged concrete is readily available in palletized quantities, and is relatively easy to haul, unload and place along the exposed shoreline. Is that sand based concrete or gravel like a sackcreat? Would lime leaching from the concrete hurt the fish? Not sure John, but I'd guess a sand-mix concrete. Also not sure about the type of lime used in concrete (is it hydrated lime?), but I certainly don't think any potential leachate would affect resident fish. Ag lime is commonly used in many areas to increase pond-water alkalinity.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 529
Fingerling
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Fingerling
Joined: Apr 2010
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Good idea, Kelly.
John: Keep in mind that stone and/or concrete is permanent. You won't be able to do much with the shoreline thereafter.
Last edited by Sniper; 08/30/11 06:30 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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It's pretty neat and looks good. Thanks for that idea.
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