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Bluegillerkiller #247131 02/02/11 12:40 PM
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Ok, whats the best way to improve the water quality? I'm buying a test kit to the test the water and will show you gus the results. I was thinking, maybe I could make a seine to filter what comes in and out of the drains, I really do not know what to do to improve the water quality, When it rains is when I think the pond is hurt the most because thats the time when stuff is coming in and out of the pond through the drain. On the topic of the weed issues, besides removing the cattails, what else do you recomend I should look into doing?

boyscout123 #247135 02/02/11 12:47 PM
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Identify your weeds by taking pics and comparing to past post see how they were dealt with then.. Usually herbicide will control your weeds. As far as water quality aeration, chemicals also look through the archives to see how people have improved there ponds in the past. Thats the thing thats great about this site, your not the first person to have this problem or have there problem answered on this site, so just check into it on the site to find out how to solve it.. then when theres questions directly related to your pond maybe we can help better..


I believe in catch and release. I catch then release to the grease..

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Bluegillerkiller #247144 02/02/11 02:08 PM
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A few random suggestions, in no particular order:
- ID the dominant and nuisance plant species within and bordering the pond. Determine which species are desirable and those that should be managed (reduced) through manual/mechanical or chemical means.
- Outline the specific needs and plans for fishery habitat enhancements based on the desired species and objectives, as well as for waterfowl and other wildlife.
- Consider manual thinning of willows(?) and other non-essential trees around the pond's perimeter, since they will otherwise pull large amounts of water from the pond during the summer through transpiration. Leaving several trees for shade/aesthetics is fine. Any shoreline trees that are removed should be recycled into fish-habitat.
- Prepare a sponsorship solicitation-flier to distribute in person, door-to-door (in uniform, of course), throughout the benefitted neighborhood - and even to adjacent businesses. Promote the home-value and kid-activity benefits of this enhanced amenity. Commit to publically recognizing those who financially support your project. Hosting a post-completion hot-dog cookout would provide an opportune time to do so, and might also foster community initiative/involvement and adoption for further upgrades (picnic tables, pavillions, etc).
- Get your troop-buddies fired up to assist with this project, since you'll likely need a fair amount of labor (make sure it is well organized in advance of scheduled work-days).

Kelly Duffie #247165 02/02/11 05:54 PM
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Ok, I did some research on the site and I have a question, Would cutrine-plus get rid of the green stuff that comes to the surface of the pond during the summer, how do I know if that is good for the pond?

boyscout123 #247172 02/02/11 06:48 PM
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That "green stuff" can be one of many things. It might be algae, or it could be a type of plant - or, it could be a combination. I've learned never to make assumptions.
More than likely, you're referring to a type of filamentous algae (many species exist).

However, duckweed and/or watermeal also fit the description of "green stuff".

Basically, if the "green stuff" is a type of filamentous algae, odds are that CUTRINE PLUS will help keep it in check with periodic treatments. But, nothing (legal) will get rid of it (permanently or long-term).
Unless you have some pictures of the green stuff from last summer; or unless you can positively ID it from these or other pictures, we'll need to wait and see exactly you're dealing with before a management approach may be suggested (which might include other options besides or in addition to chemical treatments).

Kelly Duffie #247186 02/02/11 09:00 PM
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Kelly, you have an awesome plant photo collection!

I wish the taxpayer supported websites had even a tenth as good of quality shots!



Rainman #247190 02/02/11 09:10 PM
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Thanks Rainman. Fortunately, my hobies complement my livelihood.
Btw - I began shrinking and "tagging" my pics when several of 'em mysteriously appeared on others' websites (some of which were competitors). Grrr!

Kelly Duffie #247193 02/02/11 09:20 PM
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Copyright infringement without a doubt...but I can hardly blame them. I'd gladly pay you for a set of identification pictures! For some reason, I just cant remember what the different plants look like.



Rainman #247216 02/03/11 05:55 AM
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By the looks of the pictures, I can tell that it is a mixture of duckweed and watermeal.

boyscout123 #247279 02/03/11 06:50 PM
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Assuming you're correct, the next step is to determine if any desireable plants exist within the pond. If so, the ideal approach would target only the invasive/undesirable species without affecting the well behaved plants.

Kelly Duffie #247287 02/03/11 08:41 PM
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Ok, I have attached a photo of the type of grass that I WANT to stay in the pond. I guess I could say its well behaved, its spread throughout the pond and gets real thick, but I catch nice bass flipping jigs into it and catch bass by using a frog over it. I don'yt know how much is a good amount to have, I would like to still have some in the pond. Also, who exactly do I need to talk with at the MD DNR aboit the electro shocking survey..........

