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#262644 06/22/11 12:35 PM
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I posted this on the thread titled "Alum kicks clay butt", but decided to start a thread. In preparation to use alum in my pond, I bought a pool test kit today, and the ph tested above the 8.2 max in the kit. I made a secchi disk and measured 18 inches of visibility. I also filled a quart jar with pond water to observe it for a few days. My pond is just shy of 3/4 of an acre, with an average depth of 6'. Lastly, I'm in the process of locating a local supplier of alum. Based on the info I provided, is it possible to determine how much alum I'll need? If I need to treat a gallon of water to see how much alum, where do I buy a very small quantity to test with? (I'm planning on monitoring my ph during the application and having lime standing by in case I need it) Also, I'm wondering if I'm wasting my time doing this due to the high rate of turnover in my pond. When we get a big storm, I get a LOT of water coming in and going out. This usually happens about twice a year. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me!





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I also tested my Pond with a kit and everything came out fine expect for the PH it was 8. I will be watching this thread for more info.

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Is the influx of water turbid when it enters the pond?


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esshup #262659 06/22/11 01:44 PM
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Here's what it looks like as it enters during a big storm.



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To me that particular picture looks like more tannins than suspended solids (i.e. clay).


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esshup #262665 06/22/11 02:07 PM
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I would have to agree with you. While I didn't know what was causing the color, I didn't think it was suspended solids. Do you think the sheer volume of water entering and leaving the pond make treating with alum useless?

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Tom where is all that water coming from, the St. Lawrence, or field runoff?



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That is a lot of water input and flushing for the 0.75 ac pond. If the incoming water is usually that color or darker, IMO an alum treatment would only last until the next major influx of water. Does the pond have submerged vegetation. Vegetation may help mimimize the turbidity. Abundant vegetation tends to have that affect on suspended solids.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 06/22/11 07:26 PM.

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Originally Posted By: adirondack pond
Tom where is all that water coming from, the St. Lawrence, or field runoff?


It's coming from fields, woods, and swamps. It's on it's way to the St. Lawrence.

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Originally Posted By: Bill Cody
That is a lot of water input and flushing for the 0.75 ac pond. If the incoming water is usually that color or darker, IMO an alum treatment would only last until the next major influx of water. Does the pond have submerged vegetation. Vegetation may help mimimize the turbidity. Abundant vegetation tends to have that affect on suspended solids.


I have a feeling your opinion is probably correct. I'm hoping some of the other experts see this and give their opinions too. As far as submerged vegetation, there is some, but it's not abundant.

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Outdoorsman, I would refuse to treat your pond with Alum if I were asked...it would be of no use for you...First, I seen NO colloidal clay in your water (merely stained water) and second, the high inflow of water would flush the alum out.

IMO, yes, an alum treatment would be a complete waste of time and money on your part.

Further, any time you treat a BOW with Alum, Add an additional amount of HYDRATED lime seperate of the alum, but at the same time for the safety in preventing a fish kill...the Hydrated Lime cost is tiny compared to the cost and time involved killing off, then replacing a mature fish population.

I will be documenting the clearing of two area ponds in the next couple weeks or so. One will also include removing large amounts of sediment prior to the Alum treatment.



Rainman #262724 06/23/11 06:49 AM
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I appreciate the responses and opinions. I'm glad I asked you guys before going out and buying supplies! I guess the saying "it is what it is" applies here and I'll have to live with the limited visibility.


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