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Elodea.jpg
Last edited by boyscout123; 02/03/11 08:45 PM.
boyscout123 #247302 02/03/11 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted By: boyscout123
it spread throughout the pond and gets real thick

That phrase usually doesn't describe a well behaved aquatic plant. I generally agree with many fishery biologists who say that 15-40% plant-coverage is the ideal range; although it varies with a lake's design, the types of plant(s) and the species of fish-inhabitants.
For urban "fishing ponds", alternating areas of open and vegetated shoreline would well serve both the fish and fishermen. But, a submerged plant like elodea doesn't always represent the best type of vegetation since it often expands far beyond the desired level of coverage. Long-leaf Pondweed would be a preferable specie, since reduced sunlight-penetration in deeper water tends to restrict its growth to shallow perimeters.
Altering the pond's established plant population may fall beyond the scope and feasibility of your project. But, it might be something to consider in the long-term; especially if a herbicide treatment that targets duckweed & watermeal might also curtail the elodea and allow the subsequent introduction and establishment of long-leaf pondweed.
I may be jumping ahead prematurely, since I don't know the pond's depth-profile - which affects where and how various aquatic plants will grow. A bathymentric assessment (basic diagram shown below) of the pond's depths would yield valuable information for considering both plant-management and structure-placement options. Are you in any position to secure such information (with appropriate assistance & supervison)?


Kelly Duffie #247304 02/04/11 05:50 AM
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Well, the deepest the pond gets is about 6 feet deep in the middle and towards the spillway and other than that the shallow flats are between 1 and two feet deep, so really anywhere in the pond can be 1 to 6 feet deep.

boyscout123 #247350 02/04/11 01:26 PM
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This graphic is probably overkill for a relatively small pond. But, it might lend some spice to your project's documentation. (Plus, I needed to test a method for laying a grid over a pond's outline.)

It sounds like much of the pond is prone to expansive plant-growth during the summer due to the nature of its depth-design and primary function. Also, since your budget is limited and frequent water-transitions are likely (rainfall run-off), the most cost-effective herbicide treatments would prove challenging. Manual thinning of the elodeo might be the best option. But, don't let it get too far ahead of you before using a rope and grapple-hook.

Kelly Duffie #247366 02/04/11 03:22 PM
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Kelly you are right on ther money, In the summer without rain the elodea and duckweed, mostly the elodea gets thick rain when it doesn't rain and the water drops, but them is completely gone for 2 to 3 days after the rain, then grows back. How do you get rid of elodea manually, that might make for a really good part of my project. By the way thanks for the drawings and pics, I'm going to use themin my project presentation. I do wamt to keep some of it for the bass to get up under, but I would really want the elodea on the shallow flats to be gone, I don't mind it in the deeper water so much. By the way, how do I do a bathymentric assesment? Who should i talk too? I want to, if possible scatter the structure throughout the shallow and deep parts of the pond if appropriate.

boyscout123 #247423 02/05/11 09:21 AM
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Ok, I did the relative weight measurement for the one bass I caught in the pond, the 3.24 pounder I was talking about earlier that was 18 inches long, and from the chart an 18 inch bass should weigh 3.2 pounds.

boyscout123 #247425 02/05/11 09:24 AM
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Just over 100%. See if all sizes/lengths are near 100%.

RW charts from the aechives.

http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=160456#Post160456

Last edited by ewest; 02/05/11 09:26 AM.















ewest #247642 02/07/11 05:58 PM
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Should I install fish feeders, that are solar powered

boyscout123 #247644 02/07/11 06:09 PM
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Your talking big money.. And they could be vandalized or stolen..


I believe in catch and release. I catch then release to the grease..

BG. CSBG. LMB. HSB. RES.

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Bluegillerkiller #247652 02/07/11 07:57 PM
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Ok, I was thinking of buying this one with the grant money from the Chesapeake bay foundation: http://www.moultriefeeders.com/productdetail.aspx?id=mfh-ps1

boyscout123 #247654 02/07/11 08:25 PM
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I shoulda said they WILL be vandalized and stolen. I dont think feeders have a place on public properties thats my opinion. I would spend the money in better places..


I believe in catch and release. I catch then release to the grease..

BG. CSBG. LMB. HSB. RES.

[Linked Image from i90.photobucket.com]
Bluegillerkiller #247976 02/11/11 09:28 AM
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I spoke to my scout master last night and he is totally on board with my project and thinks it is perfect.

boyscout123 #247991 02/11/11 10:56 AM
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Do a budget for what you intend to do. Know what you hope to accomplish and measure the results during the plan. You do realize that feeding is not an on and off matter. Once you start a feeding program it needs to be continued or the increase in fish mass has to be removed (harvest or predation)in order to avoid starving fish (un-balanced fishery).
















ewest #248053 02/12/11 07:00 PM
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This is the response I got from the association about the ponds:

Dear PJ,

Your plans sound very interesting and ambitious. The problem I see is that the Maryland National Capital Parks and Planning Commission (MNCPPC), which owns the park and ponds, would likely be reluctant to let you proceed with what you propose. There are all kinds of regulations and agencies that control how stormwater management is handled, given that the pond and creek drain into the Pautuxent watershed. This is part of our problem with the Duck Pond engineering. All I can suggest is that you write up a brief proposal, which I can pass along to the MNCPPC administration. They would have to give official approval before you could even think of applying for a grant.

Dennis Twombly
President, OMCA



Last edited by boyscout123; 02/12/11 07:01 PM.
boyscout123 #248054 02/12/11 07:04 PM
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Can you guys help me with my proposal?

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